Hot Rods Valves romancing pistons, problem solved

Don't worry about the springs we will just use my old trick on them. Heat em with a torch and quench them in my special oil I devised from a mixture of STP and baby oil. Couple flat washers under em and away we go.

 

Again as I've said before. Clay in the wrong hands won't help here. I'm referring of course to the OP. All of us here understand all the different way's the OP's problem can come from (assembly error compounded by user's action's) and how to fix it. Therefore we are all correct in what all of have said. Part of teaching is sitting back and watch what happen's. If he F's things up even more, so be it.

 

Lippy, really nice work on the old pallets...^^^

 

Anal perhaps but I never ever have a valve smack a piston even on an interference motor.
My point is that you don't simply screw a motor together, unless you are a hack.

You don't like my method but that's OK I don't like yours either.

 

I love all of the conversations on my post. The "driveability issue" was there was no mid range, it just went flat, so........I played with the carburetor (now in hindsight I should have known better) to richen it as well as playing with the distributor advance curve and no matter what I did it got worse. I never heard any noise that indicated a valve train problem. Part of that was due to having "old ears" and Flowmasters that dumped in front of the rear tires. When the engine developed a serious miss I then found the valve train issues. I'd like to say I over revved it but I don't think it ever saw 4K. The springs were the ones recommended by Howard to go with the cam. I relied on my former (limited) experience where I'd never had to check for valve train interference.

In visiting with the machinist, he said, if his memory was correct those pistons weren't designed/manufactured to be used with larger than 1.94" valves. I wanted to build a sorta old style 327 as well as use the pistons that I've had for over 30 years. Maybe not the best decision that I made My home made cutter sorta works, but I will probably use the suggestion on the Lindy tools, and yes, I will either use clay or cheese before I button it up

Some of my friends suggested that I just buy a crate motor (and probably some of you folks think, for me, that would have been a good idea) but along with learning a lot from you folks I've enjoyed your comments.

 

Don't buy a crate motor just back up and regroup. Shit happens and you either learn from them or go the way of the dinosaur.

 

Just a side note on 2.02 valves I had a 300 hp 327 running a 350 hp intake and carb and a Erson cam switched from 1.92 to 2.02 valves. The money should have been spent elsewhere the car was not one bit faster no bang for the buck.

 

I gotta give you an "A" for attitude and perseverance. Hang in there, you will get it. You're not the first to do something based on bad assumptions. Good Luck!

 

FYI.... Pork the only reason I have clearancesd a cam at track is we were at the track ! Blew up one motor and were cobbling another together to make the finals. As far your method you do it your way. I will do it mine.

My dyno numbers and time slips speak for my work not my typing about a friends blower motor that took 8 times to assemble and has not been fired yet.

 

I wasn't going to say anything about that issue , but I agree, especially with stock ports, and limited breating.
I prefer on the 1.94/1.5 heads to install the 1.6 exhaust valves and leave the intakes alone. Always seemed to work well for me, especially with open headers.
Just didn't want to confuse the issue here, as we have enough going on now.

 

just make sure you remember which one you used. Dont eat the clay, it causes constipation...

 

all you have to do to make the 2.02s work WAY better than the 1.94's is lay back the chamber wall to the bore. And the gain is across the board. Honestly, this is like a 5 minute operation, I dont know what all the fuss is about around this issue...

 

Ryan ..


I apologize to anyone I have offended. Did not mean to take it off topic.

 

The ONLY reason I went to 2.02 valves was the heads were worn enough that even new 1.94 valves weren't feasible. I guess the desire to use the old parts that I have had for 30 plus years have bit me in the arse, I have no regrets, this morning I ordered a flycutter from Lindy Tools, to massage the pistons, had a great visit with the owner, I think it was the first time I ever visited with the owner of a company, usually a "minion" talks to the customers I don't know what drama I missed, my second wife was a drama queen, so thanks to Ryan for cleaning it up The many remarks reminds me of friends that I have, some are very diplomatic, not rubbing my face in my own stupidness, others being quite ready and willing to say, Marv, you are a dumb chit, they are still my friends. Maybe, in another week or two I will be closer to success and I will clearance check the pistons and valves this time, I want to get this car driveable before I start a multi window house remodel.
Several folks have noted that you just can't "screw 'em together" and expect success. They make a good point. Back in the 70's I had a bunch of parts, all used/unknown, was young and thought I knew a lot and just "screwed it together", I stuck it in the same 38 Chevy, it would spin 7K, only let me down once in 20K miles (burned points), the car sat for 30 years and I thought I would use better parts and have a better engine. I think I will, but the road sure took a lot of ugly turns.

 

A nice chunk of Cheese can make your tummy happy

A nice Dial Indicator can make your engine happy

 

Absolutely !

 

Hell, my wife tells me that daily... Shes only right oh, say 50% of the time...

 

Can you please clarify what I've quoted you on here. Because the last sentence of your's say's something. As does "it just went flat". You you saying it had something then went to nothing ? The engine not being able to get to 4000 RPM in the very beginning plus what was found really points to cam timing and not that the valve's touched the pistons. The "Romance" is the aftermath. But time will tell. Continue on with your plans of piston notching so you have the clearance you desire. Then report back to us if it does not rev past 4000 RPM and your push rods are ok.

 

Just like all the others here, your where you can see everything and I/we can not. I've just spent time looking at your first two photo's and reread this entire thread. There is something minor (just because it's small doesn't mean it doesn't multiply) going on. I've seen bigger cams not do this. You've ruled out cam timing so I'll shut up about it. Moving on. Show us your clay results 2 way's please. One with out push rods and rockers and one with them installed. It's been mentioned before here. But we need this info also. Give us the true lift of your valves by using a dial indicator at the spring retainer.

 

And please remember the indicator stem must be very parallel to the valve stem. I have seen several set ups where there was a very visible difference between the two. This will give you a low reading.

 

engine building 101 gota lovIT...

 

Many beginners always fail when moving on to more advanced things like piston to valve clearance checking. The piston and valves are not at their closest point at TDC, so you NEVER check the P to V at this location. For the intake valve, they always seem to be the closest to the piston in the 15° to 20° ATDC range, which is pretty far past TDC and the exhaust is closest in the 15° to 20° BTDC range. As mentioned already, if you plunge the cutting tool into the piston at TDC, the relief pocket still wont be deep enough and the clearance around the diameter of the valve will be in the wrong location allowing it to still hit the piston. You also have to make the relief pocket at least .100" larger OD than the size of the valve or the edge of the valve can still rub the side of the pocket even if its in the correct location. I've set up at cut thousands of pistons from stock hot rods to Pro Stock, Super Stock, Comp Eliminator in all brands including Chevy, Ford and Dodge. And that's the process that is required to do it correctly and give you more smiles per mile..

 

Hi CNC Dude

You hit it right on the head that is why you need to do the piston to valve with a indicator, and not clay or cheese

I sent the guy a pm telling him I could run him through the deal of the correct way of checking, but he never got in touch and keeps going down the wrong road

He needs to find out what he has in there that is way wrong

It is so simple to just check it right, and fit it and bolt her up

 

Thanks D.N.D! I guess its easy to assume that because the piston is the closest to the deck or head at TDC, that's why we call it TDC, that the valves also share that same relationship to the pistons, but it isn't. Maybe he'll respond back and you can give him a hand.

 

check em out
http://youfacebookclip.com/watch?v=6zIWpMWlQug
http://youfacebookclip.com/watch?v=CnZkTFMdymU

 

Hi CNC Dude

I have told him that he will get way too many guys in the pool, and it will get confusing so just go with one guy ' like the old saying you can lead them to the water but cant make them drink '

Just hope that he does not wreck his parts !

DND

 

ah yep to many chefs in the kitchen makes a POOR (stew)

 

I called D.N.D and he gave me instructions on how to properly insure adequate valve clearance, it will be a few days until I get my heads back, get the cutter that I ordered from Lindy Tools and start making chips of aluminum. Thanks D.N.D for giving me your time!!!