Projects 31 roadster on 32 frame

I want to put a 31 roadster body onto a 32 frame. Never did anything like this and I am looking for information on doing it right. All and any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

IF your frame is an original. you will need a filler strip between the bottom of the flat "A" body and the '32 frame which dips down in the middle. If you a repop frame, it may already be built for an A body so lets start there. How about some pictures too. Tim

 

Pete & Jake's and Brookville make 32 "pinched for Model A's chassis. I have Brookville, others make them as well. That's a starting point anyway. The Brookville is flat on top to match the A body except for the slight rear kick up. It's also longer than the stock A frame so there is more room in the engine bay, but the stock hood won't fit. Just some basics. Tim's right....pics!

 

Thanks guys I was asking because I am eyeing a 32 chassis that use to have a 32 Fiberglass body and want to put a 31 body on it. Was asking to make sure I would be able to pull it off. I will post pictures after both purchases.

 

You may have to do the "filler" Tim was referring to if it was made for a 32.

 

Start thinking about the title early. Does the chassis come with a title? An original frame will have a VIN (serial) number that will in some cases make the job easier.

Charlie Stephens

 

Gary at blackboard hot rods has a nice frame.$1950.he used to work with squeak bell.aka kiwi konnection

 

No need for a filler strip if you do some extra work and mini channel the car .

 

No filler strips

 

I put the filler strip in mine back in the 80's, copying the Bud Bryan R&C build.
If I was doing it today to an original style frame, I would shorten the front feet at the firewall and do the mini-channel. There have been some very clear build posts on here showing exactly how to do it.

 

I pie cut the body from front to rear. So didn't pinch the rails. A lot of work and then the screen didn't fit. You live and learn.

 

I've done quite a few 32 chassis for this swap and I pinch the cowl to fit the body. I pie cut the body cowl above the reveal from the front back to the door and of course modify the rear for the kick up on the deuce rails and don't need a filler strip under the body. It works with a 2 inch shortened deuce radiator. As a side note in the early days this conversion was done onto a stock dimension deuce frame and looked good.

 

I used a stock dimension 32 frame with aftermarket rails under my 31 roadster and didn't use a filler strip but my old body had been channeled in the past and I had to make new floors, so it all depends on how good of body and floors that you are starting with.

 

I like the use of 32 screen posts on the 31, 30/31 posts don't do it for me, Any more pics?

 

To put 32 windshield stanchions on a 31, you need to either widen a 32 windshield frame about 1 7/8 inches or use a 36 roadster windshield frame and chop for height.

 

This used to be a common thing, to combine a 32 chassis with V8, and a Model A roadster body which was much easier to find than a 32 roadster.

The problem is the A has a straight frame, the 32 is curved on the top. If you bolt the A body on the frame with no mods it will sag and the doors jam.

The solution is to take a wooden board and contour the bottom to match the frame, then sandwich it between the frame and body. This makes a straight top to match the body. Hope this is clear.

Just trying to clarify what others have already spoken of, regarding the frame.

Later..... today you can buy a repro frame that is already straight on top for this purpose.

 

If you want to make a model A body fit a 32 frame, it's not too difficult. At the point where the 32 frame goes up, cut the sub structure out of the body and make one but using angle iron, laying it on top of the frame rail and notch and bend it until lays flat and build the rest of the floor from there. The stock wheel wells fit just right over the outside of the stock 32 frame above the rear end and you can build in a raised platform above the rear end for clearance and use that if needed for a rumble seat foundation. This also gives you room to run the exhaust over the rear end and separates the area in the rear to drain water that runs in at the back of the deck lid.

 

This is the filler hotrodA used.

 

Didn't Brian Bass do one where he just pie cut the cowl above the bottom reveal and pushed it and the cowl feet up?

 

A body ['30 coupe] on pinched '32 frame rails...
A wheel base is 103.5"... '32 is 106... 2.5" difference...
slid the front cross member back 1.25" slid the rear forward 1.25" so I could run a stock length hood
the '30 body is shorter than the '32... plus the forward moved rearend mean when running the stock '32 gastank you must shorten the frame about 4" in the rear...
also the further forward you move the body and the panel below the decklid the more must be removed from it...
step back, look at lots of pix... weigh the cost in parts and labor, decide if you want the '32 tank or not.
stock 1932 fiver body stops 1.5" ahead of the reveal in the tank top that runs across left to right... went with that... pic.