Technical trunk mounting battery in my '56 Chevy 150

I'm trying to round up the parts and get the answers I need so that(hopefully) I will be driving my '56 this summer. Car is a 1956 Chevy 150. It has an old marine style box. I already have a bracket mounted and a hold down strap for the box. But I have yet to run the cables or anything. I have had cars with trunk mounted batteries before, but they were all purchased that way. So this is my first time moving one myself. Any tips are appreciated.
The questions I have so far are:

1) I know I need to have the engine/frame/body grounded to one another. In order to have one less hole in the floor, I am planning to ground the battery to the body inside the trunk. Is this acceptable as long as the body ends up grounded to the frame?

2) I've read a bit about venting the battery. Since I will be using one of the 100% sealed batteries(Optima), this is mute point isn't it?

3) Should the positive cable be run under the carpet or along the frame? FYI I ran the fuel line inside the frame because I am running fenderwell headers.

4)I am planning to use a disconnect switch(mostly just so I don't feel the need to unhook the battery whenever I'm not driving the car). I probably won't be racing the car. Any suggestions where to mount the switch? Which switch should I use?

5) I have also read a bit about having a remote solenoid. It this really necessary? Or just an extra safety option? I ask because I had an old drag car for years that only had the OEM solenoid and I never had any troubles... of course I know that doesn't necessarily mean it was right.

Thanks

 

1, Ground it to the frame
2, No vent on the AGM batteries
3, Run the positive cable along the frame with insulated straps
4, Be sure to buy the high amperage switch, Taylor makes a good one.
5, Fenderwell headers will let the solenoid live where it is on the starter

 

Just out of curiosity, what is the advantage of grounding to the frame initially? I am just asking since it was originally grounded to the firewall.
Also, do I want to run the cable on the outside of the frame rail since the fuel line is on the inside? Or does it not make any difference?

 

You can't have too many grounds. I run a ground strap from the engine block to the frame and frame to body.

 

I always took battery grounds to the frame. On stock cars, I welded a bolt to the rollcage kicker and grounded it there. It is a much better ground overall. I always ran the positive along the outside of the frame rail so it won't chafe through the holes. Also easier to secure and keep an eye on.

 

We saved an old kustom '57 that had the battery mounted to the floor above the trunk but behind the seat. I built a bulkhead for the front of the trunk, which created a pretty large hidden storage space.

 

The best battery ground is running the negative cable to the engine block, and then smaller grounds from the engine to the body and frame.
Optima AGM batteries are sealed, but can gas if over charged, and should be able to vent through the floor in a trunk or interior location.

 

This is what I was planning to do. Where did you attach your ground straps? What did you use for ground straps?

 

Will the venting still work even though the battery box doesn't seal up tight where the cables are supposed to go?

 

Moot

 

With the battery in a sealed box, run the cables through grommets installed with RTV, and seal the cables to the grommets with RTV. Run a vent hose to the outside of the vehicle.

 

Run your grounds to what ever you want, just be sure they include the frame, engine block, and body. The bigger they are and the more of them, the better. Best is to run a ground all the up to the engine, right along the positive cable, then split from there to the frame and body. Every joint, being a weld or bolt, has resistance, the more joints, the more resistance. One ground cable from battery to starter mount, equals two connections! How many welds and cables will go through before getting to the starter if you ground it at the rear?

A remote solenoid will not be needed.

Run the positive cable inside or outside the frame, doesn't matter, just be sure to secure every few feet and insulate it from any sharp edges. Also, be sure the cable is above the scrub line and no matter what you run over, it won't get hit. Fuel line can run along side the cable with no problems.

Cut off switch should be in the rear close to the battery, outside trunk if you are racing, inside for normal everyday cars. Get the heavy duty type, cheaper is not better in this case.

Use #2 or bigger cable, welding cable is very flexible and works great for this application.
Vent the battery box to the outside, it's not that much more work.

 

I am told that I will want the top of my vent tube toward the top of the battery box. Is this correct? Would it be better to use clear hose or hard plastic tube of some sort? How big in diameter?

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74101/10002/-1?parentProductId=745318#moreDetails

Is this one not enough, or about right? I believe they come in 4 different amp ratings.

 

You're venting hydrogen, which is lighter than air, so it will rise to the top of the box. So yes, vent from the top is correct.

 

That Moroso switch has been in use a long time and will work good.