So I've been reading this for the last few minutes. Soon I'll be ready to reinstall the newly rebuilt punkin in Clarence's 8" rear. I have the paper gasket that came in the rebuild set. I had planned to use just the gasket and put it back together. Now I'm wondering. What have you guys used that was successful? What have you used that failed?
I always uses a thin film of sealer on both sides of gasket, they've never leaked or seeped once installed and buttoned down correctly. I know an old mechanic who always used silver spray paint on his gaskets, he never really explained it though, and they didn't have any leakage or seepage issues either over time.
Use the copper washers under your mounting studs for sure. If you RTV on the gaskets let it set a while before you tighten the mounting nuts.
Forgot to mention and goes with saying, make sure both mounting surface are clean and free of nicks, contamination etc or you may have a leak as things won't seal as they were designed to do.
Every one of these suggestions is the "right" thing to do, atch. I did them all and have NO seeping or leaks.
with housing mounting surface clean & truly flat using the original style gasket should seal up fine - using a quality sealer without the gasket should work OK too - you must get a new set of the correct copper washers for use under nuts to properly tighten center down - be sure to check u-joints, and axles ends for proper sealing, etc - also check brake shoes/drums
I have always just used RTV. change gears probably 2-3 times a year. never had any leaks. I do use the red HIGH temp RTV.
Right. Got the copper washers ready to go. Also new seals will be going in. New u-joints are awaiting. Backing plates and drums are cleaned and painted. EVERYTHING else in the brakes is new (springs, adjusters, etc.) except for shoes, which are nearly new. Note: axle housing is totally empty/bare right now. This has been a major mechanical redo. New GM crate 350; newly rebuilt T-350; new u-joints; newly rebuilt 8" punkin; new axle bearings and seals; "new" leaf springs; new spring pins and bushings; new brakes (see above); new shocks front and rear; etc. I think that the folks at Summit and NAPA know me by name now.
The copper washers are totally UNnecessary if you're using RTV sealer. The factory used them because it made assembly quick & easy. They weren't concerned with removal at a later time (not their problem). I never use those stupid washers and I never have differential leaks.
The silver/aluminum paint works similar to the old copper coat but doesn't have the glue component. The pigment (make sure it's powdered aluminum) fills the microscopic irregularities and helps seal, and can 'move around' for expansion/contraction. First learned this trick from a old-timer too; works great with steel shim gaskets, but will also work on thin paper gaskets. One advantage is it usually doesn't 'glue' the gasket on, making removal easier. Put a super-heavy coat on (dripping off is good) and install wet for best results.
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