Technical Dropped heavy axle and 1932 spindles

I would like to use original spindles in my 1932 roadster. I have this mor-drop axle and there seems to be issues to make it fit with spindles. Has Anyone solved this problem before? I'm asking because I don't want to ruin the spindles if they wont fit at all.

 

Are you running mechanical brakes? if not cut that crap off the top of your spring perch bolts then all you have to do is bend your steering arms to make it work.

 

Brakes will be next issue, I think mechanical brakes wont work with this axle anyway. I would not like to cut perches, but there's another issue with these too. The arms hit axle when turning.

 

Yeah don't do that those bolts are worth good money. Buy some aftermarket ones that aren't worth shit and don't have the uneeded ball and eye or just bend the arm like cool guys like me do and show off your cool vintage Ford parts. Your gonna have to bend the arms for the tie rod anyway. Butchering the spring perch bolts is a mistake

 

Better view.

 

Yeah the arm gets turned down like 90 degrees right where it attaches to the spindle. Then you heat near the tapered eye and turn the eye back to horizontal. Common modification for dropped axle

 

Ok, great to hear it's doable. If anyone has a picture of modified original spindle, i would appreciate. These ones have already been modified some.

 

I tried to use 1940 ford spindles with superbell 4" axle and I could not get those to work at all.

 

Look in the dropped axles and esthetics thread there will prolly be examples there. I thought I would have a pic on my profile pictures but at a quick glance I guess I dont

 

Why is that a mistake? Maybe you could elaborate. You already confessed that the piece that I suggested that he cut off is useless and if he stays with henry which he already has he will have a quality bolt. Cutting the top off the perch bolts is hot rodding 101.


@Ilari you have to heat and bend the steering arms down to clear the axle. It is a simple task of snagging a torch and heating them up then bending them down.

 

Yeah I've never seen a dropped axle on builds that ive been involved in or been around that didn't need the spindles fiddled with so the damn thing would steer. Usually there's also having to get the tie rod above or below the wishbone depending on how deep the drop is. Its a matter of mocking it up on the car and seeing what will function the best.

 

I'm sure I don't have the same problem with this axle that I had with superbell. Shape of the axle is different.

 

I know I could have have used aftermarket arms with those 1940 spindles but I like original the best.

 

Its not functionally a mistake unless he wants to run knee action shocks but that's not what I was saying. The last set of 32- 34 bolts I bought were 160.00 plus the ride with iffy threads. The pair before that were cheaper but I had to rethread them and turn one down a bit but I was happy to get them.

The aftermarket or factory model a ones are cheap. That's all I'm saying. When you got guys that are like me who are dumb enough to pay real money for that stuff why not cash in. Just trying to save the guy a 100.00 bill

 

Heat & bend the arm, don't cut the perch pins. Mechanical brakes will work fine; you just need to extend the actuator mount on top.

I'm using a rear shackle plate to space the actuator up to line with the kingpin cup.;

 

Also he may like the look of that stuff intact like a lot of folks including me do. Just wanted him to know it can be left and function. Not starting a pissing match. Skinning cats different ways bro

 

Gwhite I'm loving your raised brake setup. I've had 2 mechanical brake hot rods. Sick bro

 

Well if I paid attention to the TV commercials my prostate is about as big as a cassava at this point so you would win a pissing match.

I have always been a minimalist and cut off or unbolted anything that my ride didn't need to function. My excuse has always been to save weight but you know what an excuse is right? its like a sausage the skin of the truth stuffed with a lie.

 

Haha funny stuff^

 

Thanks...I'll end up spot welding those shackle plates to make sure they stay put. I have to admit, this isn't my idea; I stole it from the pics posted on the "Lakes Pictures P.R.C." thread;




A more sophisticated approach would be to extend the perch pins;

 

I may use those mechanical brakes, or may not, but I hope I can use uncut perch bolts.
This is what I have now, mechanical brakes and no shocks. I'm planning to use those model a shocks. Arms need to be bent to fit.

 

Don't ruin those original `32 perches. The threads don't stick out the bottom of the wishbone far enough to attach tube shocks to. You can buy a pair of forged steel perches from Speedway part # 910-33047 with the longer threads for $ 40.00 , then a pair of their forged steel shock mounts part # 910-36105 for $ 25.00
Those original `32 perches have sold for twice that on eBay recently. You will also have a difficult time mounting late 40's hydraulic brakes to those `32 - `34 spindles. A pair of new forged `40 type spindles and bolt on forged steering arms from Chassis Engineering will solve the steering arm clearance problem with your dropped axle.

 

If indeed you decide to stay mechanical I have some mechanical brake pieces that I will not be using. I am sure we could figure out a way to get them to your house in a pinch.

 

Oh, by the way that is a sweet looking axle you have there. Is that an old original "Mor-drop" ?

 

Every single dropped axle front end I prepare for '32-'34 Ford's uses the stock spindles. If you would like to know how to use the '32 spindles on your '32 dropped axle follow the link as I showed in gory detail how this is done on the '32 Pickup I just built for myself. I also explained why it's beneficial compared to the later model spindles most people automatically use.

Regardless of what year spindles are being use, every style require re shaping the steering arms to work with a dropped axle so it's not just a problem with the '32-'34 spindles.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-pickup-rebuild-thread-updated-1-11-16.970252/page-4

 

Like they said, heat and bend. I did cut the unused brake mount on the drivers side, could have, should have ended up leaving it. Used 40 ford brakes.

 

Thanks. I can't tell, but it's mor-drop style axle and old one. As far as I know they did not stamp their axles.

 

Very nice data and perfect dropped axle. Is it dropped 2-2,5"? That would be perfect to me, but I need to live with what I have now. It's not bad either compared to superbell axle.

QUOTE="Dennis Lacy, post: 11415689, member: 55171"]Every single dropped axle front end I prepare for '32-'34 Ford's uses the stock spindles. If you would like to know how to use the '32 spindles on your '32 dropped axle follow the link as I showed in gory detail how this is done on the '32 Pickup I just built for myself. I also explained why it's beneficial compared to the later model spindles most people automatically use.

Regardless of what year spindles are being use, every style require re shaping the steering arms to work with a dropped axle so it's not just a problem with the '32-'34 spindles.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-pickup-rebuild-thread-updated-1-11-16.970252/page-4

[/QUOTE]

 

Come on Beaner, don't you know? Every time someone cuts the top off a 32-34 spring perch, an angel loses it's wings!