Projects Cavalier r and p

I have started working on my 1951 Plymouth again. I'm using the Fatman mounts for the steering and wondered if anyone had used anything similar and had any advice. A friend suggested flipping the arms on the wheels so the tie rods connect in front of the drums instead of behind.

Thanks

 

If I correctly understand what your friend is suggesting, you will have a car that steers opposite the driver's input...........

R&P units are either rear steer or front steer......

In addition to which, the Plymouth 'A' arms are kind of swept to the rear. That would place the rack well ahead of a straight line to the steering arms and upsets the geometry. Also, the Ackermann built into the rear steering arms would be all wrong if they were merely switched around.

Ray

 

Thanks Ray. I didn't think that would work too well.

 

Are they rear steer configuration? If so very much like local GM R&P. This is a picture I store from the net, you can see it wasn't set up correctly and there would be bump steer. The pivots need to align with axis of lower arms. A friend did a similar conversion on his 47 Olds and bolted a thick flat plate to R&P where the steering arms in the picture attach. He used OEM steering arms and replicated OEM geometry, original plane of steering arm with box and idler arm, with a 1999 Daewoo Lanos R&P. No bump steer and power assist.

 

Do you think you could find out more about what Hyundai unit was used? One problem with these retrofits is said to be the total throw - losing turning radius is a problem sometimes. A new donor source is worth looking into.

 

The original Plymouth tie rod geometry is nothing to brag about. They have a short and long tie rod that attach to the pitman arm. They do not appear to be aligned with the A arm pivots . Not saying I endorse either the original setup or the Cavalier R & P, just conveying what the OEM system is/was.

Ray

 

Thanks for the input everyone. It looks like the steering linkage it's going to be interesting too. The mounts I have will have to be cut before welding them to the frame. The guys who built the car originally hacked out a big chunk of the frame so that will get patched at the same time.

 

Best wishes with your project. The OEM suspension and steering actually drive quite well. I tell you this from decades of experience with older Mopars. Two significant improvements are 1) remounting the upper shock to a frame bracket from the upper A arm, and 2) adding a heavier anti roll bar (aka 'sway bar'). The latter can be sourced from a Jeep Cherokee from the '90s. Bolt on disc brake kits are also readily available.. If your frame is hacked badly enough, you might consider a Fatman front clip assembly. Probably as easy to install as making significant repairs to the chassis. Or, a replacement frame from another Plymouth of that era. I think the chassis are the same '49 thru '52, although there are two wheelbases, 111" and 118".......the latter far more common. The 111" was used only with business coupe, 2 door fastback sedan and all metal Suburban wagon.

Ray