Technical Beginner drivetrain question

The engine mounts look like Ford Y-block or FE to me... but then again, maybe not.

 

I'm not up on Ford OHV front mounts at all, so last night I looked at Y block pics on net. I saw some factory pics, showing some sort of front cradle bolted to the front, that came down to end up with a center mount?

I did not think to look at newer Ford OHV

I also tried to find a pic of the 49-56? Ford rear trans mount, to see if they used that wide two bolt pattern, but did not find a clear pic. Looked somewhat wide on some trans pics I saw.

I was just thinking they may have used motor-trans-rear from one donor?

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Got pictures of the spare frame you could show us? That may be the way to go for you. Another rodder that's into these old, curiously modified, parts may be tickled to have that one there.

I'd like to know how that master cylinder is actuated. It looks like it is tied into the mechanical brake shaft / equalizer. Also of interest is the brake actuators on the front axle were left in.

I see you want to go fenderless. There are proportioning challenges with 35 up cars primarily because of the location of the front axle and the longer tail (despite sharing a 112" wheelbase). You're probably going to want to move the front axle under the front crossmember. The front crossmember in a 35 up frame is too low for this unless you're going for a Gasser in my opinion, so you'll need to change it out for an earlier, aftermarket, or fabbed unit.

 

If you understand what it's going to take to build and repair all the Tin. You want to run a fenderless Coupe and can pull that off. Why would you want to work with all the restraints of a Stock Frame? As a retired builder I would advise just hand building a complete chassis keeping the rails strait and flat. Now you can build flat floor, hang what ever you want for rear springs or,,, just be sure to run a I Beam front axle. Keep it simple and you just might get it done. Remember,, there are no rules when going fenderless just the demand for it to look right.
The Wizzard

 

Here are pics of the spare frame that I was hoping to use. Mind the mess!

Ok, so you are suggesting that the front axle would need to be moved if I go with a later style frame?

Thank you for your advice. I have never built anything like a frame before so I figured it would be a better option for my level of experience to just use the stock frame that I have.

 

No the 305 is not safer on the rear. Use whatever you want but anything more than 100 ponies is going to take its toll on the rear.

You can convert the rear to open drive, you can run it and keep running it if you don't put super sticky tires on the rear and remember that it is not a dragster. If you hammer anything the weakest link is going to break, make that your tires and not the drivetrain and you are halfway there.

if you find the proper adapter and an enclosed driveshaft like you should have for that rear a '39 transmission will work real well. it has no syncros so you will have to learn to drive it.

Another option is any number of chevy transmissions with an open drive modification or even a later open rear from a Chevy or Ford would be a popular swap. if you are really hard core and want to remain historic then an Olds rear is a good option but that is more of a serious hot rodder/racer rear from the '50s and '60s.

 

Your frame is already later. 35-40 are all similar. The axles are spring-ahead as well, which is why that front crossmember dips so low.

See those holes in the crossmember? Those are for the biscuit mounts under the water pumps on the flathead. The axle is somewhere around under & between the front of the block and the front cylinders of the engine. If you look at all the cars you traditionally see fenderless, you will notice that the axle is around under the radiator's stock location.

You're not going to run a torque tube & flathead, so that second frame looks like it's going to be better suited and a lot easier to deal with for you because it's clean and looks already modified to the task. The brake mounting holes appear intact, so getting an old or aftermarket bracket and MC on there won't be hard. Something like the SoCal 28-32 crossmember might be an option for moving your axle forward and going spring-over. I don't know if they are wide enough right now, I can't find the specs and I'm not in my shop (I have like, 3 of them).

And that rear looks 50's GM to me. You should be fine with a 350/350 combo.

 

Also, check out this buikd by @36 Vick here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/36-going-against-my-ways.951233/

There is lots of good stuff going on and he's really nailing the proportions IMO.

Whole thread on the subject here too:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/35-40-fenderless-coupes.834443/

Here is a contrasting example of POOR PROPORTIONING:
I wouldn't kick the guy's car, but the wheels and tires are too small and the front axle is, as you can see, set way back in relation to the nose, which adds up to less than optimal proportioning. This car would look 1000% better with the axle forward about 6" and taller tires, particularly in the back to even out the bustle.

 

And I know the ford-o-matic trans has a wide bolt hole pattern at the mount. I would think the cruise-o-matic use the same mount. any signs of a clutch pedal?

 

S-10 rear and a T-5 ( out of the same truck) with that 350 and you'll be humming right along for not a ton of money and have a dependable drivetrain that you can get parts for anywhere. Steel rims with nice caps or trim rings.
Very happy to see you decided to keep that coupe!!
Cheers, Mike from Mass. ( I learned that salutation from a friend in Canada! HaHa)

 

benno, thanks for the information! I was looking in the barn over this weekend and I think I will use my Ford 9" if my rearend in the '35 is not a later model. Just need to find a driveshaft.

Ok. Makes sense. I'll get that rear end ripped out soon enough and hopefully we can further ID it. If not I got the 9" as backup.

Great stuff. I was trying to locate pics of the '35 without front fenders. Found one from the '50s I think. Looked pretty slick. I might keep them on after I assess the repairs after I blast it again. If not, I found some sick looking fenderless cars out there.

What do you think about the 350 (or 383) with a 400 Turbo behind it, just like my Poncho. Yeah, I am glad I have now as well. Trying to get it registered asap before I start working on it.

Haha

 

I don't mind an automatic, but I'm old and feeble! Nothing better than going through the gears with a 4 or 5 speed till you get stuck in traffic.

 

35 needs fenders period.

 

Oldish post but it's late and I'm bored . The rear looks like a '55-'57 Chevy and the motor mounts look like Shoebox Ford. I have a '36 5 window and when I was working on the fenders off the car it looked really odd.

 

I run T400s, my small blocks have been known to break the smaller transmissions. A lot of guys run 383s, they can be a very dependable, but unless you are pulling stumps it going racing (depends on the build) they are kind of overkill. LOL I got a 355 that I built in the '90s that I got lucky when I screwed it together and I have been very happy with it through about 4 or 5 bodies.

Anyway the T400 is a good choice as far as dependability is concerned.