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Technical Electric fuel pump advice needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gareth Bell, Mar 8, 2016.

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  1. Gareth Bell
    Joined: Jan 17, 2016
    Posts: 19

    Gareth Bell
    Member
    from San Diego

    My 1952 Chevy has an electric inline fuel pump installed that likes to randomly not push enough pressure at random times and kills the engine. With the new front clip I can't fit a traditional mechanical pump, so I'll have to go with another electric. Whats the best type of electric pump for a 4 barrell carb and how should it be wired? Thanks in advance for the help
     
  2. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    for a 4bbl try the carter 4070 no need for the carter race pumps ( 4500 series) , comes with the mount and doesn't need a regulator , and quieter than a holley red pump . you will need a relay between it and the ignition switch . also mount the pump as close to the tank as possible and try to make it lower if possible , they do not like to suck fuel ( should check your intank screen to make sure its clean too ) and a filter before the pump not after .
     
    Nailhead Jason and WDobos like this.
  3. Gareth Bell
    Joined: Jan 17, 2016
    Posts: 19

    Gareth Bell
    Member
    from San Diego

    Thanks for the reply, and I'll check the. Out. As far as the relay goes, what is the need if it doesn't have a constant 12 volt source and comes on with the key?
     
  4. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    the relay has a hot lead from the battery for the pump , the key switch should control the relay , the relay kits are available from some of the merchants we have here . they come with instructions on how to wire them , just stay away from a hoffman group company , also look into a inertia switch or a oil pressure kill switch to shut it off incase of a accident ( I prefer inertias as I have had a engine continue to run when a car smacked the wall hard and caught fire )
     
    WDobos likes this.

  5. Dangerous Dan
    Joined: Jul 10, 2011
    Posts: 479

    Dangerous Dan
    Member

    Hope this helps
     

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  6. I actually had to pull the coil wire on one that climber the rail and turtled. I wonder how long an SBC will run upside down, and wide open. :eek:
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  7. HotRod31
    Joined: Mar 3, 2003
    Posts: 426

    HotRod31
    Member

    The relay takes the load off the ignition switch ,some electric fuel pumps pull a lot of amps . I have also run the Carters before , good pumps. I got mine from Summit but I think Napa carries them.
     
  8. I think the Carter 4070 pump only draws 4.5 amps. I have a 10 amp fuse on that circuit and have never had a problem.
    A relay is still a good idea if it is wired through the ignition switch.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. Got a red Holley pump in my avatar, now I need ear plugs, really noisy!!
     
  10. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Do you have a favorite inertia switch (aftermarket brand or from a type of car)? How about the oil pressure switch?
     
  11. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,778

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I agree with Stimpy. I replaced the inline on my old 46 with a 4070 and that ended the problem you have.
     
  12. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    the oil pressure switch I use is for a 70's buick 231 v-6 (pontiac sunbird ) standard #PS148 ( $4) it also had idiot light tab too .. , you can also get a universal 12 psi one from longacre ( #43600 )

    the inertia switch I use are out of most modern Fords with EFI look near the fire wall passenger side or in the trunk ( get the plug and wires , new plug is $7 thru summit) , I get them new thru rock auto complete (switch and plug ) Standard# FV 7 for $60
     
  13. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    I know the one that did the same thing at the track ran for about a minute the car ran the fuel line dry . no shut off switch and they couldn't get the door open and driver was knocked out . the only thing that saved the guy was the factory tin can aircleaner it kept the fuel fire in it and the motor kept sucking it up .
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  14. You use the same inertia switch that I like when I install one. I prefer Ford's oil pressure switch perhaps because they used to be easy to find. They came in pintos and I don't have a clue what the number is.

    You and me are a lot alike, when we find something that works for us we stay with it. The Ol' Man use to say that the mark of a good mechanic was not keeping up with the current trend but that he was consistent, he found something that works and stays with it.

    I like a roll over vent if I am using a fuel cell too. Something I learned from the roundy round guys, they were not too popular on the strip when I was still tunning regular. But if I was tuning a car that didn't have one it got one, even if I was the one paying for it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2016
  15. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,013

    belair
    Member

    I use the Carters, but they seem to go bad if they set for a while. Can't get them to work right after that. Frustrating.
    Maybe it's just been bad luck. They get a lot recommends, must be for a reason.
     
  16. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy


    them inertia switches are the best thing Ford came out with in a long time , when I wrenched and drove tow truck they were a money maker , I wouldn't charge a full hour like some guys , but would charge the customer to show them what to look for next time ( make some money for the call) , and often it got me more work for being honest about it ( specially the older folk )

    as for the oil switch I was a GM/Mopar guy, so I know what gm/mopar cars used what parts and adapt from there , my cousins are the Ford guys down to the blue oval in the underwear o_O:confused: , the inertia switch was something I ran across on when I used to flip ( buy broken , repair and sell ) cars , I had bought one that this was the problem , the switch was bad . kind of feel bad about buying the car cheap , but it took me the better part of a day chasing it down . they guy had $$$ in it trying to fix the problem from other shops .

    as for fuel tank and cell vents , a rollover valve in the tank , 3 coils of tubing and a cheapie fuel filter in a can ( sintered bronze , Russell 651660 $10 )) or k&n filter ( Ru-3170 $25) on the end of the pipe . .

    I had one customers car that would fume the garage out when it sat ( very bad to the point of concern ) , I had to set it up like a O/t car with a charcoal canister and vent selenoid , works real good and hidden out of eyesight plus it keeps the gas fresher longer as it doesn't absorb moisture . makes the guy happy too .

    the ford switch number is motorcraft SW1311 , its a switch they used on 90% of there idiot light cars made in the US . Blue standard #PS130 Is from the welders I used to work on ( Hobarts with a Ford 200 I-6) ( I cheated and ran down to look at the boxes in the garage:rolleyes: )
     
  17. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    I like them as they are cheaper than a Holley , and hell of a bunch quieter too , plus I can get it at my auto parts store vs . special ordering it or going to a speed shop ( which is very dangerous to my wallet ) .
     
  18. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,278

    Corn Fed
    Member

    You guys are what make the HAMB great. All the tricks and knowledge from roundy rounds, drag racing, and hot rods wound up into one site. I've learned some important things I didn't even know I needed to do to my current project just by stumbling into a conversation. I even have part numbers now too. Thanks for the help.
     

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