Technical 52 Chevy lowering question

Hey guys. I'm looking to lower the rear of my 52 chev styleline. Just wanting to know how far I can de arch the rear springs before I need to start looking at a notch. I'd like to try and avoid cutting the frame. I know this has probably been covered before but my search skills are woeful. Thanks a lot for all your time and help guys

 

Well, if you are lucky enough to still find a spring shop to de-arch your springs, I can tell you this.....I had my stock springs de-arched on my 50 Chevy 3" and it hammered the frame every time I hit a bump, and I had to notch my frame. So it will be less than 3". At least it was in my case. My springs were in good shape too.

 

Why dont use lowering blocks? Mine has about 3" blocks on nova rear end. No mods to the frame. And I think it's low enough to still be able to drive on all the shitty roads around here.

Another thing you must consider is the torque tube drivetrain if you stil running stock. It may hit the floor before you are hitting the frame....

Picture of my car, it is a little lower in the front now as I have cut 1.5 round of coil as well.

 

A much simpler solution would be lowering blocks. You should be able to run 3" blocks without problems.
Check with Chevys of the 40's. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/dept/Rear+Suspension/cat/Lowering+Blocks.html

Edit: Glied beat me to the draw.

 

Great minds think alike Mo

 

I used 3" blocks in my stock 52 with no problems. Much easier than messing with leaf springs.

 

Here's my wife's '51 with 3" lowering blocks on a stock rear. I think we cut 1.5 coils off the front. The ride was a little stiff, but not bad.

 

I used Posies plus 2 inch blocks...it doesn't bottom out but it still isn't low enough

 

Use blocks, no more that 3 inches but I think 2 inches will be best because of the scrub line. If you drive the car, you don't want to go past the scrub line. Safety first!

 

Leave at least 3'"between your axle and frame otherwise it will be constantly bottoming out and driving you crazy.

 

Thanks heaps for all the info and tips guys! I've had my springs reset two inches down already so I might just put some 1 inch blocks in it and see how it goes. At least then if it's no good I can just pull them out again. Cheers guys

 

GREAT looking scallops, Gleid. Love the gold!

From the pic, it looks like even steep driveways are not a problem. Beautiful neighborhood!
Unusual color choice...looks sharp!

 

Thanks MO! Paint job was done by one Mitch Highley from Missouri. Very talented guy.

 

Stock front. 3" lowering blocks in back

 

Most people make a mistake when asking about this issue. Does you car have original springs in it, are they worn out, or hammered low? If you just replaced the springs, you could probably run 4-5 in. lower. If working with old worn out, "soft" springs, 2 or 3 in. would probably be max. Using lowering blocks is best, as you can replace them if they are too much, or too little. When buying new, you should start with a 2-3" de-arch and use lowering blocks to fine tune.
A good thing to use, if the car does hit slightly on big bumps, is a progressive bump stop. I think they were used on Cavaliers, but there are Dorman replacements. They will help if the problem is small.

 

Take a piece of rectangle tubeing 2x 3 or even 2x4 drill center bolt hole have some new U bolts custom made like $50 for 4 when its installed cut the u bolts flush with the nuts could drop it as much as 4 in like my 52 Ht 2 front coils will drop it 3 in rides like a tank but is some cool. Baron Von Vasnic

 

Don't use rectangle tubing, it can crush. If you have the original torque tube, cast iron blocks are the way to go. Otherwise, use aluminum blocks (narrow ones if your car still has the torque tube rear end).

 

I used 1/4" think tubing on my fleetline no problems with it.

 

4" blocks in the rear, 2" dropped spindles with 2" control arm drop stock springs with full travel along with pwr rack pinion steering. All works fine sofar on my 52.

 

My question if you get the rear end higher than the transmission do you have fluid migration.

 

I used the Jamco 3" drop springs, and 2" blocks with a Camaro rear axle. I used Crown Vic air shocks to firm up the ride if I'm hauling people, or road trip stuff. With 50 lbs in the shocks, it will still bottom out on bad roads. It has the original (hard as a rock) bump stops cut down to 2". It bangs pretty hard, so I'm getting some progressive urethane bump stops from jegs, hope that helps. I had my stock springs de arched, but when they get flattened out the shackles are at their full travell, so nothing moves up. I threw them away.

 

Hey Motoandy I really like the stance of your car. I saw that you were running 3 inch blocks in the back with a stock front. I am looking to do the same with my Pontiac, have you noticed any issues in your driving performance? ie potholes and the like.

Thanks

 

I've got Jamco 3" drop springs, and 2" inch blocks on mine, and it's bangin on the bump stops all the time, AND it's not sittin' as low as the rest of you guys. When I took my avatar photo, I let all the air outa the shocks, and filled the trunk full of parts catalogs. I think it looks great, but I can't drive it like that. WTF?

 

3 /16 rec tubing isnt going to crushit not carrying any weighti have been building cars for 50 years so i can assure all you novices out there its doable and SAFE!!