Either this weekend or next weekend I'm going to be going through the brakes on my 53 Buick, I "know" how to do it, but have never done it before, so does anyone have any tips? tricks? The kind of stuff you learn from doing. I will be rebuilding the master cylinder, rebuilding or replacing all wheel cylinders and doing new lines, My knowledge is limited to replacing hoses and shoes so any tips pertaining to rebuilding hydraulics and making hardlines are welcome.
Posting a reply here, just to keep track of this post... rebuilding the brakes on my '53 Olds here too, would love to hear what the "experts" have to say
One tip: if you're not familiar with the brake system you're working on, take apart one side at a time so you can look at the other side for a guide when reassembling. I've had more than one guy call me after he ripped apart both sides, and then couldn't remember in what order all of the pieces went back on. This sounds elementary to someone that's rebuilt several brake systems, but to the novice, it may be complicated.
I rebuilt the brake system on my '36 REO. Nothing to it. New wheel cylinders were 100.00 @, It scared the crap out of me to think to rebuild the wheel cylinders, I bought the kits for 10 @. a BIG socket and a smaller socket and my vice to press out the pistons. Bought a nice hone, reamed them out, put everything back. I didn't rebuild the master, but took it apart and cleaned it up. I bought a one man bleeder. Start bleeding from the furthest wheel.
all good advice so far. make sure you check the bore of the wheel cylinders for wear and pitting..if they are too bad honing and a kit won't do it , they'll just leak. to hone them you need a wheel cylinder hone , about $10 consider new wheel cyllinders...i see napa lists them for you car: left front is up7536 $38.49 , right front is up7537 $38.49 , left rear is up13387 $11.49 , right rear is up13388 $11.49 . kits are: front is up36 $3.69 , rear is up21 $3.69...all they list is a kit for the MC..up3 $14.99 as for replacing steel lines , auto part stores sell brake lines preformed with the flairs in many different lenghts...try to use these to save time and money , you can reroute them slightly if one length is too long or short . if you need to cut and reflair a line , you will need the tools ...a tubing cutter and a double flairing kit. a good kit will cost you at least $35-$40 . read the instructions in the kit to see how to do it and practice on scrap pieces until you get the hang of it...flairing brake lines properly without leaks is a skill , maybe someone around your area could help you out with it . not trying to scare you , you can do it good luck
forgot to mention , if you need to bend a brake line...you can get a cheap bender for them for about $10. they don't work as good as the top dollar pro ones , but will do the job. you can also bend them by hand...just take your time and be carefull not to kink them..if you do , it is junk
I talked to the guy at Napa yesterday, he's got everything I need at his local wharehouse except the rear center brake hose which he has to order, and rear brake shoes which he couldn't find in the book, so I'll have to go to Advance, where I will be asked by a nosepicking import tuner why I dont just convert to disks.
Napa # 197 12 x 2 1/4 just a note about bending lines....support the inside radius of the bend. you can do this with a socket, around the light pole outside the house....fencepost, etc...get the idea. Go slow, dont try to make the bend all at once, hard to explain, but after ya screw up a few pieces..you'll get the idea
Save the old lines for templates! Don't destroy them. This will save you a ton of time! Don't ask how I know... For wierd angles and bends, figure out the bends on a piece of straightened out coathanger and then you can use it as a template. Then go and bend away on the real stuff. I do this at least twice every time I re-plumb a car: I forget to put the nut on the line before I flare it, and I have to cut the flare off and do it again. Take a sharpie with you under the car and use it to put a little dot on the line where you need to bend it. It's faster than using a tape measure. Then you can go to the bench and make your bends. Be sure not to route brake lines close to exhaust or other heat sources. Brake fluid doesn't work when it gets really hot. Make sure the lines are protected from crimping or rubbing (you'd think this was obvious). Don't cross them under the frame at any point. You can use a piece of rubber fuel or trans line sliced lengthwise as a sheath to safeguard your lines at any pont where they may be in danger of rubbing on any metal parts.
also, normal brake fluid washes off with water....and it eats paint...keep this in mind when it's going everywhere when you pull the lines off
i use air to push the pistons out of the wheel cylinders when rebuilding is possible. if needed push them in a little first, and clean the edge of cylinder first. very little air is needed, and cover with a rag first to keep the parts and fluid from flying everywhere.
If a guy wants to use his old hardlines, what can be done to "flush" them out before installing all the new components??
if they just have brake fluid in them, use water to rinse them out. You could try spraying some brake cleaner thru them somehow after that, and blow them out with air.
You can get short lengths of braided flexible brake hoses with threaded ends already on them at some speed shops. Pretty good chance you can find one to make work. DEFINATELY replace all rubber hoses. Even when they aren't leaking, they can break down internally and plug up acting like a one way valve. Fluid will go to the cylinder but not come out causing a dragging or locked up wheel. I wouldn't bother with rebuilding the stock MC. Go with a dual pot MC. All you need to do is split the front and rear circuits. Takes some brass fittings, a little bending and flaring. Nothing you wouldn't be doing already. Many posts about the dangers of the old single pot MC's have been covered before. You'll need to find out the bore diameter on your MC and compare it with another dual pot MC from another kind of car. Motor's manuals list the MC bores. I have as late as a 1969 manual so if you can find out what your bore diameter is, I can tell you what comparable MC's have the same bore. Chances are it will even be cheaper and easier to find a replacement if it ever needs replacement.
I'd go with new cylinders also. It's really not that much more in cost. The first thing I do when replacing steel lines is take a small tape and measure each line while still in place on the car to get the required length as close as possible. You could use a string like they do when they measure a snake. A good parts house will have many different lengths to match up. I add 2" and try to find somethimg close to that. It's a lot easier to use up an extra 2" than it is to try to stretch one that is an inch too short. You will need brake line couplers to replace the line that runs to the rear hose. Measure the whole thing and you will be able to estimate how many long pieces/couplings you need and how long each piece will be. Write down the different lengths that you need when you shop for parts. I usually bend up the rear axle lines with the old lines still in place. I think it's easier to clone it in place than to fight 2 loosey-goosey steel lines at the bench. It may be more difficult to do that for the front lines but if you can get to them, it works for me. You can get it real close this way and then make the final adjustments when you install it. Check the condition of the horse shoe clips that hold the hoses in their mounts. You'll probably need them too. The most time consuming part of the job for me is running back to the parts store 3 to 4 times for that next piece that you forgot. Good planing can cut down on that time.
WHile your making such a good brake set. You might consider contacting CH Topping Brakes. 562-432-0901. [email protected] You can mail them your drums or buy the kit to port and tune them yourself. You will think you have discs after you do all of this!
Tim, I like to do this too. When I do the fronts, I usually crawl under the car and bend up a coat hanger first, then make them all pretty on the bench. I usually do the line to the rear on the car. I also like to buy a lot more fittings than I'm going to need. The theory is that I can take back the ones I don't use, but as it turns out I've ended up with a pretty nice selection of brake fittings over time instead! If you end up buying a flaring kit, I recommend the Rigid brand one at Home Depot or Lowes. I spent about $60 for the kit at NAPA (K-D brand) and my buddy spent the same money on his Rigid kit. I like his A LOT better. The cheap $10 benders work pretty well... actually I like them a lot since I didn't feel bad about cutting one up to make a mini-bender that's easier to use under the car! Large sockets also work well to bend around, especially if you're trying to make a coil. HTH, Ed PS- I DOUBLE recommend the advice to find a dual reservoir master cylinder. I lost one once and ended up getting in a fender bender (of course the e-brake wasn't 100% either...). No good!
Thanks guys, I just got back from NAPA, I was able to get everything I needed except for rear brake shoes, I guess I'll get those from Kanter or have them relined
there might be some open space in the shop either this or next weekend, so I am going to take care of the master cylinder and lines first, as wheel cylinders and shoes will be easier to do outside
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