Hot Rods '25 T Roadster Sports Rod.

Mocked up all 3 pedals in the car. Started on the centre support.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

They look like they belong there.

 

Stewart, these look similar to my TR3. My experience was the distance between the clutch and brake was not critical. The closeness of the clutch to the cowl wasn't critical. The distance between the brake and the accelerator is very critical. The reason being is that when you depress the accelerator your shoe tends to get wedged between the brake and accelerator. This can be very exciting, sort of like a stuck throttle and not being able to step on the brake because you can't get your foot free from the accelerator pedal. Just an experience of mine that probably only happens with TR3s. Keep up the good work.

Greg

 

Greg what isn't apparent from the shot above, is the dogleg in the side of the transmission tunnel. This means that it's mainly the left side of the sole of my right foot when it's on the gas, and leaves enough room not to hit both pedals at the same time.
This had all been carefully worked out and made, then realized it wouldn't work, so carefully worked out again and moved! 3rd time was the charm.. Of course I won't admit to that in public.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Finished off the end support plates. Just got the base plate to make, and they can go in. Waiting on the M/C.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

And in the category of " Best use of a So-What Speed Shop hat", pass the envelope please. The winner is ...........................The Limey Speed Shop!!!!! OMG OMG , and you have to imagine En Vogue playing "Never gonna get it" in the background!

 

NSRA product of the year....unless you get kicked out before they pick you!

 

The pedals, m/c, and clutch cable are officially in!!
Finishing off the exhaust header and intake manifold are next.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Looking good!

 

Cheerios Aided Design at its best. I haven't taught old fashioned drafting (ya know, at a table with a pencil an a big sheet of paper) for 35 years! So using squared paper and a compass and rule, I designed and made the templates for the intake plenum. I had to retrieve Truncated Pyramids from the depths of the old grey matter. Also made the carb mounting plate. The card is the inside plane of the intake, which is why it looks too small. I will be making it out of 1/4' aluminum plate.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

I don't think they even teach that in high schools anymore... At least they don't here. I took all those classes I could get in school, probably because there weren't very many electives I was interested in. They permanently closed our metal shop class before my senior year, to make a bigger weight room for the damn football team .You should see the look on Nathan's face when I make him do trigonometry in the shop...priceless.

 

Truncated Pyramids? Didn`t they open for Ian Drury and the Blockheads once?

Sorry, Stewart, I just had to....

 

Funny, I have seen Ian Drury but it was a girl band that opened for them.
Sex and drugs and rock and roll. And I lived in Billericay, but wasn't any Billericay Dickie!
That's nearly as far back as when I taught Technical Drawing as we called it, and probably you too.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

So I made the 4 sides of the plenum. I then made a quick fixture to position them whilst they are getting welded together. The main wooden block is screwed to the board from underneath so I can remove the welded plenum, but the block will need to be destroyed to get it out of the plenum due to die lock.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

The two wings on the fixture need to be held in position with two angled screws through the center block. Remove the screws and the finished part will come off the center block and the wings will drop out the bottom.
Greg

 

Yeah, about that. I must admit to figuring that out AFTER I had nailed and glued them on!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

See, Stewart!...Actually my guesses might have been a bit to close eh? As for Tech Drawing......that goes back 40 years for me, High School classes. I taught Primary School, but, like you, was doomed to follow this stuff for a living. Maybe we really are Blockheads!

 

We called it mechanical drawing here. That was my favorite class, and it's not even available in our district anymore. The teacher and I both drove '40 Ford coupes ! That was in the late 80's.

 

Bunch of old farts aren't we eh!!
So I put the front suspension on and pushed the car to the street for a better look. The front needs to come up 1", so I will move the spring mounts down 1" on the frame rail.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Wow, that thing is SERIOUS! Great job. Thanks for posting this excellent build.

 

Looks awesome Stewart. Man its low! I had to squint in that last pic so I wouldn't have to read that ugly sweatshirt though!

 

If you are raising the front 1" for clearance, I would raise the rear 1" for looks. Love the rake it has now. Keep up the great work!

 

S'funny, I don't have any college affiliations. My friend bought it me so I would fit in with the neighborhood. It would take more than a bloody sweatshirt!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

The original plan was for 4 1/2" clearance at the front and 6" at the back. It wasn't enough rake for my tastes though. I decided on keeping the 4 1/2" at the front and raising the rear to 7". I guesstimated the position of the the front spring plates, but only 3 3/8" clearance, so I will just move the plates down 1". I don't want to lift the rear any more to help keep the air underneath causing the rear to lift, as the belly pan/floor gets mounted to the bottom of the rails from grille shell to rear valance.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Looks amazing Stewart. I can't wait to see it in person.

 

Finally got the header finished.
The welding dept at college finished the plenum, so I cut out the rough opening in the intake, but that's all I got done .
Cheers,
Stewart

 

Holy shit!

 

I like the header a LOT

 

A bit of progress, just not much to show for it.
Finished the collector flange, flex joint, and slip joint.
Cut off the spring mounts, moved them down 1" and rewelded them back on.
Modified the shock mounts and moved them up 5/8" to give more clearance above the spring.
Time for the engine and transmission to come out and get rebuilt.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Took the boring looking OEM brackets and spent some quality with my UniBits !!!
Much better looking/lighter.
Cheers,
Stewart.