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Projects 39 Standard Tudor build thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by theHIGHLANDER, Jul 30, 2015.

  1. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    That's a great ride there. Looks good with nice stance.
     
  2. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,381

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Sub'd, will be watch7ng with interest!
     
  3. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, all I've been able to do in the last 2 weeks is sort and store. I've taken some dimensions, picked interior material, and of course studied as much as I can about getting and keeping a flathead Ford fun and reliable. No pics of interest and still planning/collecting parts, materials and info. Stay tuned...
     
  4. Travis T
    Joined: May 26, 2014
    Posts: 84

    Travis T

    Wow, I can't believe that paint. I'd raise the whole thing, go with the bigger front tires and keep the rake.
     
  5. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Exactly the plan Travis.

    I have a question about headers on the 39 Standard with an 85, or 59AB, flatty. Everything I look at ends at 38 then says 39 Deluxe 40 Std/Dlx. Why? If there's a difference in a 38 Deluxe, anyone know what it is? Is it the steering/light switch gig? Cowl interference? Are they all mis-tagged and a 38 Dlx and 39 Std the same? A bit maddening really. What kind of challenges can I look for fitting headers to this thing? I'm sure I could maybe port some stock manifolds but there'll surely be more than 1 carb on this thing some day soon and I think headers and good exhaust will aid in tuning and ultimately efficiency. I'm all ears, er, eyes...:eek:
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015
  6. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    38\'s new home 003.JPG Very cool Tudor.. I like the first look closer to the ground with the smaller front tires.. That's the look I'm going to try to achieve on my recent 38 standard purchase...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  7. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I saw when you got that. Nice score.
     
  8. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well with the ACD festival behind us I'm more wound up than ever to get going on it some more. I got the interior material in this week as well as new tack strip material for the headliner. I've also decided to simply run stock manifolds and fab up my own mandrel bent dual exhaust. I have some bends laying around in the right sizes so that's the plan. It would help if someone knows a source for stock style flanges at the manifold. That would save me valuable hours fabbing up something so simple, and potentially cheap, considering. The pipe will run over the top of the frame and gently roll down behind the steering box, then cuddle up to the rails like they belong as they run out to the back. Looks like a lot of room in there. The head pipes will be 1 3/4" then open to 2" later on down the line. Good idea? Bad idea? She's a stock flatty so I see no need for headers or big tubes. Even if it gets hopped up a bit it won't be much as told earlier. Getting on the road is the #1 goal here. I've also looked at a few different front anti-roll bars. I want something a bit bigger than stock and Drake has one that looks interesting. 7/8 diameter and fairly basic bolt in with exception to boring through the pan below the radiator. I'll take any suggestions, but don't really want just the stocker. Freeway handling is the goal and with little twits texting and such I want the ability to drive defensively. I could also use a standard glovebox door. Mine has a deluxe that held a clock and I want a simple flat surface for the woodgrain vs the clock hole. I'd hate to weld it shut, maybe somebody can use it as is since there's no problems with it. The adventure continues...
     
  9. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,208

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Watching intently, Jocko!
    Just disappointed we won't be seeing some of your wonderful body and paint work, but I see your point in preserving this beauty!
     
  10. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    At Hershey this week scrounging and selling. Looking for a standard glovebox door, some grille trim, old exhaust for flanges...
     
  11. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,032

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Great looking car already.. and It's just getting better. I'll be following along!
     
  12. jim galli
    Joined: Sep 28, 2009
    Posts: 384

    jim galli
    Member

    I'm in. Loving my '38 coupe. Lots in common. I use it every weekend. Haven't kept up with the build thread very good though.
     
  13. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well about time for an update, huh? Not much physically done but solving some cases. I had an ill fitting hood side issue. The grille seemed to dip down in front, the screw positions affording no help. Over the weekend I fixed that. I kept loosening everything I could in order to jimmy it all back into shape. It worked. NOW IF I COULD ONLY FIND THE 2 TRIM PIECES THAT FIT THE HOOD SIDES! ANYBODY HAVE A COUPLE? Sorry to scream but I'm coming up empty in my searches, although I was able to shag all 4 of the small trim for the rear louvers.
    001.jpg
    002.jpg

    Everything loosened up or unbolted with little effort and minimal use of penetrant. I also got to see that the edges of things were completely devoid of tape lines or over spray. Further testament to the car's original paint condition if nothing else. here's headlight shell removed and notice the edge before the opening...
    004.jpg
    the other side...
    003.jpg
    I got all the material I need to take off on the interior and things at the shop are loosening up enough to attack it with a purpose. Don't get me wrong, I love the shop being busy. Well, that is when it doesn't steal my time (!). I'll post again when we start to lay out the seat covers and such.
     
  14. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Getting after the inside this week. Here's the material choice and a look at the springs. Still OEM Ford black on the springs and frame work. This will be nice to do vs what we usually have to work with. The design will be a traditional pleated seat and 1/2 smooth, 1/2 pleats on the door panels. There's some other stuff that's going on but I'm keeping that under wraps until much later. I chose the material based on a couple things. Instead of proper wool at as much as $90/yd this vinyl will be both traditional custom in looks and durability should i take one of the pups with me now and then. I'd be pretty ass chapped if their toenails poked holes in the wool. 008.jpg 005.jpg

    Padding will be a combination of cotton and foam for comfort and stability. We'll also use new burlap to maintain the shape and height of the cushion springs. taking off on the garnish moldings as well, a quick check for fit, shagged some "whisker" material for the glass too. I'll make those before I start the grain process and cover how it was done and the cost involved in the new whiskers. Stay tuned...
     
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Just found this, MAN is that car cherry! Nice score, subscribed.
     
  16. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Can't wait to see the finished seats...
     
  17. "There can be only one...."
    Sorry, just wanted to say that. :D
    Sean Connery would approve. ;)
    Cool car Jocko, missed this the first time round, I better put this on my watch list.
     
  18. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the support y'all. The pleats will be 4 on the backrests and 8 in the lower cushion. The back will be the same but 8 and 8, probably a little bigger since there's a width difference. Have an idea for a more elegant arm rest treatment in the rear. A little plywood, some foam, seasoned with a little imagination, wanna get that "grandma's forbidden sofa" look back there. Stay tuned...
     
    captain scarlet likes this.
  19. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well the interior is moving along nicely. The 4 main panels are fabbed and Robin is sewing up the skins. IMG_20151128_165146676_HDR.jpg
    Like I said earlier, smooth on the top, pleats below. We'll also add a welt between the two. The other sorta big job was the felts for the windows. I tried one alone and it took the better part of 3 hrs as it's a bit much to handle. Our HAMB brother safari-wagon helped out with the other 3 and the results are exiting. The 4 pcs for the doors are done and came out perfect. I made a plywood form traced off the molding, we added side supports to hold each side as it went along, some tapping and "corking" as we went and in short order we had it knocked.
    2015112895125327.jpg
    IMG_20151128_131529485.jpg
    IMG_20151128_132005219_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20151128_131505849.jpg
    As the stock is bent around the form the stainless trim part will slide out as it can't stretch like the rest of it does. I might just order the set for the rears, not sure yet. For the cost of getting more stock and shipping an 8' tube, it might be a wash for pre-bent stuff. Of course I'll cover that choice here whatever it is. I'm really feeling good about this one but there's a lot more to do. Stay tuned...
     
  20. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

  21. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, tough call. Do I or don't I take the front sheet metal off...

    I decided yes. The ease of running exhaust, the ability to at least give her some new fender welt, the ease of fixing the few spots on the front fenders to let them play as nice as the rest of the car looks. I'd guess that the radiator would flop out just as easy which then allows wiring the engine, setting the distributor, etc and so on and, yeah it all has to get done. The interior is going along really well, advantage being we do that in house. All this in between running a shop that's growing nearly faster than I can manage so anything that speeds the process is a welcome idea. I'll flop some pics up later today. Have a few ideas to make things even easier yet.
     
  22. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So the front fenders are off. Good move for all the work up there so no regrets.
    IMG_20160112_180759831.jpg
    F-6 garage rat, safari-wagon and captain scarlet all came by during the holiday week and helped raise the suspension and get things apart, and also helped big getting the old window felts off. In the meantime our trim hero Robin continued with the interior. We got the back rests covered for the front seat, she has the pleated panels all done for all 5 cushions (2 folding backs and the 3 full cushions). We'll have to reshape the spring/padding a bit to get where we want but it's coming along nice.
    IMG_20160112_180734726_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160112_180656883.jpg
    Moving ahead on the exhaust too. Got a nice looking head pipe (I think it is) working its way along the driver's side frame rail. We're using mandrel bent 1 3/4 to fab it up. I heated the frame rail where it was tighter than I wanted and had Luke smack a nice round clearance bend in it.
    IMG_20160115_163918258.jpg
    Now we have enough space without banging a dent in the pipe. The next couple shots show how we're routing it.
    IMG_20160115_171356083_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160115_173029370.jpg
    IMG_20160115_180933504.jpg
    IMG_20160115_180958975.jpg
    From here we'll cozy it up toward the outside a bit then run on back. The other side will get a similar approach even though it's not needed. I think both pipes doing what the driver's side has to will look better, as in both running above the side rails. Stay tuned for the next episode, same flathead time, same flathead channel...
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
  23. What's the reason for running the tube like that?
     
  24. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Nice work and it looks really good...Did you ever think of running the exhaust in the frame rails. I am considering that in my AV8.
     
  25. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Very little clearance around the steering box. The manifold outlet is in the front as you can see, were we to try and run it below the path to the back wouldn't be as straight as we're doing it now. While perhaps the least technical reason, I think it looks kool too. Running it inside the rail, well there's some headlight switch wires that don't want to share the space with a hot pipe. I won't just skip the OEM light switch in favor of a generic push-pull in the dash panel.
     
  26. OK, thanks.
     
  27. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 30,778

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    make sure you check clearance for the clutch pedal when running pipes there. a friend of mine did the whole system on an early ford, then got in and pushed the clutch pedal... it moved about an inch and hit directly onto the pipe...
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  28. 39delux
    Joined: Nov 1, 2002
    Posts: 332

    39delux
    Member

    What a great score. It makes me miss my old '39 Deluxe first car.
    Tom
     
  29. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,245

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I appreciate the reminder. The next session will show that we have the pedal held down and the routing used to avoid interference.

    It will be 1 3/4" until just past all of that, from there it's going to open up to 2" up to the mufflers, and after that I have some nice 2 1/2" stainless for tail pipes. They were "salvage" from an 80s 'G' body perf system (Regal, Cutlass, Monte Carlo). I expect no additional performance from stepping the system like that, I just have the stuff in new condition so might as well use it. Haven't decided on mufflers yet (!) because I'm not sure how loud (quiet) I want it to be. Even insulated for sound that's still some sizable cabin space and I don't want excessive drone inside on long rides. The hangers will be rubber to help fight that too, just don't know what I want yet.
     
    Moriarity likes this.

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