What's the best way to remove and re-fit the wood pieces on a Model A when you chop the top. I'm not quite sure which pieces can be cut in place and which need to be removed. Don't want to tear out more than I have to, but I want to do a nice job. Any advice?
Did you replace all the wood or just in the chopped areas ? Planning mine, I can use all the help I can find. !
Grab a cup of coffee, a tape measure, a pad and pencil/pen, a milk crate, set yer happy ass in the car and sort it all out 1 spot at a time. You might make 4 new wood pieces if my memory is close, if you do make sure it's put back in hardwood. Old pallets are awesome for that, you can laminate multi layers.
Dino, I haven't done anything yet ,still trying to come up with the best way. Highlander, like you say, pretty much got to think it out. My wood is nice shape in the cut areas, think I'll check with Brattons and see if they will sell me individual pieces, they're not far away. Otherwise, looks like I'll be a carpenter.
I replaced most of the wood, I just left the wood around the rear wondow. I thought it would be easier to do the upholstry with the wood around the window. Most of the other wood in the car was rotted anyway.
Year and body style might make a big difference if the wood is structural or just for upholstery attachment. Most A's have strong door posts so the wood is just secondary, but the wood around the quarter windows and rear window should probably removed and spliced when chopping. If you've got a fordor you are a glutton for woodworking punishment.
I did three things to ensure a straight, strong joint when reconnecting the top on my '28 Tudor chop: 1) I sleeved the wood posts with u-shaped channel. 2) I drilled vertical holes in the door post wood and inserted pegs in the wood. 3) I cut out the external sheetmetal around the door posts so I could weld the inner structural metal, then rewelded the external sheetmetal. (pay no attention to the amateur welds- I was learning) More pictures here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tudor-update-angle-chopping-a-28-ford.377233/
Thanks guys, it's a coupe. I'm reading everything I can find, seems kind of intimidating, will be my first.
It's really not that bad. I just did my first coupe chop. The rear door posts are the only hard ones. You will have to pull the wood out to weld up the seams. I haven't done it yet but my idea is like above. Get new post wood(I destroyed mine getting it out) cut the same spot out as the chop amount and dowel it back together. Now the problem getting it out. There is a screw holding the wood in. It goes from the outside in and is covered by an outter skin. It should still be on the car after the chop. You can pull the nails out and separate the skins and see the screw but you'll have to drill a hole or something to screw it out if you want to try that. Hope that helps. I can post some pics if you like. My top is back together a solid. I think the wood is mostly for tacking the interior pieces to.
I cut through everything, then fit , glue and peg wood back together. I always make initial cuts ( through the sheetmetal) with a 4.5" angle grinder with a thin kerf metal cut off disc. Finish cuts through wood with a sawzall with a fine tooth METAL blade. All while keeping pressure UP from the cuts to avoid binding. Nothing worse than a sawzall binding up- big mess real quick. I do 'em by myself so I can concentrate and use the appropriate language without offending anyone. A chain fall and a piece of 2x4 and bingo. Silent partner. When you start to weld it back together, go slow and just tack things- I start at the cowl post and work my way around. You may have to put relief cuts in the top section in the rear corners depending on how much of a chop you do. And pie cut the areas around the windows so the posts marry nicely ( top will be bigger than the bottom) Pics of a 3" chop- the right amount I think to keep it from looking squashed ( although a 5" chop looks pretty freakin' COOL!) You CAN do it! Good luck!
Thanks Mike, I can use any tips. Any advice on where and how much interior bracing do you recommend ?
Here's a shot at the passenger side. After the chop. The two holes are where the screws were. Let me know if you need any more.
Bracing; "X" brace at the B pillars, and a brace from the cowl back to that to keep door openings from moving. I use re-rod ( concrete reinforcing rod) 5/8" dia. from Home Depot for bracing- 10 ft. for $6 bucks. Easy to cut, and welds up nice and easy. Take your time, and keep tacking till everything's lined up. Watch for heat buildup if you're using a Mig- a little tap on the trigger and move around. Good exercise! (Stay hydrated, but not TOO hydrated!) Pic isn't too clear- hard shot to get it all in.
Thanks Mike, did you have the body bolted to your frame before you started cutting? I hear you should do all the panel replacements and other structural body work before chopping, opinions please !
Do not chop a body without it bolted solidly to a solid frame. And all doors need to be perfectly aligned before cutting as well. Extensive X bracing is also required. I forgot about those internal screws in an A's door jamb. Easy to remove the wood if it's rotted, but I'd probably just cut right through it if the wood is solid since you'll never get the screws loose.
No prob man. My wood was solid but in my amateur status in chopping model A's I pried the wood out after I chopped it. You might , after the chop, be able to locate the screws and drill a hole through the outer skin to screw them out. After you take the nails out the skin will come away from the post about 1/2 an inch. Don't get too crazy pulling on it though. It's pretty thin stuff. Then put the wood back in after welding the top back together. Good luck.
Thanks alchemy, Mike, and hot rod don't mean to hijack your thread straw, I'm sure we aren't the only ones getting up the nerve !
This was my effort... a bit of a picture overload ! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-hemi-and-the-six-inch-chop.969142/
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