Do you have to pinch a 32 rail to put a 31 body on, I know a 29 needs it, anyone got pics of a 31 on 32 rails? I have looked on the net and come up with squat... Thanks
My dads pal just put a 30 on 32 rails and had to pinch them. But, then again he's running fenders. I would say yes.
here's two, both different cars, not shure if tey were pinched or the whole frame was narrowed. i know 32's would not fit on these frames
You don't have to pinch the rails to put the 31 body on 32 rails but go to www.classsicroad.com and see what Rolf did. He's a HAMBer. Click on his Model A build and then click on his Pinch or not to Pinch section. It explains the pinch pretty well. Mine is pinched 1/2 inch on each side and I plan on dropping my body over the rails as he did. It's a pretty good way to get rid of the gap between bottom of body and rails.
I keep getting error, cant find web site, is it still up and running? If its not around does anyone have the pics?
the cowl at the fire wall will be 3/4 per side narrower on a 30-31, the 32 frame tapers out and up from under the cowl, i pie cut the cowl sides to get it to sit down some builders flaten the frame [ i don't think it looks as good ] to run fenders you'll have too pinch the rails.
I channeled mine, just cut out the floor dropped over the rails and welded a new floor back in, but that was back in 52 when 32 rails were not looked in the same way they are today.
Wow, thanks for that link! I am in the middle of building a '30 pickup, and that was tons of useful info. Whoever the guy building that car is, he's a badass for sure. Thanks again.
Dumb question #1000, I know the reason for pinching the frame and saw Rolf website but how exactly is it done? Do you pinch it after all the x-members are welded in? Do you just heat it and squeeze it together at the cowl. On Rolfs car it looks like it was just heated at the cowl. I have yet to weld in my x-members (model a front and rear) so can I just lay out the frame so it's narrow enough at the cowl to start with? Sorry to hijack your thread but this info may benefit others. Thanks....Mike
Same dumb question. How do you actually pinch the frame? Do you pie cut top and bottom? Where at? How do you keep everything lined up? How do keep from screwing up the frame?
I agree with the guy who does a slight pinch and sections the cowl. We have done several that way and they look bitching.
Imo - and this in no way disparages Rolf's project. He's done some very nice work and his coupe looks great. Anyhoo . . . you don't have to pinch the frame or cut the body at the front mount. The frame in the pics was built to 32 specs including the Model A front re-pro crossmember is in the stock 32 location. The first pic shows where the body ends up when slid forward so that the center of the rear wheel well is centered on the rear axle. Note that the hood lacing channel is inside the frame's outer edge, but the body proper overhangs the frame. (The front body mount in this pic is not finished, it needs a filler piece and welding on the front side.) This second pic shows the same area from a different angle. The third pic shows a lack of gap. There is a gap, about 3/16", but you can't see it unless you get down on your hands and kness. Plus, once the exhaust system et al is in, along with the frame welting, the gap will completely disappear. A couple of things allow the gap to be minimal. Note the notch cut out of the wheel well kick-in. That allows the rear of the body to drop down the final 3/4" which makes for a mini-channel of sorts with the body dropping over the frame rail. Along with the kick-in notch is the custom built body mounts which allow the body to come down far as possible. The fourth pic shows how the hood sides fit. The rear is out over the frame rails as they should be. The front tapers in over the frame rails so as to meet the Deuce grille shell. (The grille shell height in this pic is incorrect, it's since been lowered 1" - it was lowered 1" to start with, you'll need a 2" lower than stock grill shell so things look right.) Disregard the old dude in the pic, he's my granddaughters grandfather. Fifth shows the car's stance, grille shell in the right place etc. The upper windshield bar sits about 1" high. Once the lower curved bar is in place, the windshield will look like it's supposed to. It gets a little more angle back as well. (I wouldn't want to insult AV8 by having a too vertical windshield - and he's right, the windshield needs to go back some more.) Lastly, to make the frame fit the A body in the wheelwell area, you have to cut the frame and pull it out 3/4". This measurement may be slightly different on your car, but the key thing is to make the frame parallel to the inside of the wheel well. A little additonal info: 32 wheelbase = 106". My car's wheelbase = 105" Hood lengths measure along the top: 32 = 32" My car = 32 3/8" Note that there is room for the big Buick - 462" when done - to run double V-belts and a mechanical fan. Rolf has some good info posted to the Internet. I've done mine a little differently. Thing to keep in mind here, two guys, two cars, two different ways to do things and end up with similar results....
I'm doing the same thing, except I want to channel the '31 body over the '32 rails. This may be a stupid question, but this is my first time doing this. Do I need to stretch the body over or narrow the frame rails? KK
I have done mine almost to a (t) like Rolf did his and it has come out just about perfect as his did. I left my wheelbase the same as a stock 32. Dont know where C9 lost the wheelbase other than moving the crossmembers. I am running stock model a crossmembers front and back. I have seen it done both ways and I feel the pinched makes the body look more rite on the frame. Just my opinion and this is also my first A on a 32 frame to do. But I do want to say thanks for guys like ROLF and C9 that supply us with great pics and help when doing this kinda stuff. It is guys like yall that have done this before that make it easier for us guys doing it out first times. Thanks
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