Technical Dropped heavy axle and 1932 spindles

Use the perch bolts as-is. Get a pair of Lovejoy/Armstrong shocks (MGB rears).
All bolt holes line up on frame, then get Model A "balls" for the end of the shock arms and a pair of Model A/B dog bone links. Looks cool, works great and it's traditional.

Also, on my 32, I heated and bent the steering arms and reversed the taper on all three holes to keep the tie rod above the wishbone and keep the drag link level.

To use the 32 spindles, I got the Lincoln brakes from Richard Lacy that are made to be used with the 32 parts. Everything works great.

 

I know those Armstrong-shocks look nice but I have to live with these I have. They are from model a, I suppose I will just change the rear shock arm to longer front ones. There's no holes in the frame for them, any advice for me before I start adjusting those?

 

I'm new with lever shocks. Is this the correct position? That plug is not on the top, but this is how they were on my model a.
I suppose they are fine, but I want to make sure.

 

Ilari
Go over to the Fordbarn site and check in the Model A forum
I don't know much about Model A shocks at all, but would think that the
filler would need to be in the up position.
Also, I apologize. I didn't realize that you already had the shocks to use.
Another item: do those shocks work? Do they leak? Do the adjusters work?
Reason I ask, is that Model A shocks are quite expensive to rebuild, and some of the rebuilt ones are highly suspect.
Again, go to the Fordbarn and check & ask about them

 

Those shocks have been rebuild. They may leak a bit, not much. I tried first to place the filler on top, but the shocks don't have enough play in the upper end. I need to check model a forum. Thanks!

 

Play in the upper end is about 2,5" now, I will lower the front end by turning the leaf ends, so it will be like 1" less. I need to check if the shock movement can be adjusted.

 

How I did mine, I cut the break pivot off, but it didn't need to be, I just didn't like the look of it.

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Ill snap some pics tomorrow of the arms i bent around to clear the axle.

 

Best for me would be to see how much to bend the lower arms and where. Upper arm I will bend to follow the axle.

 

I generally try and get the tie rod below the bones so i dont have trouble with it getting pinched between the bones and frame if i have a flat front spring in there

 

Thanks, I will just bend the lower arms as close as I can where it starts in the spindle and straighten it so that tie rod moves freely under the bones.

 

You will also need a tapered reamer to move the tie rod under the bone.

 

I feel lucky. I just found pair of spindles from my own storage I did not remember. They are quite close to that axle, just fine tuning needed.