The carb setting is most likely a side show, not the prob...I was responding to your note above it. The gas coming out around bottom area of carb was what drew my attention, sounds like PV prob or total failure of control by float/inlet valve. Remember, most carb systems cannot "dump" gas....
"Please understand that I am new to flatheads and EXTREMELY unschooled when it comes to these 94 carbs" Go here: http://www.norgv8club.org/all-dcouments-indexed/category/15-service-bulletins Click "download" on the two 9510 carb sections...the first covers how it works, the second overhaul, both Ford and Stromberg carbs are covered in their own sections. PV problems, though, are not covered, because Ford had only the ones that fit... You can see, however, the pathway of fuel from a bad PV, and how and when a PV delivers fuel through the venturis.
Thanks Bruce. Great information. Looking forward to studying it. But why would the suspected "bad" power valve work perfectly well in the engine, running for hours on end for 2 years and then all of a sudden, it would "fail" like that??? Also Bruce, the gas appears to leak out of the mixture adjustment screws after prolonged attempted re-start. It would not leak out of that area after short attempted restart. Andy
Also ditch those champion plugs, absolute garbage. I run NGK's in my 8BA, as soon as I changed them it was a world of difference as far as drive-ability.
"Okay. so I replaced the really black plugs late last night...." this sound like rich fuel to me. Could a backfire blow the power valve out?
idle adjustment screws should be set at 1 1/2 turns open to start with then turn each one down(one at a time) till engine starts to run rough and back it off 1/2 turn and your done, do this for all 4 idle screws and there should not be any fuel leaking from idle screws....... also make sure you use a uny-syn to sync your carbs. 94's are notorious for blown power valves anytime you have a backfire, also bad gaskets on em..........
Adding to Bruce's procedure... I screw my idle screws in all the way and then out two-and-a-half turns. This is for consistency (I don't know where I got the number from, but I ALWAYS use the same baseline for consistency's sake). I then use a Carb synchronizer to ensure that each carb is pulling the same (or at least close) vacuum based on idle speed screw before I start making any mixture adjustments. These two things give you a baseline to work from and you at least know that the carbs aren't remarkably different starting out. Then small-small adjustments just as Bruce advised, keeping track of how many turns you made on each step (I count in eighths of a turn). I use a vacuum gauge connected to the plenum to back up my tuning by ear. Whatever you do to one carb, you do to the other. Slow, steady, and a couple trips around the block will get you there.
So after reading everybody's posts it seemed I should get some replacement power valves just in case that was it once I started wading into it this weekend. I called my buddy James up at Gotham Auto Parts (please read about him here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/shameless-plug-for-a-great-guy.1023948/). He's close so I go to pick up the valves at lunch today. First thing he asks me is, "Did it backfire?" Now, I DO remember it backfiring once when I downshifted to 2nd and was coming down a hill. What I don't remember is if the problem began before or after that. Next thing he asks is, "Is the manifold wet with gas after it conks out or during attempted re-start?" Now, I'm like, "Shit, was this guy standing next to me when this was happening because that's EXACTLY what was happening?" He then goes into this lengthy explanation of why it sounds like the power valves. He also goes into a lengthy explanation of why SOME of the newer power valves are not right and the big verbal argument he got into with one of his suppliers about WHY the BAD new power valves are bad and that the supplier better look at the original Ford power valve that he sent him to see the difference and NOT to send him any more of the wrong power valves. So I got a few new power valves that are the GOOD new ones and I'm ready to give it a go when I get home later. My buddy James was the main counter guy at Job-Lot. You know, the very well known early Ford supply shop that is currently going out of business. He is now opened up on his own. Seriously, the guy knows his stuff and he's just the best guy to deal with (see link above). Call him up. Use him to get your stuff. Good people are hard to come by. He's one of them. I will let all of you know how it turns out, and seriously, thanks for all the input and help...from everybody. Andy
Yes. I picked up a few spares while there. Now I know at least one reason why so many people use strombergs. I'm using 94's because they were roughly 1/3 the price of finding good stromberg cores and having them rebuilt. Strombergs are in my future however
Agreed been running 94s for 15 years. I have only rebuilt them once about. 5 years ago. They are a simply made good reliable carburetor.
Okay. So it's not the power valves. Replaced them and finished putting it all back together and it started right up. Idled beautifully. Bring up to temp and once again take it for the four house spin to the gas station for some fuel. Breaking up again (or should I say still) under a heavier throttle. DIES as I'm pulling up to pump. Rolled it back into a parking space to leave it for a while because I KNOW it's not gonna restart for a while (usually an hour or two) and walk home. Gonna reset carb mixture first when I get it home and then pull the distributor to see if problem is due to worn Bakelite on the points causing setting to be bad on points. Still scratching my head. Andy
Which distributor are you using? The crab style or later 8ba? I thought the stock dist was difficult to run well with 2x2 carbs without modifying it.
Condensor... had similiar issues with my flatty last year... 3 different suppliers, 3 pieces of crap... just google the quality of some condensors out there these days, I'm sure somebody has decent quality ones out there but I gave up & switched to petronix (ya I know, but at least Im not breaking down with original owner at the wheel or on the way to a car show), After breaking down I would get home on the 40+ year old condensor that was in the motor when I got it... but seeing the handful of new condensors I had were good for nothing, I run on the petronix, if that fails, I have 40 year old points & condensor in the trunk to get me home !
OK I would put a timing light on your engine and rig it up so it is in the car while driving. Just watch it when the engine is breaking up and see if it is missing sparks. Simple and you know where your problem lies! Gary
@Denns1989 Condensor makes damn good sense, I also went to the breaker less route. Over here points and condensor went so cheap (quality), yet expensive and took too long to get. I love my Lumenition ignition, despite hardcore HAMBers call it pointless ignition. But as I pointed out earlier there must be more then one defect, because if sparks disappears fuel should still stay in carb. But I believe your point to be very valid.
You must divide and conquer. Pick ign or fuel sys. Then move on. What Bruce said on fuel. Use the one carb technique. I have had the cap go bad under load. Arc's across the cap under load. Weirdest one I heard was something was wrong /obstruction with muffler under load. Blocks off exhaust . Loads up bad.
If it ain't one thing is a another. Spark can be so weird and jump all over. You should barrow someone's distributor that you know for sure is a good running unit. Have them drive over take out and put in your car and take her for a spin. If she still burps out then you know 100% it's not that. Also do you have big ground straps from the frame to motor and the trans. The ol man I learned a lot from always said you can never have to many ground straps. Go back and check all ground to make sure you didn't bolt them down over paint and they are not getting good contact. Maybe even put a volt meter on and make sure your battery doesn't have a dead cell under load or is cutting out. Take the distributor out and have it ran up on a dis. Machine. I still think it's in the fuel but with it not in front of me all I can do is throw out ideas. Good luck I hope it's something simple and we are all over thinking it
My car was backfiring and cutting out under power. I only had one 94 that had been rebuild, but was planning on installing two. I instead installed a 500 edelbrock and my problems went away. I am now installing a Bubbas dizzy to get rid of the vacuum advance. I know the 4 barrel is not cool on a flat motor, but it sure runs good. I suspect the problem will be in carburation.
I'm having an extremely similar symptom but with one particular plug that looks bad. Have been through my carb 10 times, jetted it, changed to bubba dizzy, changed plugs, and am about to change wires. Oh, also changed fuel pump and checked timing 10 times. I've got Packard 440 wires coming today, will pickup plugs on the way home and will be doing a compression test when I get home. I am following this post anxiously. Good luck man.
So it's not fuel. It's spark...or the lack thereof. Everything is new on this motor regarding ignition system. New coil, condenser, wires, plugs, points, cap and rotor. Pulled a plug and attached plug wire to it and held it to ground while cranking. No Spark. Not even a faint little spark. NO SPARK at all. As I said before, cap, rotor and points look good. Pulled dizzy and brought it home to check it. Points are indeed good and setting is spot on. Swapped out coil with a known good coil (from my '54 Chevy pickup) just to make sure the one I bought wasn't bad out of the box. Replaced condenser AGAIN with a 40 year old condenser (NOS), No change. The thing that gets me is the problem is getting progressively worse. Now engine will not start at all. This morning it coughed once while spinning it over but doesn't light off. Gonna replace rotor and cap later tonight when I get home and see if that it the problem. BTW. It's a crab dizzy and it's been rebuilt. While I had it off the engine I hooked up my meter to the connection for the hot wire and points to see if there was continuity and there did seem to be a little resistance so I pushed in the spring loaded contact pin on the inside of dizzy and cleaned off where it makes contact with some 400 grit paper. Now it has complete continuity between connection screw on outside of dizzy and points. I figure it has to be between the coil and the plugs, probably between the points and the plugs. So, rotor and cap tonight and I will keep you all posted. Andy
For shits & giggles you can "hot wire" it to bypass ignition switch to rule that out. Unless it's vintage Ford ignition switch, it's probably Chinese. It sounds like a loose connection, bad ground or POS condenser. I believe you can test condensers to see if they're functioning, but I would bet the old one you have is good. Do you have a resistor somewhere in line? FWIW... pics might help. We are all assuming a lot based off your descriptions. You sound like you have decent attention to detail, but it could be a rats nest with nothing buy poorly crimped connections everywhere! I'm just saying... 3blap.
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