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Customs 49-54 chevy engine compartments....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SLAMIT, Dec 14, 2010.

  1. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    The only time I've ever seen anyone adding support back to the firewall, is when they've converted to hanging pedals. Most guys don't worry about removing the firewall braces in the least. I've even seen where the braces were completely removed, even the firewall body to frame mount. On the 51 Bus Coupe I gave to my nephew, we used a plasma cutter to only remove what was in the way; that is the best tool to come along in a long time! I have articles from various magazines where the ribs are't even removed; the engine is placed forward enough to clear, but the radiator then has to be moved forward. In one article I had, they even kept the enclosed drive-line by modifying (lengthening) the slip yoke with a V-8 swap, and also keeping the stock 3-speed transmission. The car was being built for a woman. There are several different ways to handle the transmission mount cross member. We cut out the center section, modified a Dodge Dart cross member/mount and welded a plate to it, drilled two holes through the original, remaining cross member, and it works great. Because part of the original parking brake mechanism is riveted to the cross member, that has to be modified also. You lose the pull mechanism doing a V-8 swap, and can either move the assembly, or go with a floor mounted parking brake. The exhaust is the biggest problem with the 49-54 Chevrolet's when doing a V-8 swap. The early 265 exhaust manifolds work good, but the ports are small when a 350 or bigger engine is used; plus, the header pipes take some skill getting the bends just right, on both sides of the engine. Any rear dump style 307, 327, 350 applications work, as do the 305 manifolds for cars or trucks. We wound up using manifolds off of a 96 Caprice cop Car (they also come in Camaro's, Firebirds, Trucks); remove the tin covers, weld up the AIR injection holes, and depending on what heads you use (6 or 7 bolt exhaust) you may have to drill an extra hole. These manifolds sweep up and back, and converge into a "collector". Basically, they're cast iron headers. The gasket at the collector is metric, and we made ours using sheet aluminum, and deleted the heat riser. Wish I could post photos of our project. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  2. Thanks for the info. I will probably just remove them where they interfere and then just transition them at the bottom in a way that doesn't look too bad. We'll see how it goes. I may just remove them completely when I get in there. As for exhaust manifolds, I am planning on using the Tru-Ram style from Speedway motors. They center dump, but hug the block pretty tightly. I believe they will clear. I have the Fatman M2 ultra low kit on there so I know it moves some things around. I just received them in the mail last week and will have to mock them up before too long. I'm busy with the brakes at the moment. I'm using a 90 underdash from Kugel components so I got plenty of work to do in terms of mock up, measure, bracing, welding....
    Thanks again.
     
  3. Sir X Loin
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 127

    Sir X Loin
    Member

    Here is my 51 bay. 55 235 motor/T5. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1460804079.404713.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1460804098.670357.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1460804113.919186.jpg
     
  4. My engine is in my avatar, but not good at posting pics.
     

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