Technical Chevy 250 HELP!

A 6 volt system, with a 250 engine?
Again here, is the battery a 6 volt or 12 volt battery?
There are no 6 volt starters that I know of, that will bolt to a standard, 12 volt, 250 engine.
Something is not right, here.

 

I am not sure what voltage the battery is then. Trust me I am just as confused as everyone. Should I get a 6volt coil or keep the new 12 volt i put into it? I am assuming if I get a 6 volt coil and that doesnt start it up something is wrong with my timing or distributor.

 

Going back and looking at your second picture, it looks like you have a 12v battery. If so, then the starter, old coil, etc. are all (or should be) 12v compatible. Timing isn't going to change on it's own from just sitting over the winter. You (and your brother) checked spark at one of the cylinders and had an orange spark. Try pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and crank it, testing the same way you did at the cylinder. If the spark is strong there, then you know the problem is in the dizzy (points and/or condenser); if the spark coming from the coil is weak, you know that's where your problem is.

A thought just occurred to me. Your car sat over the winter and wasn't run. What is the condition of the battery? A quick check with a voltage meter will answer that. If it is down, charge it with at battery charger then try the car.

 

Alright everyone quick update my car is 12 volts talked to the old owner. I could have sworn he told me it was 6 when I bought it but whatever! I finally know what the problem is me and my brother poured fuel down the carb and the whole time we pumped fuel down it ran and idled perfect. So I now know that the carb is not getting fuel. What problem is it? Is it my fuel sending unit?

 

Alright so I'm going to put a new fuel pump on tomorrow. Can anyone give me some advice when doing it? I don't have to drain the gas from the tank and drain the oil from the motor when doing it right? Thanks all!

 

I would pull the valve cover off, and make sure the valves are moving with engine cranking (at least look into the oil fill to see). The cam gear, on a stock 250, is a fiber gear, and they can break/strip. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

You do not have to drain the fuel or oil to change the fuel pump.

 

If you are going to have a long, ongoing relationship with your 1950 and its 250 engine, you'll need to do two things to bring yourself up to speed.
Buy two manuals, one for a 1950 Chevy car and one for a 250 Chevy engine.
As each issue rises, read the manual. If you still have questions, ask away. But get involved with the manuals.
Here's the online 1949 to 1953 Chevy Manual for you.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/index.htm

 

Awesome thanks for your help guys! I'm going to change out the fuel pump tomorrow and the fuel sending unit(my gas gauge isn't working and the sender is shot).

 

OK, if the gas gauge is not working on the '50, what is it doing or not doing ?

 

The gas gauge is just not doing anything. Just says Empty all the time.

 

Before taking the gas tank out or such, an empty gauge can indicate a "grounded" or "shorted" wire.
If there is a bare spot in the wiring, going from the dash gauge to the sending unit in the trunk, that bare spot will touch metal, which will show empty all the time.
To test, run another line from the dash unit to the tank unit, see if you get a reading.
If it reads, you know where the problem is. If not, time to test dash unit and tank unit.
http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/tech_tips_gas_gauge.php

 

Alright for the fuel pump on and it started up and is running problem now is for some reason it's leaking at the line that send the fuel to the carb after the pump and I keep trying to tighten it and it still leaks.......

 

This piece that I have my finger on what is this bolt called? It is leaking a small amount through the threads and I'm going to buy another bolt to fix it. I tried using bolt tape but he gas dissolves it immediately. Thanks all.

 

It's a "compression fitting" and if you don't use the "male" part, that is also a compression fitting, it will leak no matter what you do. Take the connection apart, and look at how they "bolt" together, and you'll see what I'm referring to.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Can I get a new one to fix the leak?

 

Where can I find this fitting and line? I went to every local auto parts store and they all look confused and say they don't have it or can't order it either. Can someone give me a link?

 

Looking at the last set of pictures, it looks like someone (previous owner?) mated a flare fitting to a street elbow. Both are plumbing fittings, which are not a problem (you will learn that a lot of fittings on vehicles were originally designed as plumbing items.) Measure the length of line you have now (pump to carb.) Picture also where you may need to make bends to clear stuff. (An old wire clothes hanger might make a good mock-up.) Once you get your measurements, you can then go to the auto parts store and get a fuel line that has the flares and nuts on it already that is the correct length. While you are there, pick up a tubing bender as well (if you don't have one or access to one already.) Do not try to make your bends (the new tube will be straight) without some sort of bender. It will kink (trust me), leading to an explosion of cuss words (trust me on that, too.)

If, in some future project, you do end up kinking a tube, all is not necessarily lost. You can cut the kink, buy a flare union of the appropriate size and a flaring tool and make your repair. Just remember, the more places you have joints that can come apart, the more places you can develop leaks.

 

Hmmmmmm so I have been looking around online and I have turned up with nothing about this fitting. When i try to take it off it feels like it is attached to the metal tubing fuel lines but im not sure. Does it seem I need to make a new line to the carb? Anyone have any information on this fitting or where I can get another one that will work?

 

Just looked but im not seeing any fittings like it. It seems i might have to redo the lines. We will see unless anyone else has any advice to chime in please do.

 

Have you tried a NAPA AUTO PARTS STORE ?

 

I have not, do you think they will have this fitting or something similar?

 

If you can take the fuel line and the fitting to NAPA, chances are they will be able to assist.
They seem to have more experienced guys there, which can be helpful, as in your case.

 

And the fog doesn't seem to lift for me, as it once did.

 

Alright Ill see if i can get the fitting off and if not ill take the whole fuel line off and take it. Thanks to you both.

 

Good luck to you.

 

the fuel line coming off the pump should be a 'hard line' not a rubber fuel hose, as mentioned earlier...That angled fitting that is leaking? Take it off and throw it away! Go to the auto parts store and get a steel fuel line, standard thread, not metric, about 4 feet long with a fitting on each end and bend it up. Use a piece of wire to mock it up, as mentioned earlier...that's a good tip, I usually use copper wire because its soft and easy to bend. Single strand.
The size of the fitting should be the same as the one that threads into the carb. Take that one out and bring it with you to compare the threads. Use a pipe bender tool, or carefully bend the tube around something round like an old exhaust pipe section. Don't try and get too tight of bends or you will kink the line.

 

r advice

Old Buzzard, don't worry as to what happens when you're in that fog, just appreciate the time, when the fog lifts.
Between your advice and mine, Old School knows now to visit NAPA.
We're all OK, fog or not.

 

Before I go to NAPA does anyone know of a good thread sealant that is gasoline resistant? I want to see if i can seal the leak before i start taking all this stuff off.

 

If your fittings and flares are good, no sealant is needed.