Technical EZ Wiring Harness installation advice

I'm trying to finish up the installation of the wiring harness (EZ Wiring 21 circuit) in my '55 Cameo. The harness installation was started by the previous owner but not finished. In hindsight I probably should have just gutted the wiring and started new. I've got the wiring from the firewall forward finished and the truck now turns over and runs (although the timing is way out but that's another story). With the ignition on, I have coil power (and solenoid power in the start position) but currently have no power at all at the fuse block. I noticed that the ignition accessory power had come loose from the connection on the column (the truck has a 1979 Camaro/Firebird tilt column in it). Reconnecting it did not feed power back to the fuse block when the key is on. I'm assuming main power comes in through the 10 gauge wire from the battery terminal on the solenoid to the fuse block, feeds to the ignition, and then is fed back to the fuse panel to power the circuits when the ignition is on? The accessory power lead was just to the right and down from the last wire on the right in the photo.
Could anybody provide some advice as to what to look for? I don't understand why the fuse block is dead.
The installation manual I'm sure the previous owner got with the harness likely would have been a huge help!



Thanks in advance.

Allan

 

The EZ Wire instructions are available online. If it were me, I would copy the instructions, and start at step 1. Ive used the EZ wire harness before. I wont say that the instructions were the worst Ive ever used, but they definitely were not the best. Seems odd to me that you can start the engine and dont have power to the fuse block. Since the PO did not complete the harness installation, he or she may have been in a little over their head, so I would be skeptical of any connections that have been made. Copy the intructions, step back, take a breath, disconnect the batterry, and start over. Good Luck

 

Yes, get that diagram..

A fuse block should get power from more than one source. A BATT feed that is hot all the time, might come from the big terminal at the solenoid on Chev.

then with key "on", there has to be a heavy wire from key switch to the fuse block
.

 

EZ wiring does not send complete wiring diagram with harness. They give alt, ignition switch wiring for different makes, but that's about all. Now for your question. The 10 gauge red wire should hook directly to battery, normally at the post on the solenoid. GM uses red wires for hot all the time and pink wires for ignition hot. Also there should be another 10 gauge wire that goes to positive post on alt. Since you have a all black harness, you should get a wiring diagram for a GM car with your column ignition switch and use that to figure out if wires are hooked correctly. My diagrams are at shop. I'm sure another Hamber has them on file.

 

Remember part of the fuse panel is hot all the time and some of it is ignition hot.

 

I installed a 'Painless' kit in a friend's F100 (Ford 351 power)
It was anything but 'painless', changed some key schemes. Most was O.K., but have seen better.
I actually had better quality by wiring from scratch with a modern OEM fuse box. But that was what I did for years.

 

It made no sense to me there was no power to the fuse block. I went back out and "wiggled some wires around" (how's that for a technical troubleshooting term) and ended up with power at all the fuses except the turn signal, radio (both locations) and AC-heat. I'm going to pull the fuse block off and check all the connections on the backside and then work from there. A partially wired project might as well not be wired at all.

 

Thanks! That will help.

 

I sure hope "The37Kid" does not see those pics.....he won't sleep for days.. lol

 

See if this manual helps ....
Well ..That didn't go well .....
If you can open it , its a copy of an older "E-Z Wiring " manual ....

 

I still read all the electrical posts, but neither of my cars will ever get wired. I've had the projects for so long I just can't think of loosing them to the fire. Bob

 

Gray Ford, Interesting they don't send that with harness anymore. At least not with that much info. I have installed a couple dozen EZ kits. I also helped build the electrical ground support test equipment for the fire control system in the F-4, F-111, L1011 and DC10 so wiring cars is a piece of cake for me. I settled on the EZ harness having done a Painless (ya right) and a few others. It is easy to diagnose a problem for a customer later on down the road, especially over the phone.

 

I wish you were closer to me ,I would come over and help. I lov wiring. Just finished a friends 50 Merc with a EZ kit. Like everyone's say's , step back, take a breath, go at it from the start, one circuit at a time. I'll watch for your post and see if I can help. It's really is fun.

 

I wish you were closer also. lol

 

Used a Kwik Wire harness in my '59 and it went very well, great instructions. No offense, that harness looks like ass... love the red over spray too. And 21 circuits is a lot for a pickup, unless you have power this and that to make use of it. I'd be tempted to deep-6 it and get a Rebel or Kwik Wire.

 

The 10 gauge wire that says "Solenoid" on it goes to the starter where the battery cable attaches. This is the main power to the Ign SW. And it will feed the fuse panel for the battery side and then from there , there is another wire that goes from the Ign. SW Acc. side to the fuse panel to run the Ign. side of the fuse block. It would be easier if you had the colored wires instead of all black, you'll just have to read every wire to see where it goes.

 

You are correct ,the last 2 wires to the right are Ign/ Acc. With the key "on" those 2 wires should test "hot" to make the fuse panel "hot" on the Ign side.. Make sure those 2 plugs are pushed in tight on the sw., they look "loose" in the photo. Also, that Ign. Switch is adjustable.

 

No offense taken..... I didn't install it, I'm just trying to make it work. lol
I'd prefer it much more without the overspray as well. It was originally supposed to be turquoise...... until the previous owner got involved.

 

Your harness was never broken out and routed right... it was taken out of the box and thrown in. This is why you may have a pulled wire (or likely more..) at the fuse panel. I strapped mine down to a harness board, 1/2" plywood and measured everything off my dash and where I wanted it to exit the firewall.

 

If you need anything, even though it is a Kwik wire, let us know. We have helped out guys with other setups before. Most of the setups is similar, and we might be able to save some headache.

 

Very cool of you guy's at Rebel Wiring to help out like this! I'm thinking of selling my EZ Wire kit and going with yours now!

 

On the EZ Wire kit, from what we've seen recently, be sure to check the crimps on the wires at the back of the fuse panel. That's all I'm going to say about it, not trying to down anyone's product. Still let us know if you guys have any questions that we can help out with. That's what we're here for, we're still just some old car guys that like to see them back on the roads!

 

I would take it out and start over with a Centech kit. I have wired hundreds of cars and this is by far my favorite kit. The compact fuse panel and crosslink insulation on the wires are great.

 

The crosslink insulation is by far the most fireproof you can get. I burned a wire on purpose to test it by directly grounding it. The wire burned off inside the insulation without melting it.

 

That first photo looks like something was burnt. Did ya pull that connection and check those wires?

 

Thanks did a Google search and found this wire, sounds like a good test you did. Bob

 

Go with Painless!

 

Used EZ wiring twice. Disappointed both times. Never again. Pulled and replaced.