It will work. I have been obsessing over this build for years. The 36 will really set this car apart.
Heh....this is my divorce present to myself. I signed my papers...loaded up the boys...bought a 30 model a and drove it home.
yeah...1995.5 URS6 Avant. One of 300 made. Last of the inline 5, 20 valve turbo cars.. Racing and rally heritage at it's finest. 27 pounds of boost, koni sport shocks and H&R race springs, hot cams and 911 calipers. Honestly it's harder to find parts for that than the model A.
This should give you a better idea of what I bought. The Merc crank and dual carbs will go on when the engine gets refreshed. It is a running flathead. I will sell stock crank, intake manifold and carb/air cleaner etc..
That's an admirable car to emulate. It's beautiful. But you'd better have some deep pockets to match its build quality. Tom Lieb owns the Scat crankshaft company.
Even if I fall short... I know I was headed in the right direction. I can't imagine what a set of Lincoln air cleaners would set me back. I am getting with my buddy at his shop to straighten and box the frame. I have a line on a 40 rear end and front axle, wishbones etc... gonna see if I can haggle a bit on them.
A lot of guys like when resources are collected in one place. I also realize that the wealth of knowledge on the hamb far surpasses my own. I'm looking at the 40 Ford rear end and I found this useful. If it helps a newbie, great....please don't let it insult the OG guys. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1112rc-1940-ford-banjo-rearend/
Ok...the guy I bought this off of told me it was a 36 flathead. Those had 21 studs and were only good for a stock resto... This is a 59A with 24 studs. Unless my eyes deceive me. Many more parts available for this one. Did I just walk with a killer deal? Running 59A with trans, plus dual manifold, 2 97s, and a Merc Crank. I think I paid for the speed parts and got a free running 59A and trans....
Interesting: From the green book: 6049 = RH side, 6050 = LH side, both for '38 - '42 90 and 100 HP Pass, comm and 122" trucks. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47134 Anyone that has a clue about this want to weigh in?
According to hotrod magazine.... some truck blocks were relieved from the factory... http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1511-topping-off-fords-flathead-v8/ In the opinion of some engine builders relieving a Flathead block is not necessary, then to further complicate things there were truck blocks that had a mild relief from the factory. The reasons commonly given for that include reduced compression, increased performance, and less likelihood of the block cracking, and while no one knows for sure why Ford did it we lean toward the reduced cracking theory.
Trans marks.. 1937 case http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ssion-question-78-and-48-case-numbers.740074/ http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_transID_3speed-case.htm
Yes there are factory relieved blocks and the relief is basically a "slot" machined from the valve area to the bore. Given a choice, I would prefer an unrelieved block. Now days ,you have to be happy with what ever you can get. I'd say that you did well. The depth of the cut is about .100 in.
Thanks man. I have done vintage rides before. 51 1/2 ton and a 53 Buick, but this is my first traditional hotrod build. I have a lot to learn, but so far the hotrod gods have smiled on me. I almost went SBC on this, but I knew if I didn't go flathead, I would regret it and never be happy with the build. I find myself resisting the temptation to punch everyone who utters the phrase "ratrod". Expect a lot of questions. I enter this with zero ego... I am hopefully going to get the frame to my buddies shop this week to straighten it and box it. I have lots of decisions to make before I do this. I know I want a banjo rear end, and I have my flathead and trans...I was also told pedal location must be decided and the k member needs to be dropped in. Another stroke of luck allowed me to find one of these...
Weather has been crappy here in town. I quickly rattle canned a section of the car to see if my paint concept worked... I know....kinda dumb... But I think it will work when I move to a finished and proper paint job. Frame was delayed thanks to a rush of paying customers in the shop.
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