Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

any loud noises yet?

 

Noises coming soon! Was setting the distributor position because of the mechanical tach cables it needs to be clocked a certain way.
Its a new build so, why not emery cloth the copper posts in the mag? Did that and tried to find where #1 was sparking - what a mess - the #1 would fire 3 times per rev and some others would not fire at all Opened the cap back up - looks ok - not dirty really - flushed it out with electronic cleaner. Then wiped dielectric grease inside the cap on everything except the copper posts. Fixed! That would have been a tough one to find at the track.

Might fire this off today - going to be 83 degrees here!

 

Looking good man! Can't wait to hear that thing fire!

 

Looks great T-Dog!!

 

Hemiiiiiiii

 

Ya think maybe the copper dust from using emory cloth on cap posts was shorting stuff out?

 

Can't wait to see this thing at Greer!

 

That's my best guess DOM. It ran fin on my distributor tester and the only think I did after that was sand the posts.

Cabbage is coming over tonight to help with the test fire

 

looking good, gonna be fast........hope that's not a fram filter....

 

Yes sir its a FRAM - but not the crappy ones at the auto parts store - these are $14 bucks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-hp1
I opened the mains on last year's engine and even the thrust bearing was fine - that poor engine was rode hard.

 

FRAM backwards is MARF... Just sayin.

 

Sorry, but all FRAM filters are crap. Even if it cost $100. Cut one open and then cut open a WIX of the same application. The WIX Racing version of that FRAM HP-1 is a 51515R. It will become obvious the difference in quality. I wouldn't put a FRAM on anything.

 

Fram's off the shelf regular filters are junk, but their racing filters are supposed to be better, but I've never seen one cut open, just the regular ones.
So I just use either a Wix Gold or Amsoil.

 

I started using the K&N filters about two years ago, also around 14 bucks.

 

didn't know about that one, saw a youtube on oil filters and they cut open several brands, the napa silver and gold, really wix, was as good as k&n and at half the price, ill check the fram out

 

Damn the rain - Paradise Drags was cancelled today so spent some time reading up on filters - FRAM is not loved anywhere
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=420509

Got the engine started the other day and planned to do more tuning at the track. Now I might just tow over to Joe's and try to bend up a proper trans tunnel

 

My Carquest guy says the Fram filter is about the worst out there. He said he would use there generic brand all day over the Fram.

 

Orange can of death , I'd leave it on for engine break in than throw it away. Change oil and put something else on. I use the Napa gold.

 

NAPA Gold are made by WIX. Same filter, just different packaging.

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I have see all kinds of filters on all kinds of car with a ton of miles.
If I was thinking a filter was going to save my ass I would be looking at something like a system one or orburg(spelling)

 

Good to see Q-n-d is getting better all the time Tony
Be good to see some video of the new engine running

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I've just spent the afternoon reading this entire thread.
Great work, great comments.
Looking forward to seeing the new engine run!

 

Didn't see this until now, got to be at road atlanta until early afternoon today,

 

Ok I'll see you after the Sunday beer sales delay is over. Think that's right after church lets out

 

Sorry, Got tied up at the track and didn't get back until after 5

 

No worries Joe - found out the brake controller on the Sedan Delivery took a dump - made for a scary ride and bailed out on the trip. Messed with the magneto again, it needs re-clocked to get the tach cables to work, so the magneto is back out again. The injection is real rich for some reason - thought a bigger cubic inch would make it lean. Need to study up on the tuning - think that short rod that goes to the distribution block adjusts the fuel at idle.

 

You would set the barrel valve with a leak down tester for your baseline then it should only take one or two flats on that rod.
I seem to remember 20% leak down

 

Let's try this again - Joe - are you going to be around on Friday? Maybe I can bend and chop a trans tunnel before the Saturday rain date event at Paradise.

 

Yep,,, should be here,

 

The rod to the barrel valve does control your idle mixture. I would flow it with a leak down tester to see where it is at now and then adjust it from there. I usually only turn mine 1/2 of a flat at a time and I also have it marked so I know what side I started on. You don't have to turn it much to lean it out and make sure u clear it out and let it run for a little bit before u move it more. Quain can probably give u better advice on it he's our go to guy for injection tuning and problems.