Good thing about Dodge and Plymouth is that the flathead six was used in the cars up until 1959 and trucks 1960. The dodge military 3/4 ton M37 used the flathead six up till 1968. You can still find the motors and trans with a little leg work. Good luck on the build.
If you have an idea where some parts might be can you let me know. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
318 or 360 from a pick up or van are rear sump & drop in nicely, guess a /6 from one would too if you have room for it to lean.
I have a bunch of Ford stuff sitting in my garage I'll just use that if I'm going non stock. It'll cost me a lot less money wise. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Most commonly for the older stuff it is on the front, however, 4x4 and late-model pans have sumps in other places. Even if it was front-sump, it may be possible to switch it.
I have a 289 the sump is in the rear and I have a 300 straight six that I might try and squeeze into the car the sump on that is in the rear. I have all the stuff for a complete running gear if I shoe horn the 300 in the car. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have been thinking about it I if I can find a good donor car I really want to run a flatty in the Plymouth. I think I would be happier with a flat head and three on the tree trans. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The other engine trans option I have been throwing around is a slant 6 and a three speed out of a 78 Dodge van the guy wants to trade it for a dirt bike and my buddy has a dirt bike his brother in law left at his house he said I could have it so it would mean a free can for me. I would just have to find a different rear axle and I have one out of a 76 Granada. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well my neighbor has a line on a trans for the flat head he also believes he knows where I might be able to find an engine. I have been thinking about this car like you do and after I lower it and finish the few body mods I want to do I'm going to rethink the chop as of right now I want to chop the car but when I have it running and driving I might change my mind I'll have to see what I decide when I get to that point. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Nice car to start on, but like a few have said, hold on the chop and concentrate on getting it going, that will help to keep the motivation up, with the right combination of engine/gearbox and bellhousing the 230 used up to 59 will work, even the Desoto/Chrysler 6 version which is 25" long against 23 of the Dodge/Plymouth version will fit but will require some surgery.........it all takes time but its a good start you have there.........the P15-D24 Forum is definitely worth getting on as those guys know their stuff........regards from Oz........Andyd
So I just got off the phone with a guy up in Idaho who has a 1950 turtleback Plymouth just like mine. He called me because I threw an ad up on a local classified web site looking for a drive train for my car. He is just going to give it all to me because that way it will get used and won't go to the scrap yard. He wasn't sure the condition of the motor he said the carb is gone. This is a good start even if I need to go through the motor. I'm pretty excited about it because I really wanted to run a flatty. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Instead of a chop (when the time comes) how about a nice 3-4" section? Here's a quick digital version for your consideration.
It looks ok but I'm really not a big fan of sectioned cars Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You get yourself a real nice 230 from the late 50s, 132 hp, add a dual carb intake and split the exhaust and warm up the cam, and you be pushing another 25 to 30 hp. With the right cam, lot's of torque will take a lot of fuel you can throw at it. Use a Chrysler A833 trans, a 4 spd OD trans from a Volare/Aspen, requires a simple $140 adapter plate, combine this with a 3.73 rearend, lots of get up and go, and the overdrive nice for hughway cruising. The front end and steering on these car were light years ahead of the competition, just rebuild, and as mentioned relocate front shock mounts, front disc brake conversion and you are good to go. The other nice idea would be a 250 or 265 Chrysler long block, but this requires moving front mounts ahead, and the rad too, not that big a deal. Good luck, these old flatties are great, just came back from a ride in my 55 Fargo truck, flattie 250, 4 spd trans 3.23 rearned, and it's winter here.....they run great are reliable, and can take a shit kickin, just keep the oil up. The can handle unleaded gas no problem, they have hardened valve seats from the factory....
Most likely a 218, but could be a 230 if someone had swapped it in over the years, 3 spd trans, heck you can find a Borg &Warner R 10 3 spd overdrive trans they bolt right in, but they are getting real expensive and are harder to find too. Here is where to check Mopar flathead engine numbers to see what you got,http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php
I love the truck it is pretty cool. Yeah I'm pretty sure it is probably a 218 and I'm good with that. I would love to find an overdrive trans I think nothing would be better for drivability than being able to cruise at 70 on the highway. I really want to leave the car a three on the tree so that was one of the main reasons why I wanted to find a flathead. One of the other big reasons is that bolt in parts are nice and I don't have to modify a rear end to fit. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That same adapter would let you run an AX-15 and Bellhousing from a V-6 or V-8 Dakota The AX 15 is a nice top shifter trans, and the best part is Junkyards are loaded with them for ~200-300.00 The A-833 is getting expensive and harder to find. As for a rear end a Ford Explorer 8.8 comes in at the correct width, has disc brakes, and is the correct 5 on 4.5" pattern. Plus the Explorers come with the bigger 31 spline shafts and 3.55 3.73 or 4.10 ratios. I bought one for my 53 Suburban for 75$ and it even had new brake pads and good rotors. The pic a part yards around here are loaded with them. The only mod needed was new spring perches. On the 53 I made an adapter and used a T-5 from a 96 Mustang, The mustang driveshaft was an inch too short, so I made a steel 1" spacer to go between the flange on the rear end and the yoke of the driveshaft. That way a Stock Mustang Driveshaft is a bolt in replacement The 218 will be fine, the big thing is bumping up the compression, mill the head .060 to get it up to 7.5 to one, you can modify a GM 4.3 Dizzy to work and give you a nice 12V HEI, or buy one from Langdons.
Really, how is the adapter, that goes on the stock flathead 6 bellhousing, that allows the A833 trans to bolt on going to work with the Dakota bell and trans? Just trying to figure out what you are stating, as I don't see how this will work... No need for a GM dizzy either, I have taken a Slant 6 electronic ignition distributor, and use the flathead 6 dizzy shaft to create an electronic ignition for cheap.This can be used with a GM HEI module too.We are assuming the OP wants to convert to 12 volt neg from 6 volt pos too. Shaving the head is a good idea, with that, a dual intake, and dual exhaust you will end up with about as much as a stock 230, which ain't bad. Ford exploder rear end, yes a workable choice, as there are many others. I happened to use a Mopar 8 1/4 from a 1988 dodge truck in mine, almost the same width, no disc brakes, these come in limited slip too..
Here are some adapters, that are made by AoK Racing, aka George Asche and Tim Kingsbury. These adapters allow the Chrysler A833 trans to bolt to a stock flathead bell housing using the stock clutch, flywheel/ring gear and starter.
As to the trans adapter, the one I am referring to is a plate that adapts the back of the block to the Mopar A engine bolt pattern, granted you have to figure out a rear motor mount, but it is easier to swap in hanging pedals and use a hydraulic clutch: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=224 As for the Distributor, the GM HEI from a 4.3 can be bought from any local Pick a part yard for 20$ Around here, the /6 is getting scarce. I have not seen one in a local Junkyard for at least 5 years. I lost the link to the How too to make it fit, but less than an hour on the lathe and mill and it was ready to install, for a total of 45$ it was in and running with a new cap and rotor. The 218 with split exhaust, dual carbs and 8 to 1 compression will flat out run and hide from a stock 230. In your truck application the 8 1/4 is a great choice, but in a car the width is too much. and the trucks used a 5 on 5.5 pattern so the wheels would not match the front. The 8.8 just needs the perches replaced and it slips right in. The OP stated he was OK with disc brakes and the 8.8 already has them with nice parking brakes in the hat of the rotor, and are a dime a dozen, a good 70% of them came with a limited slip diff as well.
Obniously I went with a T-5 trans, and made a simple aluminum plate adapter to bolt the trans to the stock bell housing with an indexing ring. Swapping the input shaft from a fox body trans to one from a SN95 gave the added length needed, and a S-10 clutch disc fit the T-5 input shaft and the stock Mopar flywheel, pressure plate and bell housing. If I were to do it agan I'd go with the AX-15 again because of cost, even the T-5 transmissions are getting expensive, especially the World Class version which is more HD.
The Jalopy Journal
