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Hot Rods Let's talk Cadillac 331's, 365 and 390's

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Apr 7, 2016.

  1. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    I just spoke with Howards cams and they are willing to custom grind anything I want for basically $250. It is limited to a hyd or solid only. No fancy roller or hyd roller. I just need to come up with a good idea of where I need to be.
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  2. please keep us informed. What are you planning on running for induction?
     
  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    I would love to find an Offenhauser tripower.
     
    Moriarity likes this.
  4. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    I have an edelbrock that might be coaxed away. I'm on the fence about whether I use it or not...

    Sent from my SM-G920R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  5. Dimadee
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 104

    Dimadee
    Member

    Wow. I would have loved an Edelbrock tripower. Had to settle for a OEM Cadillac one.
     
  6. MOTOV8N
    Joined: Mar 20, 2015
    Posts: 442

    MOTOV8N
    Member
    from Manitoba

    ...here's a different view of that oil filter. First year 1960 ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1464912514.936836.jpg
     
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  7. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    So has anyone found a good overhaul manual for the 390?
     
  8. wearymicrobe
    Joined: Jul 27, 2007
    Posts: 265

    wearymicrobe
    Member
    from San Diego

    Ok now you have me interested is this only on the TRI power and dual carb motors or even the stock ones. I have never seen that on any of the 365/390's I have worked on.
     
  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    So can someone tell e the deck height, connecting rod length, compression pin height etc. on a 390?
    I have specs, but I have no idea of the validity.

    Deck height 10.560
    Rod Length 6.50
    Pin Height 2.0938
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2016
  10. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

  11. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,533

    Dan Timberlake
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  12. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    I called a few old drag racing guys from around here, they were all trying to remember what their combinations were. Not much help, but I got to hear some cool stories.

    I was told to call Egge. They may have some info.
     
  13. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
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    from Mayberry

  14. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    all from a 67 manual. I have a 57 too but won't do you much good since the rods are longer. I'd call Kanter.
    1466639018001.jpg 1466639024044.jpg 1466639029194.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G920R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  15. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

  16. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,374

    TERPU
    Member

    Roothawg,

    I just built a '62 390 and installed it in my '33 Tudor. So from experience I speak. Use Hydraulics and a cam with mild lift over stock. It'll be alot easier than putting the Stude rockers on there. They go right on, but covering them up with valve covers becomes a challenge. I used Hildebrandt and still had to make spacers.

    I have an Isky Cam with .500 lift and Stude Rockers, flat tops, and 2x4 Rochester set up from a '55. Truth is if I was to do it all over again I would use the Hydraulics and shit can the Adjustable rockers and solids. I do have it worked out now but what a head scratcher to get all that covered up with no leaks.

    Not to mention in stock trim a '60-'early '63 will brake a trans with no effort just by the torque. I shatter inputs at will. Literally stripping all the teeth of of both Saginaw and Muncie. It's a ferocious bitch this Cad.

    Good luck in the pursuit it'll be fun in stock trim and a whole lot easier on the build. Here's a picture from the fresh install right before fire up. It's not nearly as clean now.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Can you repost the pic? Something went amiss.
     
  18. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    Experience carries a lot of weight with me.
     
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  19. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    So, if you were to use a different valve cover, would you still have issues? where was the bulk of your frustrations? The spacer or the leaks ? Just wondering. I already have the Stude rockers. I was gonna go hyd lifters and use adjustable rocker shafts. Hindsight is always 20/20.
     
  20. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    Just got off the phone with the guys from Cadco. I spoke with Chris and he seemed very knowledgable on the early stuff. He has access to Venolia pistons and forged H beam rods for the performance guys. I would suggest giving these guys a call if you need parts. http://www.cad500parts.com/
     
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  21. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    I built (or had mine built) mine using standard SBC valves (1.94 and 2.02)with hydraulic lifters and a mild grind cam. It was a 365 block bored .030 and stroked using 390 guts. you can't use 365 pistons with 390 rods btw. used a petronix unit in the distributor and it ran and drove great with plenty of power to haul around a 48 chevy sedan delivery. through a 4 speed.

    Unless you're racing I'd avoid big cams. these things are torque monsters and it's rare to go fast enough to get the benefit from a big grind. my .02
     
  22. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    I can't really bring myself to run a small cam in anything. It will see it's share of track time and a little stoplight action.....
     
  23. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    I like the big cam sound myself, but after discussing it with a bunch of caddy guys I settled on the mild grind. the big cams don't really kick in until the top end of highway speed. unless you're serious racing I think you'll be happier with the overall performance of the engine with the mild grind.
     
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  24. This may help someone , I run stock Cad rocker arms with adjustable push rods . They clear stock or aluminum valve covers without dimples. I run a Crane Ultra Hi- RPM drag cam which I originally ran with Hilborn Injection , now I run Cad tri-power manifold on street.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
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  25. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,374

    TERPU
    Member

    Sorry for the delay Roothawg, been out of town. But here's my experience others may have this a different way. I used Hildebrandt Covers with dimples. But the Stude rockers are fat, even after sanding them down as much as I felt comfortable. I had to use 1/4" aluminum and space these covers about 1/4" up towards the intake and 1/4 higher from the thickness to get it all to clear. It works Bitchin' now. But I also tried stock covers with dimples, another valve cover which was sworn to work, and also thought about sheet metal ones. But in the end just some time and material I got what worked for me. I couldn't find any covers that would work out of the box, and I looked for a while. The suggestion of adjustable pushrods is also a great one. That would solve a ton of this (in hindsight) and you can still run the dimples.

    All the best,
    Tim
     
  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    Thanks Tim.
    I talked with the guys at Cadco about your problem. Chris said that he designed the ones that PML is manufacturing and they don't leak and have plenty of clearance. He also said the Hilderbandts tooling was wore smooth out and that was why they quit producing them. He sells the PML's out of his shop as well. No known leak issues.

    What do the adjustable pushrods fit? I doubt anyone is making them for the Cadillacs. What length did you have rangewise?
     
  27. Vhodoo
    Joined: Mar 27, 2016
    Posts: 12

    Vhodoo

    I have a mild custom 62 coupe deville and had a 63 prior. Both stock with electronic distributor conversion. They both piss out of the hole at stop lights. I could not believe how such a big lump of a car could go so well. These guys are not kidding when they say they are torque monsters. The 63 definitely had the edge. They are mint, sit there idling at about 450 revs - hit the throttle and that big ole lump of car is out of there. If the engines were more common here in Aus I would definitely have one in my model a project
     
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  28. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,582

    Roothawg
    Member

    Sounds promising. My 36 weighs about 3200 lbs. Quite a bit less than your 60's Caddies, so it should motivate pretty good.
     
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  29. If my memory is correct my push rods were made by Smith Bros. push rods , Redmond Oregon . 800-367-1533 , tech line 541-388-8188 ,they will make to your specs.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2016
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  30. I still have my old Thomas mag. adjustable rocker arms. They are worn on shaft surface and must be rebushed with bronze bushings. Had to use spacer for valve covers . Also have the Howards M-2 cam that was in motor back in 62 .
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2017
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