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Technical Is a low budget hot rod even possible?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fender1325, Apr 24, 2016.

  1. One of the best ways to keep cost low is to trade.

    I was able to get most the machine work on my engine (261 Chevrolet 6) done by building a a crane for the machine shop to move their boring bar and blocks .


    Block bored .040 over
    Rods resized 460 A.R.P. installed.
    Head ported, polished and milled .052"

    Also help guys out with their projects, this goes a long when you need help.
     
  2. A good wagon and lots of walking at swap meets, set your plan and work your plan, talk to people while you are at swap meet they know people who know people who have parts to trade or get cheap but need some work. Took me over two years to build my 34 pick up but it did not brake me. and remember when you find a part that will work on your project haggle you never know what will buy it. Good luck and post some pictures of your 50, might be some one here looking for it.
     
    Fender1325 likes this.
  3. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,560

    mike bowling
    Member

    A $50. dollar cowl , the back panel from a P.U. ( doodlebug cab headed for the scrap yard), and a lot of odds and ends. ( I did replace the cardboard doors !) Winter projects I sell in the spring as rollers.
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Using the barter system doe not reduce cost, it removes "cash" as the medium to transfer value. You worked to pay the machine shop bill. You work your normal job & they pay you with a check you then cash. You worked building a crane & they pay you with machine work. Maybe you made for yourself more "value" per unit of time but the cost is the same.
     
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  5. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Yes and no

    You are right that there is always costs to pay, but when I "work" for me it's all free. And on top it feels like therapy.

    I work at a small firm that build equipment for farms and processing of wheed/grass/hope/rye etc and filters for industrial plants.
    We can used the shop for personal purposes, and we can take an reasonable amount of scrap streel. We can also buy fresh steel at cost price.
    So half an hour a day makes a big difference and an hour makes an huge difference.
    So to me that makes a fair cut in the cash that leaves my pockets.
    And the fact that I don't need to buy a shit load of tools, also keeps the cost down on my build.

    "We" have a CNC laser cutter, CNC Pulmax stamping machine, CNC break, automatic pneumatics sheer,
    Manual sheer, plasma cutter,
    AceOX torch, roller, bead roller, three different big drill presses, hydraulic press, hammer and dolly kits, anvils, welder and all the hand tools of the trade.

    This is stuff I will never get to buy.

    So if this ain't a job with room for a hobby, I don't know what is. :D

    So if you are just as lucky it should be possible to keep prices way down
     
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  6. Raiman1959
    Joined: May 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,427

    Raiman1959

    The cheapest way to do a project I've found...is to do as much of the work myself, and patience...and hit the yard sales, moving sales, and estate sales (within 100 mile radius). I bought a 1915 Chevrolet roadster body, doors, windshield, fenders, grill, hood and headlights, for $150 last year at a move-out-of-state sale. They thought it was a model t ford "maybe..not sure" ..., but couldn't make sense of it as it was scattered in pieces.----------then, I bought a cheap chevy inline 6 with tranny for $200 (no fancy header or carbs)...and scrounged for parts like an obsession. I'm still building it, but, it is very do-able and not 'run-of-the-mill' at all. It doesn't have to cost a fortune to build a project if you have a 'unique' vision and are able to do the leg-work and build yourself as much as possible (I do a lot of research and study to see if I can do anything). I don't have a lot of cash to spend, and that causes me approach the car hobby with a cautious spending attitude. I just like the idea of old hot rods, and can only use what is available the cheapest route possible (and what can "I'' do to make it better)...it does work, but with a subtle 'humble' attitude about it first & foremost....might not have much chrome or shiny stuff, but it will be fun...and my wife isn't complaining that it 'cost too much':D:D:D
     
  7. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Of course a cheap driver can be built, just takes time, work, and not much catalog shopping. Used parts where possible, new parts for brakes, suspension, cooling, and fuel systems, has to be reliable. I keep track of every line item including welding gas and have under $5000 in each of these.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Went over $5000 on this one, but spent money on new gauges, glass, jag IFS rebuild, etc..still well under $10K and has a 383 and T56 6 speed manual. Few things to screw on and its done.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    My time spent doing the work doesn't count of course, but I don't do this for work, I do it to relax.
     
  8. HRS
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 362

    HRS
    Member

    Take that 6k, turn it in to 8-10k and shop around for the nicest stock Model A you can find....maybe a sports coupe or tudor sedan...sell off the stock parts to a restorer and use the funds to scrounge for some inexpensive go-fast parts.

    Thats my theory at least...I see real decent Model A stockers kicking around for <$10k often on CL.
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  9. Indeed.^^

    Sometimes we forget that getting dirty is a money saver. not only avoid the catalogs but also avoid the "pro" builders. let it make you dirty. :D

    Something else that I have learned over the years is that undesirable or off brands help in the money saving process. I am thinking that today I would sure like to own a Model 40 coupe, but an A sedan will go just as fast, and can be had for the entry price of a model 40 grill shell. ;)
     
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  10. I used to hustle used cars to feed the stock car habit, some with questionable papers, so in some cases I would register them in my name and work the bugs out of them. Made it easier to sell with straight paperwork. Until I ran into a problem with the DMV. They wanted me to stop what I was doing or apply for a dealer license, think it was called "itinerant vehicle collector".
     
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  11. Latigo
    Joined: Mar 24, 2014
    Posts: 739

    Latigo
    Member

    I've always liked the idea of buying a fairly complete and running car. Maybe an unfinished project that needs work or something with "potential." Then drive and enjoy it and improve on it as time and budget allows. A garage full of parts can be pretty intimidating. When you're out and about you'll meet folks with parts and a willingness to help out.
     
  12. Scott Mannion
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 114

    Scott Mannion
    Member
    from Scotland

    I sincerely hope it is still possible, for all our sakes! Good luck and keep us posted.
     
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  13. rudestude
    Joined: Mar 23, 2016
    Posts: 3,048

    rudestude
    Member

    I'm also doing a T with volvo 544 engine and trans,got engine in a trade it's all rebuilt so what the hell use it...it's going to be a single seat bobtail, it being built from parts I had or got for nothing or trade ,have most everthing for it, now I'm starting to put it all together, cash money investment so far is $30 bucks....[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. Moondog13
    Joined: Sep 7, 2006
    Posts: 768

    Moondog13
    Member

    Need... More... Details!!!!

    How low is this going to sit with the frame Z'd and upside down? Is it a B16 or B18 that you're using? What's the cowl off of? Will you be starting a build thread?
     
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  15. BradinNC
    Joined: Mar 18, 2014
    Posts: 213

    BradinNC
    Member

    If you want LOW budget, you need to pick a vehicle that is in LOW demand.
    I found a 1930 Willys sedan on E-bay about 2 years ago. Got it for 415.00, no title,just Bill of Sale.
    Cost me more to drive from NC to PA and return than it did to buy it.
    Bonded title is not extremely difficult, but it may test your patience, cost me $100.00.
    300 ford six-$150.00,Tremec 3650 5 speed-$300.00, 8.8/3.55 out of explorer-$100.00.Roof from Ford Aerostar-$75.00
    I have sold about $500.00 worth of parts off the Willys so far. Engine/wheels/lights/guages/etc.
    Stay away from custom crap. Do it yourself with junkyard parts. It helps to have welding and machining skills.

    willys in PA.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2016
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  16. Raiman1959
    Joined: May 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,427

    Raiman1959

    I really like that cowl!....I'm curious as to what it is too? Lot of directions you can go with this project.;):)
     
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  17. rudestude
    Joined: Mar 23, 2016
    Posts: 3,048

    rudestude
    Member

    Well the frame is a 14 T ,front cross member is flipped, old dirt track trick I read about, Z'd the frame about 9"or so ,used a section of T rail for the kick so that the shape stays uniform front to rear, model A axle ,suicided,up front model A in the rear, T springs both ends,40 Willys radiator, the body panels are some ideas I'm playing with, 29?murray cowl that's been narrowed and pulled together to form the hump ,radiator shell cut down chevy, engine is 63? Volvo pv 544 duel carbs trans from same it will be a single seater ,I'm just getting going on it again, it's a filler project I work on when I'm in between on my other builds I will post more as I go....thanks
    Terry
    AKA RudeStude aka Terry T-bucket

    Sent from my SM-G920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  18. rudestude
    Joined: Mar 23, 2016
    Posts: 3,048

    rudestude
    Member

    Found this picture a few years ago when I first started kicking around the idea of putting a T together, did a little paper slicing and came up with this, it's the look I'm going for....

    Sent from my SM-G920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. rudestude
    Joined: Mar 23, 2016
    Posts: 3,048

    rudestude
    Member

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  20. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I like this kind of stuff, but where are the build thread?
    I would love to see more. If you need any help with the Volvo part of your build, let me know.
    I'm well connected and have good Google skills, lol.
    I love low buck builds!

    Keep at it, lad
     
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  21. rudestude
    Joined: Mar 23, 2016
    Posts: 3,048

    rudestude
    Member

    Thanks for the words, I didn't realize that my in between build was going to strike up any interest, now I'm ready to hit it a little harder ,as you can see I'm building it in my back yard so good weather helps, we'll last summer I didn't get much done I had to get a kidney removed do to cancer, so as the weather started getting better I started to go at it then I got the news that they found something on my other kidney, I know every one has got problems so the hell with it I'm going for it so I will try to post any up dates and pics as I go.....thanks




    Sent from my SM-G920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  22. I'm using an 8.8" ford explorer rear axle in my A. Inexpensive, 31 spline axles and 5 on 4 1/2" lug pattern, and parts are readily available. It is too wide as is, so shorten the drivers side to match the passenger side width and get a second passenger side axle. This is my first old car project too, and I've been taking the one or two parts a month route and doing the work myself. I will pay to have the axle dropped, but doing the welding, body work, etc myself. Good luck!
     
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  23. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I like most builds. Unaffected by how much progress you make.

    If you have any we can help with, don't hesitate to ask!
    Same goes for @moondog14
    And if it's Volvo I can give some good advice.

    Glad you've beat cancer, and best of luck to your brother.

    Cancer is a bitch, and people who beat it came out change. But the most of them came out stronger.
     
  24. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Some of my garage builds and cost to build... 1= $7,000, 2= $7,000, 3= $10,000, 4= $10,000... Pics make them look better than they really were but had fun with all the builds.... 100_0245.JPG 50\'s show rod 001.JPG MR 800 for sale 010.JPG 100_3565.JPG
     
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  25. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    I agree with what your saying , but with that same type of ideal you should be then paying yourself some kind of labor on your project at that point then too ?...

    If I do a labor swap , say it would take me 200 hrs to do body and paint on my car because I'm not good at it ... You would value that at $0.... But i can trade building a chassis that I would only have 80hrs in (because I'm good at that) to a guy who is good at body work... Did I make 120 hrs or am I at $0

    ... What if the guy who was really good at body and paint managed to do a better job than I , and he's only got 70hrs in it? Did I get screwed 10hrs?

    I only see $0 and a painted car and 120hrs extra to do something else with my life

    unfortunatly , its very seldom people are honest with strengths and weaknesses though and someone usally feels screwed , but when it works out like that it sure speeds up the process....

    And I have seen a lot of body guys chassis builds...a better product can be had by both
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2016
  26. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    1930 willys... there is a stewart warner type instrument panel [boat], that fits the willys dash like it was born there...
    check them out...
     
  27. Well I am going to chime in here and say that if you want it bad enough to beat the bushes and hit all the swap meets and save up all the parts you can find over aprox five or ten years at rock bottom prices with a long range idea in the back of your mind you can make it happen....I have wanted to build a 32 Ford 3 window for over 50 years. Have been buying parts and thinking about this for ever.
    Check out my build page on my 3 window build.....Chime in on it and let me know what you think...I built this for under 30K and it is a real deal steel 32 Ford 3 window with a bad ass 327 motor, 5 speed and a quick change rear.
     
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  29. 4psi
    Joined: Nov 30, 2011
    Posts: 298

    4psi
    Member

    I am just going to skip to the end and help you out here.

    The days of building cheap hotrods are long gone.

    The tools are not cheap, decent parts are not cheap. I hope you have room or the space to build a car because that isn't cheap either.

    It can be done, and small percentage of people can and will continue to build cheap hot rods, but believe me when I tell you. They have a lot of money in their tools, they have a cache of decent parts, and scrap metal, they don't outsource any labor, and when they are finished they will not sell the car for $6000.
     
  30. BradinNC
    Joined: Mar 18, 2014
    Posts: 213

    BradinNC
    Member

    [QUOTEIt can be done, and small percentage of people can and will continue to build cheap hot rods, but believe me when I tell you. They have a lot of money in their tools, they have a cache of decent parts, and scrap metal, they don't outsource any labor, and when they are finished they will not sell the car for $6000.[/QUOTE]

    And they don't have a woman henpecking them. That will undo a project quicker than shortage of time and money. If you have a woman that doesn't cooperate, you can kiss your car hobby GOODBYE.
     
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