Technical Lowering a 1949 Chevy rear another inch...

I'm running 3" blocks, and need to come down another inch. (Stance is everything.)
Is removing spring leafs a no-$ option?
If the springs are soft enough to drop the rear, does the car bottom out too easily? (I've got good shocks.)
Anyone try this?

 

Removing leafs will reduce the spring rate, measured in lbs/inch as in example 400 lbs per inch of deflection. This means softer ride and also more likely to bottom out since the rate will be reduced, which means the spring will move more for the same load as supplied by the bump in the road. Shocks don't really hold load, unless they are air shocks. Regular hydraulic shocks keep the spring from oscillating after the bump.

You can try removing leafs, it is basically free. If it does not work, put them back in and get the spring re-arched, which is really the way to properly do what you want. Local spring shop can do it for you, maybe even re-arch more than 1 inch so you do not need 3 inch blocks.

 

Throw the blocks away & de-arch the springs. 4'' will bottom a lot unless you know how to drive a lowered car.

 

Mo, I ran 3" blocks with a couple leafs out of the pack for a few years. Looked good, rode fairly well. Trim the bumpstops down, and get some air shocks for a a little extra lift when your loaded down.

 

I actually bought some Posies 3" drop leaf springs and it raised the car so much, I ended up having to pull a leaf out of that pack to get it back sitting proper. If i had to do it again, I think I'd de arch the original springs. Here is how it sits, sorry bout the shitty picture.

 

Have the spring eyes been reversed yet? If not it's another option to consider. Another inch is possible with this operation.

 

I bought two 2in blocks from national Chevy and welded them together to get a 4in block. Stock rear end with 205/75/15s and it rides great. Just don't put fat guys in the back seat lol.

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I've got 3" blocks, de-arched springs (can't remember how much) and reversed eyes on mine and it looks great but I need to notch the frame to get some travel back, will also need to be cautious of driveways and speed bumps.

Don't use blocks any bigger than 3" with a 15" rim or 2" with a 14", any bigger and your leaf spring plates and u bolt ends will be below the scrub line (Bad news if you ever get a flat while driving)

 

My 50 chevy sedan grapevine has dropped uprights,stepped a arms 53 vette front springs in the front, 4 inch drop springs 5 inch lower blocks. Just like Larrys. BUT you have to know HOW TO DRIVE a lowered car

 

Glad somebody finally mentioned this. Get a flat tire & the car will be down on the ubolt ends and spring plates which could rip the rearend out of the car & cause some serious damage. If you have fender skirts, I'd consider going to a shorter tire in the rear. Nobody will ever notice as long as the skirts are on. This is what I'm thinking of doing on my car

 

I used Posies 3" drop leaf springs, and am also disappointed with the results. They resulted in about a 1.5" drop. Posies position is that My old car springs were sagging an inch and a half, and the springs are designed to lower from stock. My car had barley 50K miles when done, and rear height was very comparable to factory photographs to which I compared my car. I have sat next to restored cars with new factory springs, and mine was about the same height. If I have 2 average size people in the back, I will bottom out on bumps. A chevybomb/hamb fellow recommends using air shocks with an on board compressor to adjust height when moving. Viare makes a very compact unit that will fit on the trunk shelf, hiding in front of the spare tire. Then I will add 1-2 inches of lowering block. This is how the rear sits now:

 

I agree my 4 inch drop leafs raised car about an inch

 

Good info, guys.
Roger, that's a heap of blocks! Did you notch the frame?

 

Yes

 

Raised it? I hired the installation of my posies. Supposedly the shop was a reputable, experienced restoration, street rod, do-it-all shop. When I came to pick up the car, it was on a severe rake, with the ass-end way up in the air. It reminded me of when we used to turn the shackles down on the mid-50s fords. I looked underneath and sure enough, the dumb-asses had the shackles pulled down.

 

I went to look at a guy's chevy pu build. He had 6" of block, and the U-bolt ends were hanging at least inch and a half below scrub line. He said "It didn't matter much on the rear."

 

I suggest a bigger woman
another 100 pounds or so should do it

 

Thanks, Guys.

LOL! anthony myrick, I think that may be the ticket! (Only double! )

504640, Your Chevy is just beautiful!

 

I was suggesting another 100 pounds over the current one
YEE HAA

 

yep, until the rear axle housing slams against frame, and drive shaft is banging against the floor

 

Thanks a lot Mo! I am not comfortable enough about it's status as a custom to post it as a custom on here. I was just demonstrating what the rear 3" posie drop springs will do. Expect a PM from me soon. I want to take advantage of your vast knowledge of Kustoms, and early GM to early chevy exterior parts changeability. I wanna' mild custom with bomb influences.

 

A very vivid description, JJ! Makes me cringe. My buddy is an infrequent HAMB reader; I hope he reads this!

 

MO!!! long time again mate!!! Try these guys! http://jamcosuspension.com