Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical 50' merc guages 6v to 12v

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by farmer013, Jun 12, 2016.

  1. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    Hey guys, wondering if someone can help me out.
    I put a wiring kit in my 50' merc and wanna use the stock guages.
    I put a voltage regulator in line to power the guages but none of them seem to be working. Is it possible to wire them backwards? There's no movement on the guages at all, except for voltage and it just immediately goes to full. Anyone ever encounter something like this?
     
  2. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,484

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

  3. samurai mike
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 547

    samurai mike
    Member

    50 merc is positive ground.
     
  4. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    I was wondering that. I'll try that tomorrow
     

  5. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,285

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Assuming you have converted to 12 NEGATIVE GROUND, the first thing I would look at is the voltage with reference to ground from your installed voltage regulator. It should be +6 volts to ground. If that is working, then the next thing is to verify voltage at the gauge itself. These gauges (King Seeley) work on a on-off principle, which in theory should work with either polarity voltage. The gauges are simple bi-metal strips that heat up and move the needle.

    If you kept the car positive ground, then perhaps you have messed up the gauge voltage regulator and that is why the gauges do not work.

    You will need to tell us more about the polarity of your system. Also what kind of regulator are you using, Runtz? And if Runtz, is it two or three wire type.
     
  6. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    Ok so I tried a couple things today, reversed the wires on the guages to negative ground and made no difference.
    The voltage regulator I have is a echlin vt6187 which from what I read is the best bet as you only need one for all guages.
    My big worry right now is I checked the voltage coming out and it was still 12v and I'm hoping I did not fry the guages, (the car hasn't run for more than 15min, is that enough to fry them on 12v). The voltage guage does nothing and that's the one wigh the wire going through it. The temp guage goes max immediately, and fuel and oil pressure do nothing.
    I included a half ass picot the regulator installed
     

    Attached Files:

  7. 55Brodie
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 746

    55Brodie
    Member

    That is a voltage reducer, not a regulator. You would need to connect all the gauges positive terminals to the non battery side. That is assuming you haven't fried something.
     
  8. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    The part from dennis carpenter also sais it's a voltage regulator, not reducer.
    How long would it take to cook the guages? Any idea?
     
  9. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,285

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    The regulator may see 12 volts at the output, due to this type of regulator is a switching regulator, meaning it mechanically goes on then off. An easy way to check is to take one of the instrument panel bulbs and wire it to the output of the regulator and the other side to ground. Then use your meter across the bulb. It should read about 5-6 volts.
     
  10. Dominick Hide
    Joined: Dec 13, 2007
    Posts: 229

    Dominick Hide
    Member

    First question.... Do you still have original senders? If no then nothing will work.
    If yes..... Were they working before the rewire and change to 12 volt? If no then you have problems unrelated to your recent work.
    If yes then they will work just fine without the use of a regulator. This being the internet, and you having no idea if this is good information or if I am talking out of my ass then I will add that they should still work IF the regulator is grounded.
    The gauges are not polarity sensitive, so they don't care which post goes to power or sender.
    Wiring is simple.... Power in to one side of gauge and out other side to sender.
     
  11. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    Ok, we'll that makes sense now, the engines a 350 and I've got the 350 senders so that makes sense.
    I've got the original fuel sender so that should work. I'll try the test with the bulb, to see if the regulator is working.
    Guess I'll just put in a aftermarket guage cluster for the rest
     
  12. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,285

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    What you need is as follows:

    7806.JPG
    The part number is a LM7806 and Digikey has them. Wire the gauge to clock lead above. You may have to use more than one, but at 48 cents each, it's a steal. You can mount this anywhere that has a good ground. Digikey # MC7806CT-BPMS-ND.
     
  13. farmer013
    Joined: Feb 23, 2016
    Posts: 58

    farmer013
    Member

    Is that even with modern senders?
     
  14. You would coordinate your gauges with your senders. The original sender would be what would have the right resistance for your gauge.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.