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Hot Rods 8BA ValVE Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatford39, Jan 8, 2016.

  1. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Hi guys,

    Rebuilding an 8BA and need to replace the entire valve train. This was a stuck engine and needs new guides, valves, springs etc.

    It came back from my machine shop clear of cracks in the valve seats. Most of the new valve train kits I see all have stainless valves.

    My question is can I lap these stainless valves into the existing valve seats. I am talking old school here and want to do this withe the suction cup and compound method.

    Thank you for any help.
     
  2. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,477

    King ford
    Member
    from 08302

    I wouldn't recommend it, it would probably work kinda ok but would not be ideal....if he bores don't need machine shop attention I would still have a shop hot tank it to clean out the water passages and touch up he valve saeats
     
  3. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

  4. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    The shop did hot tank it and cleaned it out. Then they magnafluxed and pressure tested. I have a good block.

    My question was can I hand lap the new stainless steel valves into the existing seats.

    This is a 53 Merc motor and I believe the Ford valve seats were hardened from the factory.
     

  5. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,956

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hopefully, one of the real knowledgeable guys will chime in here, because it gets a little complicated. If the Mercs are like Fords, by '53, the the insert valve seats had been eliminated and they had gone to rotating valves and (I believe) shorter valves. If the stainless valves you are considering are specifically for the later engines, you may be all right as to length, but if you are thinking Chevrolet valves which are longer than the Ford valves, there may be a problem. Be careful about mixing and matching valve parts on these engines.
     
  6. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Thank you for the response. I understand the difference between Chevy valves and Ford valves. These are Ford stainless valves.
     
  7. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,874

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Lapping valves is like putting 20,000 miles on it before you ever start it ...
     
  8. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,956

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't doubt that, but I was referring more to the early vs. late 8BA stuff. If you are going a new valve train, you should have no problem. If you try to use some early parts with some of the later rotator parts, there may be a mismatch. Just a heads up.
     
  9. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,056

    19Fordy
    Member

    I am not an expert, but unless you are building a very high performance engine, stick with original style valves. That way you know it will all fit together and work properly. Post your question on www.fordbarn.com for expert opinions.
     
  10. Lapping in valves is not a new deal, many engine rebuilds back in the day would sit and hand lap valves to seats. Today there are hand held cutters to clean up the valve seats and then lap in a new valve. small engine shops have done this for years. Is it the best way? ..no, but will it work, yes.. Todays technology and tooling is the best ever and the best way to do the job, just not the only way.. Just one suggestion ...use Marvel Mistry Oil or some other valve lube product during the break in period as new tight valve guides tend to stick the valve just of off the seats where the spring tension is at its lowest pressure.( flatheads don't have a lot of valve spring tension ( 50 to 60 lbs. on the seat ). Sticking is usually caused by carbon build up on the valve stem right at the guide, especially on the exhaust valves. M.M.O. or other valve lube will help keep those stems clean ... I use 2 oz.'s M.M.O. with every fill up even after the 600 mile break in period. I also recommend oils that have some amount of ZDP/ZINK additive package or add it yourself at every oil change.. Most modern oils do not have this additive added anymore ...
     
  11. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,709

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    Proper lapping is only done to verify a "good" seal between the valve & seat & shouldn't take more than a few minutes per valve ; if the 'fine-line' doesn't show-up right away, either the valve or seat was miss-cut, & needs to be corrected! If it takes 20,000 miles off your rebuild, it was done WRONG!!!
     
  12. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Thank you for the tip...I will certainly do this.
     
  13. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    That's pretty much what I thought...so I probably need to drop off the new valves to my machine shop and have them match them to the seats. Then I can do some minor lapping as I assemble.
     
  14. Check out NEWAY valve seat cutters on google they don't cost much and you can cut your seats by hand .. All that is needed is a pilot and the cutter. I see the pilots on eBay all the time for ford flatheads
     
  15. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,377

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    RosevilleCarl will have valuable input for you. If he doesn't see the thread, start a conversation with him on your question. He is very knowledgeable on the flatty and helpful.
     

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