Like I told someone else, I'm not dead set on having a V8, but for other reasons would really like to have an automatic transmission in it.
Like I told someone else, I will pop a hubcap and see what I have. I see there are some kits available for the 12 volt conversion that contains everything except the battery. When I converted my 50 Ford Shoebox over to 12 volts, I left the starter at 6 volts and never had a problem with it. The old car definitely spun up quick!
Whew! I'm impressed at all the responses I've received so far. Some good info in a short time. A lot to ponder. Thank you all for feeling welcomed here. RC
Thanks for the welcome and the compliment. No matter what I do as far as an engine goes, I would like to have dual exhaust. It just sounds better to me.
Looks like you can put a 700r4 behind your 216, with an adapter. Add in a new crossmember. You'll need to find or fab linkage for your shifter (column shift) or switch to a floor shifter. If you already have a floor shift, that's a bit easier. Shorten a driveshaft, switch the rearend over, and some sheet metal work for the floor. Might need to replace / rerouted the exhaust. The 700R4 TCC lockup solenoid is going to need 12V, so you're looking at wiring, lights, and maybe new gauges, or a voltage drop to your 6V gauges. A TH350 would eliminate the need for 12V, but then you don't get OD. Whether that matters depends on what driving you intend to do. Mostly in town, OD doesn't matter. Mostly highway road trips, OD saves on gas money. If the 216 is front mounted, you should check too see if that'll be ok with a modern transmission designed for a mid mounted engine. Front mount is going to put stress on the engine to transmission mounting bolts.
If you need an automatic, you're probably best off to go ahead with the V8 swap and open driveshaft conversion/rear axle swap. An early Powerglide can be put onto a 216/235 but they're not very good for highway driving and it would be a lot of work for little gain. An early 327 with a '57 Chevy rearend and whatever auto trans in the car would keep it period hot rod and give you what you're looking for, nothing wrong with that. It'll be a fair bit of work though, and I guess I have a tendency not to want to take apart cars that are already drivers.
Nice looking 41, I would 2nd or 3rd the motion to go V/8 if intending on switching to automatic as well.
Good info David. I've been looking at what needs to be done for conversion to 12 volts, and it is remarkably easy. The only gauge that needs 6 volts is the gas gauge. The ammeter doesn't care what the volts are, and the oil pressure and water temperature are mechanical. The shifter will be the biggest concern. I'm hoping to find some sort of electrical shifter setup.
There are adapters, ($$$) but an automatic behind a 216 is a bad idea. A 235 could pull one, but a th 350 would be much better. PG = power glide, the last choice for an automatic IMO. If you do go with an auto, you might as well go the whole hog and do a v8 and open driveshaft and rear end. A 235 along with an early 50s PG rear end would be easiest, simplest drivetrain upgrade. A modern automatic trans really changes things engine and rear end - wise. Whatever you do, don't forget the other critical upgrade, BRAKES. And air conditioning, of course.
For as little freeway driving that I will be doing, a PowerGlide would probably do, especially if it is an easy install on a 235. I agree, I want to get some use out of the present setup while it is still viable.
Probably a good idea on the brakes. They presently stop the car ok, but seem a bit squirrelly in a panic stop. Not too bad, but not optimal.
Yep, learned that a long time ago and it gas served me well, for the most part. Thanks for the compliment, and I am having fun with it. Here's me doing my Santa impression! This was taken the first day I owned it. By the end of the second day, it had the windows tinted for a better look, in my opinion.
What I have found is I need the good brakes because of the other drivers, not me. Plus discs stop nice and straight. Have fun, whatever you do.
When I put the 283 in my '40 Coupe we used all '57 Chebby stuff. It was or is a pretty straight forward swap although I don't recall all the specifics as we did it about 45 or so years ago. As for where you post when in doubt post on the Hokey Assed Message Board, at least until you get a good handle on it. that will keep the pissy folks from getting their panties in a bunch and you may even make a friend that you otherwise would have pissed off.
Thanks! Good eye, I've been hauling those things around the country for over 30 years. I was sorta hoping they would find there way into the 41. We'll see!
My experience with a 6, I ran a 250 cu. in. for a couple of years with at 700R4 behind it and a 3:23 rear. The 250 is a 150 hp engine, with an HEI dist. is did pretty good but I grew tired of it pretty quick on the freeways and especially hills. A V8 is a different breed, plenty of power, it doesn't care if your going up a hill. Now I drive my car a lot, I wouldn't trade the V8 for ten 6's but that's my opinion, others like six's, not me. Like other guys stated, Chassis Engineering makes modifying a chevy easy. A lot of drilling holes but no welding, makes a much better deal IMO. My car is a great cruiser or parade car, works just great, you have some great times ahead of you.
Chevy was six lug until '48 (except '36). Best way to put 5 lugs on the front is to use '49 to '51 hubs and drums. '55 to '57 rear would be easy but they seem to be spendy lately. If I was "centering" the rear end I'd have a new main leaf made with the center bolt hole relocated. Some friends re-drilled the spring pad on the rear end housing "back in the day", but I don't like that idea. I like the idea of drilling the drop block even less. I owned three or four '41s back in the late fifties and not one was half as nice as yours. Norm
I have the cast iron power glide and adapter that goes to a 235. It is also set up for a closed drive shaft. It would need to be rebuilt. You could have the cool 235 and automatic without having to change the rear end. Your other option is to get an adapter from Bensteds and use a turbo 350 or a 700R4 up behind it.
Thanks for your input. One nice thing about a six is it looks like it belongs there. One nice thing about an eight is you know it can get you anywhere, at any speed!
An early hot rod switch was early Olds or Caddy V8. with Lasalle tranny and open drive rear-especially 1955 Chevy truck 6 stud rear. Were tough enough to handle the torque of the Caddy or Olds. 1956 324 Olds probably the best but heavy. Might need to upgrade your front coil springs. Can use the later side shift LaSalle and utilize your columd shitet or get a Turbo 400 from Ross Racing for the Olds. Definitely disc brakes in front. 12 volt the way to go. Can get your original guages rebuilt and upgraded or get replacements. Call Sandie in Chester,Arkansas for gauge work. Great people! Lots of great choices. Cool car. Tim
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