Technical Sbc or Flathead in a model a , whats involved

So i bought this coupe today, 1930 5 window With a 39 transmission and juice brakes.But the b engine 4 banger in it has some problems. So i decided to put either a sbc or a ford flathead v8 in it. What kind of work is involved in both of them?
Sbc
new radiator
Make room for the dist.
Can i still run my original tank?
Enginemounts
tranny adapter

with the flathead ? Almost the same minus the dist problem ?

 

New transmission is a must since the A will not handle V8 torque, new transmission mount, shortened V8 torque tube and rear axle. Pretty much an entire driveline upgrade.

 

As said above, a driveline upgrade and a K member for both and box the frame for SBC. Also consider steering box upgrade.

 

The 39 trans and banjo rear can handle a mild sbc. Just don't go dumping the clutch at every stop. If its still set up on the stock frame and stock length torque tube, you would MAYBE only need to figure out your firewall and box the frame a little.

 

He said its got a '39 transmission. It will actually work behind either engine if you learn to shift it. Behind the small block it would really want to go behind a small displacement small block that is not built to the hilt.

with either motor if it is an A chassis it wants to be boxed. The wish bones will need to be split on the front. The A radiator will cool either well enough if number one they are tuned properly and number two the radiator is pressurized. The Flatty and the small block use a pressurized system.

The small block can be made to work with the stock tank but I don't think you'll get the distributer out without removing the tank. I imagine that you will want to carry a minimum of 15 gallons of fuel and I don't think that the stock tank carries that much.

If indeed I decided to run a small block I would probably run a later 4 speed or full syncro 3 speed but that is your call the '39 will hold up like I said.

 

Beano, I couldn't have said it better myself. If it were me, I'd figger out somewhere else for the fuel tank. If you're gonna run fenders and running boards saddle tanks are a possibility. Or if open wheeled, Tanks, Inc. makes some universal tanks that will fit in just forward of rear wheel wells, and far enough back to get a metal firewall between the tank and seat back. I set my roadster up that way.

 

Try to look at my build thread if you got a chance and are looking for a flathead v8 conversion.
You need pedals, steering box, frame, wishbone, and more things. Rear end too if sbc

 

Check out Ben's build thread. Many pics and step by step (sometimes backward steps) thread on how to build an AV8. And the kid is 20yrs old!

Sent from my SM-G900V using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Oh derp, speed reading has failed me.

 

SBC will be cheaper but a bit more work to shoe horn into the A. rear end will need an upgrade either way I would think. Lots of ways to put a K member in the A frame, I didn't box the frame for my flathead coupe but did put an x member in it which stiffens up the frame a bunch. You can run an unsplit front bone with the flathead or a SBC, there is at least a couple of threads here showing that done with custom cross members. Steering box upgrade will also help get it out of the way of the V8 which ever motor you use.
Either way you go, it'll be fun!

 

I think the folks above have covered most of it. Some things to think about is what style/period car do you actually want? If you're going for a 40's to early 50's traditional build, then the flathead would fit the bill - while a later 50's+ build could use either (though an early SBC engine that looks like or is a 283 is pretty dang cool).

The suggestions to strengthen the frame, use a good transmission and a better rear end - really apply to both (if you want to have some fun, abuse it a bit and make it a comfortable and enjoyable car). You can run a 39 trans (just be nice to it with either engine), but do think about rear-end gears, freeway/highway driving and engine RPM. You'll find that a lot of early banjo rears are 4.11 ratio . . . with just a 1 to 1 transmission ratio in high gear, you'll be spinning the heck out of any engine when you're on the highway at 75 mph. So, think about a modern transmission with an overdrive - can sure make road trips a lot more fun, plus you don't wear out your engine by high RPM usage on long trips.

Cost: If you want to build a performance flathead (especially if you need to pay somebody to do it), then it will probably cost you 2x+ what a SBC will cost you. I love flatheads (and love to build the most bad-ass ones I can), but if I was on a tight budget, then sometimes function and cost trumps form . . . so a SBC fits the bill for a lot of guys.

In the end, the biggest part of this decision (outside of money and time) is really WHAT do you want the style of your car to be and what are you planning to use it for? Use that to drive your project and don't look back . . . as there will be headaches, drama, $$$ over-runs and things that you can't anticipate no matter which way you go --- so know where you want to head and why.

Best of luck!
B&S

 

Get yourself a copy of "How to build a Traditional Hot Rod", by Mike Bishop & Vern Tardel.
$24 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Build-Traditional-Ford-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760309000

 

Beat me to it. Even if you don't follow the "bible" word for word, it's a wealth of information you'll be glad you have at your fingertips.

 

I run the stock tank, about 9 gallons. I did the wheelbarrow firewall mod and can easily pull the distributor / talking about an SBC. Frame is boxed. If SBC is how you go and want a mechanical fan, plan on a Zips water pump riser (not cheap, but worth every penny).

 

Hi Guys Thank you for all the advice. Well i cant Box the frame because of switzerlands law, stupid but its not allowed . Either way i actually don't care what engine i put in it, i will just go the most easy way because i have not a lot of time here in the USA and would love to cruise a little bit here around. I like flattys as i like SBC both have the ups and downs. Also i dont plan to go the 75 mph route that often.

 

Could you get away with bolt in X member? the fame can be stiffened without boxing and if it is an inspection deal you could make your X member bolt in and remove it for inspection.

Just a thought.

 

yeah i guess this could work

 

did you guys know that verns book is here available ?
https://books.google.com/books?id=9...=onepage&q=building traditional hotrod&f=true

 

Im running a 283 in a 32 with 39 trans and 32 banjo rear.
Damaged first gear on my 76 year old transmission and have a rebuilt VanPelt trans going in. Everything works rather well, but I don't feel you can drive it like a hot rod.
Keep the shifts easy, the tires skinny, and put you foot in it when you're already rolling along and you'll be fine.

 

The trouble with the '39 transmission is that you have to learn to drive it. Some of us learned to drive a transmission with no syncros when we were learning to drive and others have to learn now after the fact but anyone who has ever driven one had to learn how.

Something that I have always wanted to do was find one that I could play with and see if I can make one that you can bang shift like a more modern bang shift transmission. One day one will land in my lap that I can play with and then it will be dremmel time.

 

SBC is probably quicker to build because parts are easier to get. And cheaper too. Can you do a partial boxing, just from the firewall forward ? The Swiss are strict . I have friends who live outside of Bern !

 

@Gasolinedeniz

I don't know where you are in the states, but if you could manage to get yourself to the Mid west here there is no reason why we couldn't do the swap right here in the driveway. Small blocks are easy to come by and I am pretty sure that we could round you up enough pieces to screw a 283 together.

 

Thanks for everyone
So what are the modifications i have to do to go the sbc way, do i have th split the wishbones ? I guess not! Why i cant use the original pedal assembly ?

 

You got to split the bones and you can use the peddle assembly that's in there is you don't change the transmission, might have to fudge some things around a little bit.

 

bones splitting would be easy but i heard(cant find) of guys they was going unsplit and was seeing pictures of rised waterpumps so there was place for the distrubitor

 

Deniz, the easy way would be just to rebuild/ fix the b- banger or find an A-banger to drop in. An engine swap is never the cheap , quick and easy way ..at least the ones I have done or seen weren't.

 

Hey Baumi yes i know that for sure

 

Deniz, great you are doing your trip through the US!
I' ve seen your other thread, a b- banger with ohv- conversion is quite something, if you can keep and fix it, I' d try to. Maybe the rings have been mounted upside down and some other little mistake...?

 

Dare to be different!!
Hop up the banger and save yourself from rebuilding the whole car ( or sell the car and get one that you really want)

WE NEED PICTURES!!

 

okay i did my decision and stay with my banger It has a hole in a piston, gonna fix it this week