Projects '32 Ford 5 window coupe, rear suspension

I am building a 32 5 window coupe. Putting a model A rear crossmember and a rear spring from a '30 model A sedan in it. I think I am going to remove a couple of leafs (#3 and #4) as the '32 coupe isn't as heavy as the sedan was. My question is... how much should I preload that spring so I can locate the perches on the new rearend?

 

How about you bolt the spring into the crossmember, and place large blocks/planks under the ends of the spring so the whole car is supported on them. Like the rearend would do if it was under there. Then bounce around in the back seat a bit to settle the car.

Measure the spread of the spring eyes, then add the distance that the shackles would take up if they were at 45 degree angle. That would be the distance you need for your spring hangars. Actually, I'd add another inch because the spring might actually settle a bit more after driving a while.

 

An A spring rides a lot worse than a stock 32 spring or a 40 front spring. Are you going to put in a QC? That is the only reason to put in an A spring.You don't have to cut up the floor or change the crossmember with the 40 front spring. They ride extremely well.

 

Yes. We are putting a qc under it. Was hoping to get the spread so i can locate the perches

 

Set your perches at the distance of the perches on a stock A axle. Someone will have to verify, but I seem to remember that the distance is 48-1/2" eye to eye.

 

Thanks.. everyone
This is an original spring. Had a Model A 2-Dr Sedan a few years ago that I changed to coil overs.

 

Check out Havlir House of Fab for your spring mounts - he has them for the quickie ....

 

Unpack the spring,.... Place the main leaf on a flat surface,... Take a Center to Center measurement of the eyelets at neutral pressure..... Add 1" to 1-1/2",..... Then take the shackle "center to center" dimension times two, Add that to the mix, and you should have your "center-line" for your shackle mount position. You can make a simple welding fixture with a piece of square tubing and a couple bolts.

As stated above,... The Model A Rear spring is heavy and harsh,... I would consider taking out every other leaf in the pack and starting from there... (and even that might be too much spring).... you'll have to play around with it.

A long time ago I posted a safe and easy way to unpack a spring..... It might still be on here somewhere.

 

I found the thread ! ,..... As with most posts here on the HAMB,... A lot of "Keyboard Warriors" And "Armchair Engineers" try to throw a stick in your spokes..... All I can tell you is that this is the least expensive, safest and easiest way I have unmounted, mounted,unpacked and re-packed transverse springs for many decades....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/re-visiting-the-very-cheesy-1-79-spring-tool.646689/

 

Thank you... this looks like a good plan. With any luck will be doing this tomorrow

 

Again. Thank You to everyone

 

Put the perches at 48-1/2" it will work just fine. My a coupe has a 38 rear,model a spring,7 leaves, the perches are at 48-1/2", rides decent.

 

take a piece of angle iron and drill 2 1/2" holes 48 1/2" CL apart use a couple short pieces of pex or abs tubing where yous shackle bushings go so you dont ruin your bushings taking them out for paint
bolt the angle to your spring hanger brackets using it as a jig to keep them paralell
and to keep the angle the same
you could borrow mine but Maine is a long way from washington
Bruce

 

Again Thankyou

Thanks for the offer.... but it would be to far..

 

One last thing,..... You might want to just "TACK WELD" your spring hangers for right now and make sure you tack them in a area easy to get to with a die grinder, So as the build progresses you can cut them loose in case you need to adjust for your "pinion angle" with a fully loaded suspension.

There would be enough movement in the shackles to adjust for it later,... But it would put them in a bind,... And anything in a bind in a suspension system will effect ride, longevity, parts fatigue.... & potential parts failure... In fact, ever sense my second hot rod build,... I tack everything then finish weld it when I blow it apart for finish assembly.... Just a option for you, Cause cutting stuff off to adjust it, is a pain in the neck.

 

View attachment 31289 43[/ATTACH] this is the look we are going after, maybe a little larger wheel/tire on front

this is what I started with. We have the history of the car, we are the 3rd owners. I have preserved the original running gear and our plans for now are not to chop it. Going to leave it patina

 

Well Skunk, it looks like your in line for an "official" pair of Rolling Bones split wishbones & drilled axle ! Taking orders.

 

wow thats a cool survivor
how about get it running with a 59 A b and a 39 trans ,dropped big beam,juice brakes,big and littles and run it full fendered
you dont find too many survivors like that
I was only kidding about borrowing the angle iron I'm sure you could come up with one on your own
like harms way said just tack everything first
but why even put a Q/C in a nice survivor like that
as time goes on survivors are going to be the most sought after cars

 

Wow! just Wow!

 

That would be cool. Rick

 

This is how she is looking now

 

ouch

 

should have left that one together and chopped up your jeep
could have sold that for a profit and bought a 5 window body to chop up
there goes another surviver

 

Not to worry. Nothing has been cut. Just disassembled. Its on a new frame and the fenders hood and running boards are in the barn

 

Hey AWD, your spring hangers are on upside down on that axle.

 

I know. But only for a little while. Thanks

 

No,the axle is upside down,see the drain plug?

 

So did you keep the original frame?