I have a 1946 flathead ford, new head gasket, pertronix converted distributor, eddy Meyer intake with 2 stromberg (back carb has a 1" aluminum riser with vacuum), electric fuel pump. Car start and run fine on open road (180degrees), as soon as I hit city or traffic temp goes up to 190/195, after few miles it start running rough until it dies on my, usualy when I stop to a light or stopped in traffic. Gas arrive to the carbs and there is sparks but cant restart. After cooling down for 30 minutes it start again and goes until I get stuck in traffic and dies again. I'm thinking of some sort of vapor lock, any advice on what do to and check??
Very good post on this issue. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/i-need-a-flathead-experts-advice-on-bogging.401394/
[QUOTE=" I'm thinking of some sort of vapor lock, any advice on what do to and check??[/QUOTE] Its called a" Petronics lock"...
The stock distributor is far superior to petronix, but most people don't know how to maintain their points distributor so they opt for petronix, mallory, msd etc
I know you said a 46 Ford flathead but is that just the engine or the car too - if it's the car too why don't you remove the hood and do some driving to see if it acts up again - if it does it will narrow it down some huh?
I had a similar thing happen on my '39. Turned out to be the coil. Check everything in your electrical system, if your coil is getting really really hot, like mine was, get another. Any bad electrical connections, or faulty equipment, will mimic carb problems....
I have had a rebuilt engine with a fuel pump pushrod bushing that was just a bit too snug. Did the same thing. When it got hot the rod would expand and stick in the up position. No go. Took a while to figure that one out. I installed an auxiliary electric pump. The rod wore in and doesn't cause a problem any more but having a backup pump is sure nice, and vapor lock is never a problem with an electric pump back by the tank. Heat can get to electronic ignition systems. I run stock ignition with never a problem. Change your coil and condenser and see what happens. These engines were known for hot start problems but if everything is right they're problem free. Good luck.
As I said, I don't run mechanic fuel pump and don't have condenser. I'm thinking to get a set of phenolic spacer, did anyone had good experience with those spacer??
So,,you are ignoring the advice here from several posters,on replacing the damn Petronics?? Spacers are not a solution to your problem
No, I am not ignoring any advice and use everybody experiences as a great source of info. I just had my distributor rebuilt 3 weeks ago, all tested and tuned, I know that some doesnt like pertronics but some love it. Why would the pertronix cause vapor locks? I checked an there were sparks but it still didnt started.
Sounds like vapor lock, try the spacer to cool the carbs. I have also seen people putting a cloths peg on the fuel line near the carb to help cool. Not sure what success rate was like.
Just for the heck of it bring a cooler with a bag of ice in it, When car stops wrap the ice bag around the carb so as to lower temp. Then try and start the car. If it starts you may have vapor lock. Also, when it stops disconnect the fuel line and see if you are getting fuel to the carb. What kind of electric fuel pump are you running?
after it stop we removed the air filter and checked both carb, gas was getting to both carb, sparks plugs had sparks, plugs wasnt soaked and looking pretty dry. I dont remember how many psi is the pump but when I bought it I got one to run with the stromberg, not too high psi, it is located near the tank undernath the cabin.
Yes, carb may be getting gas, but is it enough gas? Could front carb not having a 1 in. spacer also cause this? Will it run on one carb? I think fuel pressure should be 2 1/2 to 3 psi max. Have you rebuilt the carbs? Also, if you start the car and just let it run (idle) in your driveway until the temp reaches 180 or higher, does it still stall out if you then give it gas as if you were on the road? I your gas tank or gas cap vented?
Bill,Thats usually true...but as you read this guys posts,I wonder why he even asked here when ignoring the answer he doesnt want to hear.
wbrw32.... I'm listening and considering everyone experience, I am just using other people advice to try to fix my problem... so if you don't have anything constructive to say just don't waist your time and move to a different thread, as so far you are the only one who didn't give any advises but only commented on other people reply. If there was only 1 way to fix each problem it would be to easy.
In 2013 and 2014 my flathead powered '32 did the old "overheat and die" waiting in line to get into the Fourth of July Goodguys in Des Moines. I'd pull to the side and let it cool for a half hour and it would start up again and drive in. The only other time it ever died like that was when I was stuck in stop 'n stop traffic on the Interstate south of Minneapolis once. Never done it any other times. But not many other times I sit idling in traffic during scorching summer days. Symptoms were rugged running like it didn't have enough gas. Cured by letting the car cool off. I was not in a position to stop and check for proper fuel flow or spark in those locations. Last spring before the summer season I installed phenolic spacers under the carbs. But then I didn't get stuck in line like I usually do so I couldn't put them to the test. I do think it was fuel related though, not electrical. My car has a '39 Merc flathead with a '42 distributor, two 97's on a tall Weiand intake, an electric fuel pump, a stock fan mounted on the generator up top, and a Walker radiator that usually runs about 180 degrees going down the road. I am considering installing a thin, unobtrusive fan shroud though.
The Jalopy Journal
