Projects Model a banger sport coupe to 8BA

She's in the weeds now! Feels good to see it back on its wheels. Plumb the brakes next and throw the body on it.

 

Billy, got anything you want to trade for it? I need two B pillars, master cylinder mount, and miscellaneous other stuff still to get this thing going.

 

If you plan to run fenders be sure to do a quick check to see if they fit (especially when turning). Don't ask why I suggested you do this.

Charlie Stephens

 

I chopped my sport coupe 4 inches and right away chopped it another inch. Why do it once when you can do it twice? Not too many of us running around in these.

 

so you gonna be renaming this thread or what??? Looking forward to watching this coupe come together.

 

looking forward to some updates!!! Where are those pics you promised??

 

Just got done cleaning the garage and filling 3 large trash cans with junk. I can see the car and actually walk around it now! Organized all my parts, tools, toolboxes, and basically rearranged everything to optimize the little space I have. After I get back from dinner with the wifey I'll be back out there wrenchin.

 

This thread is not dead...

Got it registered last night thanks to Boulevard Registration. Got the plates, vin verification, registration and didn't even have to leave my house!

 

Stripping the wheels.

 

Rattle canned.

 

I need interior window frames for 28-29 tudor sedan. Not the bottom, Just around window, Anybody help me?

 

those look pretty good. get some rubber on them and make that beast a roller

 

F1 steering box and a VW bus mount mocked up thanks to @NealinCA

 

My wife got me a badass birthday present a couple weeks ago.

The neighbors hate when I use the grinder at night. Decided to weld up the old steering box holes and see what she can do. Not the prettiest but I had to fire this baby up and let her stretch her wings.

 

Got the tires mounted today.

Got creative with the master cylinder mount. I cut the end off a stock mechanical brake cross shaft.


And it will be placed like so...

Had to heat and bend the arms so the pins were parallel. Drilled a half inch hole to run a bolt through it.

Mocked up with a simple support so it doesn't wobble.

And voila!

I had to move the master cylinder over so it wouldn't hit the trailing rod.

Here's a couple of shots from underneath. I cut up the stock brake rods since they already have adjusters and I'm a broke. May be tech-week worthy...

 

Very cool idea.

 

That Master cylinder mount is awesome!! Great use of old parts!!!

 

Got the brakes all plumbed, adjusted and bled. Wheels on it and sitting pretty.

It's my first try fully plumbing a car so it's not the prettiest, but I didn't have a single leak. The Eastwood brake flaring tool is probably my favorite now, it works perfect every time.

 

what vehicle is the the Master cylinder originally ? Do you have a part number you can share?

 

Looking at the front brake lines in post # 138 I am concerned that they might be long enough when your suspension is extended to the maximum. Difficult to tell for sure from a picture.

Charlie Stephens

 

It's for a Mustang with drum/drum brakes. Cardone part #13-1485

I already jacked up the frame to check. They work fine. The brake lines bend upwards due to the dropped axle so at full droop they have plenty of slack, even turning the wheels lock to lock.

 

Be sure to replace the original fan with an aluminum one. Get one that is current production since the earlier ones tended to have problems.

Charlie Stephens

 

One man party happened today.





I want to lower the rear another 2-4". I'll start by taking out 3 leaves because the rear is very stiff and doesn't travel through the stroke even when I jump on it. If that doesn't work I'll z the frame. Then I'll give it a haircut of 4-5".

 

Looking good. The master cylinder mounting/operation idea is awesome as well.

 

Those orange pinstripes that were on your wheel before stripping would look nice on that new black paint-maybe somebody can stripe them for you?

 

I agree. If I were to go that route and spend the money on having them striped, I would probably powder coat the wheels. I don't think the rattle can spray paint will hold up very well. And thank you @Binger and @1931fordtruck !!!

 

The rear spring was so stiff that even when I would jump on the rear crossmember it would only compress about 1/2". It was just too tall as well. I cut a few of the springs a put them under the pack. Hard to tell from the pics but it dropped about 1 1/2" and now compresses enough to feel like a car.



More pics of further progress tomorrow.

 

Had another good day sweating it out in the garage. Got the hinges installed, doors adjusted and latching decent. I need two new springs for the latches, one broke and the other looks like it will break tomorrow.

Then I installed the rumble area floor. A word of advice: don't buy the rumble hinge kit from Mac's. It's a piece of shit.

Got the F1 box in with the VW bus box mount. Had to shorten the drag link an inch.

Got the 31 A steering column bracket all dialed, and the '50 Ford steering wheel on.

I will be getting the seat riser, visor and a few other parts tomorrow so there will be plenty to do this week. Stay tuned.

 

I don't like using Mac's. Bert's in Denver has great parts and service. I have been extremely happy with the quality of parts I have got from them. You might give them a look.

modelastore.com

 

Got my hands on a sheet of 3/4" birch 5-ply. Cut the floor boards and installed the seat riser.