Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Suggestions for bracing a 31A coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dino 64, Jun 12, 2016.

  1. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I'm taking my coupe body for blasting soon and I want to brace the body. I've taken apart as far as the pics show. It's going to be on a rotisserie and will be move around a lot in the next few months. Also, I'd like to create a lifting point on the bracing at the body balance point for easier handling. Is that a good idea ? Where would you attach the bracing ? I'll be using 1x1x1/8" square tubing. Don't want the braces to get in the way of the blaster as much as possible.
    Thanks in advance ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766752.255138.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766789.522758.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766851.854294.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766870.293250.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766889.222406.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465766932.827960.jpg
     
  2. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,517

    5window
    Member

    Not sure about the bracing, but I'd suggest putting threaded plugs/bolts in all those nice threaded inserts like the ones for your dash rail.
     
  3. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Will they get damaged ? Or full of media ?
     
  4. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,415

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    dunno I'd blast something that looks that good, paint stripper and elbow grease?
     

  5. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks, but there's plenty of rust you can't see in the pics.
     
  6. I wouldn't blast that one, it looks way too nice - from the pics it does anyway. Chemical stripper is where I'd be. Blasting has way to many inherent problems and risks. We personally don't blast just to remove paint, we blast for rust removal.

    But since I'm used to blasting for rusty stuff - I'd pull the fire wall and all the wood, if it's getting blasted then those areas will be in the worst need of it anyway. You really can't brace it up well enough and make it easy on the blaster.

    What will make it easy on the blaster and easier on your steel is taking the paint off chemically and letting the blaster just haze it instead of stripping it.


    Bracing-
    3/4" electrical conduit is more than strong enough and cheaper and lighter than 1x1x1/8 tube, use what you want.

    Diagonals in the deck lid opening.
    Vertical Diagonals in front of the dash/cowl at door opening.
    Vertical diagonals at rear of door opening.
    High Horizontal diagonals at the door- usually to the previous verticals.
    Low horizontal diagonals from hinge to rear wheel wells.
    If you remove the firewall you'll need two horizontals with one vertical diagonal, then one diagonal across the tank opening.
     
  7. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    I think you are going to warp the shit out of it trying to blast it to bare metal. I would strip the paint first and then spot blast as needed. I wouldn't worry about bracing it.
     
  8. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks guys, I'll reconsider blasting. I could strip most of it and just clean up the rust and be done, thanks for the advice.
     
  9. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Saw an OT car today that this blaster did. Thinner gauge than the A and no warping. Seems to know what he's doing, may still go that route.
     
  10. I use electrical conduit (1/2") for bracing bodies sturdy enough to brace one an cheap.
     
  11. i didn't really brace the body on my `30 coupe project for blasting. one thing i did was make a simple bracket to attach the top of the A pillar to the rear door post. when you get all the wood out the top of the A pillar becomes loose from the rest of the body.

    i blasted some of the small stuff myself , and had the big parts done professionally at Blast Masters in Shakopee Mn. 952-445-8983. he did a great job with absolutely no warping. he was good , he was fast and he was cheap! i couldn't hardly believe it... i would have gladly paid him 2-3 times what he charged me
     
  12. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks for the info. Want it to serve as a lifting point so it's got to be strong too. Planning on tying the middle hinge diagonally across to the opposite rear vertical support just below the where the top and side of the body is bolted together. Same on both sides so they cross each other. I'll weld a attachment for lifting once I find the balance point. Hope that made sense, thanks guys.
     
  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,801

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I would take it to a media blaster, then have any rusty areas touched up at the sand blaster.
     
  14. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Exactly as was explained to me by the guy doing it. Didn't mean sand blasting everything in my original post, sorry if it was misleading.
     
  15. burninfatties
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 65

    burninfatties
    Member
    from Ocala, FL

    If lifting from the bracing I would use at least a 1x2" rect steel tube and dont be stingy with it.
     
  16. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,401

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yup, 1x3 recto steel tube
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.