this is what I am using on my dodge 270 72 318 dizzy as mentioned before just drops in, so far its the only mod that has worked without slight mods to stock 270 stuff… To set the dizzy up i took a page from Don Dulmage's book "Old Reliable" I used 1 spring from the mopar spring kit and the other spring is the lighter of the 2 stock springs from the 318 dizzy as per Don's book I will not be running the vacuum advance and I will be using the coil and electronic stuff from 4 seconds flat. However I could use the mopar electronics too. as far as wire 8mm from taylor I have not fired this engine up yet but i know al will be good. keep it simple mopar for a mopar!
Guys you need to tear down one of the earlier hemi chrysler -units. Usually a good clean up and lube is all thats needed to make a really good unit. You dont need to change any springs as all the chrysler have either bendable spring tension or eccentric pins to hold the springs. I have a couple to do up and will write a post covering this adjustment. Actually it can be adjusted even installed on the engine thru a adjustment hole that provided.....
After reading multiple websites I am still confused regarding 392 vs 354 distributors. I believe the 392 distributer shaft is longer by a 1\4" then the 354 shaft. Is this correct? What is necessary to run a 392 unit in a 354? are any adapters available for this? Thanks Mike
Yes, the 392 is a 1/4" longer , and obviously, you have to shorten it. Cut the 1/4" out & use tubing to connect the pieces. Probably better off getting an LA dizzy & extend the shaft on it. Hot Heads sells the kit with the tubing & screws/pins that is used for lengthening the shaft, could also be used to shorten the 392 shaft. Someone posted that either the B or RB shaft is the right length for use in a 331/354 dizzy ( note: the shaft only, BB dizzy rotates the wrong way).
I have heard 'reports' about the tubing deal causing massive amounts of shaft run out....... It might be easier to cut the end of the shaft down and shape the tang with a good file. IMHO, if you just gotta run a 392 dist, and if you have access to a lathe, then make a spacer for the dizzy to sit on...just like MaMopar used to offer for the B vs RB dist swap. .
I ran the extended LA set up for many years on a 331 w/o problems. Forgot about the spacer, same when using a certain Brand X dizzy.
Here is something a little different. I run a msd ready to run in the stock location hooked into a fast efi box for the street. On the track the super mag four and enderle 1100 pump runs off the cam for nitro. I can run both with different timing due to the different fuels. I just leave one turned off. 32 degrees for gas 40 plus for nitro.
Does anyone know if 8mm ignition wire will fit under the stock Chrysler spark plug wire covers (screwed on top of the valve covers)? I assume that the 7mm wire will fit, but maybe I am wrong? Has anyone had crossfire issues using the stock spark plug wire covers? Any advantage to the 8mm wire in this case? Thanks!
I have run my Taylor 8 mm wires under the stock wire covers with no problems for the last 9 years. I route them very carefully and screw down the covers gently.
Anybody have experience making up a set of wires using solid/stranded Packard 440 wire, and the stock Autolite/Chrysler plug wire ends? edit--the porcelain ends
Stock small block electronic distributor with a Hot Heads shaft adapter...6AL MSD box 8MM Taylor wires....
X2 on how the factory units are good stuff, I went 9.02 at 147MPH without any hint of misfire - using stock dual points and condenser:
I run a factory LA electronic distributor with an extension tab I gas welded on. Also run an MSD 5 module. I modified stock steel tubes by hammering over the lip to squeeze the stock rubber seals. I use Toyota tube seals with the outer rim cut off. Finally I use Accel yellow wires with long silicone extenders. Works great.
My color scheme is yellow. Picked my sponsor decals to compliment the theme. In fact the whole world should be yellow!
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