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Technical Paint question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Custompainter99, Apr 15, 2016.

  1. Custompainter99
    Joined: Jan 7, 2012
    Posts: 98

    Custompainter99
    Member
    from San Jose

    I have a customer who wants me to flame his sled..He wants satin sheen flames over a satin black car. So here's my issue...do i use a satin single stage paint (hot rod flatz or similar) or a standard base coat and a satin clear? its going over black and its a blue and i need to keep the mil thickness to a minimum cause the edge will be striped. not sure how many coats it will take for complete coverage and to get a brighter blue and not muddy up the color.....
     
  2. I think in a perfect world you would shoot the flames and clear the whole car, but flames were never shot in a perfect world. A lot of the time in days of old the pin stripe was used to hide a hard edge on scallops or flames.
     
  3. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,208

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You could go either way. I believe using base, with satin clear may yield slightly less paint thickness, though. Basecoat is 'usually' very opaque (not metallic or pearls), so 2-3 coats, then one of your clear.
     
  4. Custompainter99
    Joined: Jan 7, 2012
    Posts: 98

    Custompainter99
    Member
    from San Jose

    yeah going blue over black, i'm not sure how many coats it will take to get coverage and not a darkened blue....
     

  5. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    If I understand correctly, use a black base then a blue base that hides well and then stripe. Bury all with satin clear. Use PPG checked hiding labels to indicate that you have applied enough blue to hiding.
     
  6. or if'n you're super crafty, you could spray the blue over an appropriately shaded sealer then tape and mask the flames and shoot the black OVER it.
     
  7. 0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,783

    0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Member

    Are you going to be fogging highlights or just spraying a solid blue? If your highlighting it you would have to satin clear to protect them other wise a single stage single color would work fine . you are going to obtain about the same mill thickness either way . Never was much of a suede kind of guy. Lot of work to make a car look like it is still not finished lol! But that's just me , tastes are like opinions and we know what those are like and everyone has one . Good luck and have fun! doing flame paint jobs is my next favorite thing next to chopping them! Larry
     
  8. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,248

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm going out on limb here, and I'll make the assumption that he may well tire of it and want something different in a coule years. To that end you want to think of your efforts when it happens. Even if it doesn't there's another way and you can avoid the clear. Use a catalyzed base. This can be done with something like DBU (expen$ive) or just add a few ounces of PPG DX57 hardener in some regular base. This will give it a long life, remove the need for clear, and it will keep mil thickness down to accetpable levels. Also assuming you'll do multiple shades vs just 1 color, yes? The rule then applies "...dark to light..." as in the bright colors 1st followed by the darker ones to give good coverage with a minimum of build. The stripe on the edges, no big deal. Seriously, no worries. The striping enamel will build pretty nice on the edges of your flames. Willthe edge be seen? Yes, a little, but I don't think enough to make a fuss over. I had a couple projects with striped edges over graphics/flames/art work. It really isn't too bad and falls into the 'Form Follows Function' rule. Catalyzed base color has a nice level of UV resistance too. If you're a DuPont shooter you'll want the Chromabase and their "Base Maker" reactive reducer. Again expen$ive compared to other product lines. This is an OT car and I hope the mods will leave it just for technical reasons. The reason is how well catalyzed base holds up with no clear. I shot the white stripe on the hood in DBU base which uses reactive reducer, the reality being that it's a catalyzed coating. The car lived in hot sunny conditions all the time (it was a race car so no surprise, right?). It had been on there for almost 3 years with no sign of failure and the flat white looked really kool over the deep gloss on the green. As much as I'd like to go full size image I'll respect the board and keep it small, again it's for reference and you can open it in another tab for a really big version. Good luck...
     

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  9. Custompainter99
    Joined: Jan 7, 2012
    Posts: 98

    Custompainter99
    Member
    from San Jose

    Thanks....The car is already painted black...I'm just sprayin the flames. I'm just concerned spraying a blue over the black its gonna take a jillion coats to make the blue. bright enough to get the color he wants (for him) and keeping the mil thickness down to get an acceptable edge for striping (for me)
     
  10. thefalconer
    Joined: Aug 28, 2012
    Posts: 51

    thefalconer
    Member

    Use dupont chroma premier. It uses a catalyst. Then clear with their flat clear. Not sure of the name. Dupont basecoats cover so well compared to anything else, you will have 3 coats max.

    Sent from my SM-G900R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,248

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lay down a light coat of white 1st. Don't get near the tape edge but for just a whisp of it (like overspray). That will give you the coverage with the blue but no addl tape edge to worry about.
     
    milwscruffy likes this.
  12. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    OK the car is black. Choose a blue designated "base coat" or "base color'' or "must be clear coated" Unless labeled as "transparent" or "poor hider" or "must be applied over a specific tinted sealer" the chances are high that you will achieve hiding and the true blue color with very little build/edge.
     
  13. Custompainter99
    Joined: Jan 7, 2012
    Posts: 98

    Custompainter99
    Member
    from San Jose

  14. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    As highlander said, shoot a white, or even a white sealer over it first then your blue, much less coating
     
    Custompainter99 likes this.

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