2.3L Ford 4 cylinder info- alternative Engines

There's been a pretty big response here about the 2.3L valve cover I tried and failed (so far) to make http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152942

I know it's not period correct, but it's a pretty easy engine to use 'cause of availability. It's served me well. I've taken alot more info from HAMB than I've given, so after I was asked by another HAMB'r, I decided to post my 2 cents here for everyone. I don't claim to be an expert, this is just what I've found/learned. I'll enjoy seeing other opinions and success stories.

1) DIS stuff, it means, NO DISTRIBUTOR! Unless you're going computer controlled, you don't want that stuff. Most later model stuff is DIS.

2) Don't go for the 2 spark plug heads, I hear theres no benefit... also I think the D port head is the best... but unless you're racing, the oval's probably just as good. There's also an aluminum head and a full ARCA racing block... Bring cash!!

3) to run a solid lift cam (that's what I have) you need to modify the head. Try to find one that's already done, depending on if you want to buy the tool to do it yourself. And the roller-follower heads are cool, but it'll be a little harder to find cams; there are alot of roller heads out there

4) STROKE IT! If you end up buying parts, instead of a finished engine, go for the chevy rods or a longer rods with shorty pistons. It's better for torque. You can pretty easily get to 2.7L. (with the Ford SVO tall deck block, you can get to 3.0L!)

5) also, try to find a 2.5L crank. You might have to get some main bearing inserts (not that expensive) but it's a cheap 200cc's! Later model Ford Rangers had the 2.5 w/o the distributor.

6) If you're gonna run an automatic, don't feel like you have to find the elusive (=pricey and often cracked) 2.3 to C4 bellhousing. The C3 I have has served me well with a shift kit and rebuild. It shifts hard. The only trouble is the stock stall converter. But, Hughes, here in AZ will build a custom converter for only about $300. By the time you buy a C4, build it and buy a higher-stall converter, I think you'll save money. I'm using a slightly modified Chevy 350 Genie shifter too (with a killer ChromedRat shift knob!). If I had room for another pedal, I'd run a manual and solve a BUNCH Of problems! NO can-do in a narrowed 27 modified.

7) The valve cover selection sucks, that's why I designed the finned one. The one on my car is the nicest of what's out there, but the last one like I have sold for $174! Try to find a chrome, stamped one, or a stock one and pinstripe it up!

8) For the intakes, you can get an Esslinger-2 barrel or Offenhauser 4 barrel one fairly easily, they come up all the time (I have an extra Esslinger). Watch what the ministock racers are running. The one I have is custom, but you can buy a similar one from Esslinger. Watch out for interference with the distributor for trick custom intakes.

9) Websites: turboford.org (mostly turbo guys, but a good crowd); esslingerengineering.com; http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/ (under 4 cylinder) those are the ones I've used. And, I just found this... http://www.ringsurf.com/ring/ford23/ its a 2.3 web ring. I'm gonna check it out. There are many other sites.

Finally, watch out for other Ford 4 banger stuff. To my knowledge, NOTHING interchanges. 2.0 stuff won't work and later model 2.3 stuff (ztec) won't fit. I've found the COOLEST valve cover, but it only fits the 2.0.

Here's my ebay searches to narrow the search for the right 2.3 parts. You still get some crap, but it's less. You should be able to cut and paste, then save the search.

("2300", ,, "2.3", ,, esslinger,, "racer walsh") -"2.3" -,autometer, -fiat, -vega, -monza, -mazda, -mercedes, -focus -aspire -topaz -probe -taurus -bronco -"f-150" -windstar -f150 -honda -chevy -(harley, headlight, light, shirt)

and

"2.3" ford -focus -aspire -topaz -probe -taurus -bronco -"f-150" -windstar -f150 -honda -chevy -(harley,headlight,,light,shirt)

I hope this is useful to someone!

 

Our Volvo head and blower package is progressing nicely. Add it to the list soon.
Gemini EFI

 

I loved the 2.3L that I put in my 84 Ranger after the factory 2.0 died.

It had a stock 86 bottom end. We put in a hotter cam, opened up the exh ports to match the headers & did a bit of porting on the intake side. We also played with the dist advance curve. Holy crap, did that thing come alive! Even with a crummy 2-bbl, it ran well.

I have always thought that motor would be kick-ass in a Track-T.

 

I built a T-bucket with a 2.3, and I'd like to build another one again sometime. Good strong engines, the bottom end has something like 5 main bearing caps! It was a lot of fun in a little 1200# Hot Rod. Another alternative for a cool valve cover is pick up an aluminum one off of the tubo T-bird model, and grind off all of the crap they have cast into the top. You end up with a nice smooth aluminum valve cover that you can polish, or leave in a brushed finish like I did. This is the best pic I have of the one I was running.

 

pikesan99

Do you have any photos of your 2.3. I am putting a 2.3 in my 30 sedan with 2 94's atop. Hopefully, i can get that to work. i have a ways to go though. finishing up the body work now. up next, the frame and suspension.

Thanks for all the info.

Bryan

 

Barcore,
COOL! I wanted to do a simple exhaust like that for my 27, but I think these motors get alot from a correctly tuned exhaust. Esslinger's "Thunder road" or something like that, claims to get 15 HP just with a header change!

That's a cool idea for the valve cover. I'm gonna be on the look-out.
Pike

 

Yea, check my signature... TONS of pics and build info and detailed views of suspension, front and back.

 

In this day and age of high fuel prices and poor quality, there are going to be a lot more of these little monsters in hot rods. I'm doing a turbo version for my project. While not really "traditional", I'm doing it in as much of a traditional style as I can. It's all hand built, so what's so bad about that. I really need to find a cool valve cover for mine too, I'm probably going to mill up a finned plate to weld to my turbo cover.

 

Very cool Coyote! What's the project?

 

It's a 48 Chevy sedan that's gonna be a fenderless p/u cab. I think the 400 ponies the motor will make should push it along just fine, and still get in the 30's for economy.

 

Please excuse me dredging up an old thread but this seems like a an appropriate thread for my questions.

I'm considering going the four cylinder engine route on my hot rod project. The Ford 2.3L engine seems to be the most bang for the buck, in stock form at least, which is a very important consideration for me. However looking at the cost of hop up parts for this engine gives me pause. Just how much power can you get from these engines with minimal investment? I'm thinking 150-200 hp would be my target, is that possible without spending a small fortune on speed parts?

David

 

Here's an adapter for 2.3 to 5.0 and a link to a 5.0 flywheel with a 2.3 crank pattern.
http://cididit.com/products.htm

 

Yeah, I think Esslinger would claim that you'd get 3 hp from running their decal! There stuff is good though. There complete D port head is a bargain for the money. You can't have that work done for the same amount.

 

Not to change the subject, but I have a friend that messes with these things, and he got 400 horse out of his turbo 2.3. I saw the dyno results myself. He said he would never build a 5.0 liter again. All his stuff is bolt on, no machine shop type work.

 

Saw a couple of Pinto (generic term, like calling all gelatin deserts "Jello") powered rods at Pleasanton last week and the engine bays looked better than I expected.

gary

 

Here's my 2.0, it's a 72 Pinto.

 

So, what have you done to that engine? Are you happy with the power?

David

 

Also the fuel injected manifold's lower half works great with a little bit of mods to fit a 2 or four barrel carb on it. A nice little air cleaner to top it off and it would look period correct(semi).
I am in the process(slow) of putting in a turbo 2.3 in my 31 sedan. Just need to find a spot for the intercooler in an already cramped engine bay.

 

yipeeee,i just bought a whole 74 Pinto with 2.3...so i get the non trad front suspension and motor trans and rear for my 39 Ford pickup.great thread.and yes i am keeping the old stuff in storage.

 

It has a mild cam, a little head work, the twin 2 barrel carbs, and a 3" open exhaust. I'm running a 4 spd, and a Volvo rearend with unknown gear ratio. It runs good all through the rpm range, and tops out about 105 mph.

 

What about torque off the line? Is it fun to drive from light to light?

David

 

It's quick off the line. It'll light up the rear tires in first, and chirp them in second. I had a progressive 2 barrel on it, and the gas mileage was great, I never put gas in it. I don't have much seat time with the twin two barrels, but I know the gas mileage has suffered, just in time for $4.00 a gallon gas too.

 

whats up guys im new on here and to the hot rod scene. im building a 23 lakes style with a 2.3 stock 4 in it. my only question in im having trouble with finding the room to put 3 pedals. any recomendations on pedals i could get from a junk yard or some where? or what car can i get the pedals out of that will fit into that really small area? the frame is 4 inchs from the ground so i doubt if a under floor type would work for the brake. not sure what to do about a clutch or any of it.

 

Maybe try some Toyotas or something. Hope you don't have big feet!

 

For a clutch consider a hydraulic setup from an 87-8 TurboCoupe, (years?) Ranger, etc.(?)

Thanks,
Kurt

 

I modified a set of stock Pinto pedals in my '27 roadster. The cable clutch made it very simple.

 

Swing pedals and cable clutch very easy as long as you have frame members
to hold them.

 

Dredging up a 6 year old thread.

 

Here's my roadster with a 2.3 Turbo/T5 setup from an '83 Turbocoupe... Peppy little combo ,even though pretty much bone-stock..

 

Working on it