I'm mocking up my engine/trans in my A frame. 59a with 39 trans, F-1 crossmember, pedals, and master cylinder. I want to leave the stock crossmember in place as these little frames are pretty spaghetti-ish plus I want to bolt the F-1 crossmember in so I can drop it out if needed. The master cylinder is going to interfere for sure; the hookup for the torque tube to trans looks pretty tight. I posted this on the Barn and got one good answer, but that was he usually cut the stock X member out. Any other similar experiences? My thought right now is to cut down the stock X member, plate it for strength, then reconstruct some stock style flanges.
Search under roadster build, I posted pictures of my frame. used all the stuff you have. It all fits The clam shell is a challange to bolt up,but it works
I have one in my mocked up 31 roadster frame. Only difference is I am using an 8BA. I bolted my F-1 cross member in 5 7/8" to the face of the F-1 cross member or 4.75" to face of the flange from the A cross member. I have some clearance issues with my radiator but I think I have got that figured out finally as well so I can run a single belt with mechanical fan. Going to be tight but it will work. My master cylinder bolts right up to the F-1 cross member and I think I can make the clam shell work on the rear as well. It's all very tight but workable. The F-1 pedals also worked well with the steering column placement etc.
I made my F1 crossmember bolt in without removing the center crossmember. If you are using a 59a you should have no trouble getting enough room to getting it in there. I sat my engine back basically as close to the firewall as I possibly could. I did have to grind a small part off the lip on the stock model a center crossmember tho to give the master cylinder some room. Here are some pics for you to see what I'm babbling about... This one gives you a little bit of reference based on the 28-29 body mount. Here is everything painted and installed. If you'd like any measurements or more pics let me know.
I did exactly what you are attempting. I left the stock model a rear end in place which then located the later 32 up transmission /f1 crossmember. I partially boxed the frame in the f1 mount location. I modified the new crossmember by attaching a plate to both ends which then bolted to the boxing plates. This way it will drop out from below. You will have to notch/ cut into the stock crossmember for torque tube clearance unless you mount the f1 crossmember 1-1 1/2" below the top edge of the frame. Then you will not need to modify the original model a crossmember. This is what I have done. Now be creative with master cylinder. You can move the master cylinder to a further back location. Many creative solutions on this site if you search F1 crossmember on an a/v8. Good luck.
Yours looks just like mine. Real nice work.I have split bones and would really like to see how you did your wishbone as it is a better application. Sorry to hijack but I think it's pertinent to the thread.
Hey guys, thanks a ton. Ford Mike, you ended up pretty much exactly where I've been headed. Pictures truly are worth a thousand words. The firewall in my RPU has already been reversed so I can pick up an extra inch to the rear. This afternoon I started clearancing around the driveshaft, coupling, and master cylinder area. I'm going to double plate these areas to try to put some strength back in, then reconstruct a flange so at first glance it will look original.
Thanks, the wishbone is made up of the complete front wishbone from a 33 Ford 1 ton with the perch mounts of a model A grafted on the front. The wishbone ended up way longer than any stock Ford wishbone. It was way more work to do it this way, if I were to do it again I probably wouldn't because you cant drop the pan, but it worked out to be a pretty clean setup. I've grown very fond of the sweep in the rear of the bones where they mount. Everything clears, and there is plenty of room.
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