I still favor "Hemi Under Glass" of course it was not a "Gasser" just one bad to the bone Barracuda. Built right a Barracuda could be one fast stripper. A 413 max wedge would be as sweet as it gets under that hood.
I have a corvair box on my willys and have put them on several other cars with no problem. you will have to reverse it or buy it already reversed. What causes problem with the box is builders not adding a steering stabilizer. With out the stabilizer you could get death wobble and that will kill any box over time.
MOPAR used that same basic box through the muscle car era. They resemble the moon box that was used back then too. you don't have to reverse them to run them with a drag link and they make an excellent hot rod box. They make two different length pitman arms for them the long one works well on an old hot rod.
Like the porknbeaner said, just about all Mopars had the same manual box. All aluminum and will take all you can give it. No need to reverse it, just turn it on its side. Cross steer wouldn't work on mine either. I'll run a stabilizer on mine too. It's a common stabilizer available at just about all parts stores. Fits a VW. P/N is SSD 58 from Autozone. My box is the one that came on the car. Modified/made my own pitman arm. You at least need to use the end that has the splines. Rod ends on the drag link. I believe the steering arm is for a 48 Ford, from Speedway.
SSd 58 from auto zone or any place that sales suspension products. I cut the bent end off and plug welded a 3/8 female rod end in place.
Morning Guys, love this site because of all the info available & that everyone is willing to share it, sometimes complete with part #s! Sure beats going to the parts store(best to have # with you)! All I need now is a site that deals with knee replacement rehab, this shit is HARD. Tuned in, Carp
Been working on Cuda for 2 months now. I'll post a then and now pic tomorrow. Started on my birthday, Oct 10. Today is our boys birthday, Dec 12. He's following the build and since we won't see him til after Christmas--Happy Birthday Robbie!
Great build, love the concept of southern gassers and your car. Hope the tranny& clutches hold up. Leave the faded color and dents for the first year - an oldy gasser for sure.
Nope paint her up nice and shinny like race car should be , with some turned leaf lettering for the icing on the cake You would never take a new first class gasser to the strip in primer back in my day ' no way ' as it was not done till it had some color on it, then it was time to race it and be very proud of you have built Leave the non- finished paint stuff to the rat rod bunch DND
I haven't put as much thought as I should into a paint job yet. That makes or breaks the project. They also are very expensive. The color, scheme and name have to complement the body style. Any suggestions? Anybody?
You could do what I did on my 37' as I did all the prep work block sanding the primer, then pay a guy or shop to lay on the color & clear coat and then you do the color sanding and rubbing it out You can save a lot that way by doing most of the work yourself, and let a pro spray it then use some of that saved money for a nice quality lettering job All the steps for todays paints are easy to get then do your home work, and make a game plan of what to do so you don't have any hiccups along the way Get a scratch pad and start making up some different designs to see what lights your fire BTW with that ridge that goes front to back along the top of the fenders & door that is a great spot to meet two colors , and go nice with the body shape & design DND
Yeah....I have a friend who does excellent work. He always says "You paint it, bring it to me and I'll fix it." He has "fixed" all my "good" cars, but it extremely busy.
My 37' was just like you see it the first time out, so I could put all my attention to racing it since B/Gas was a tough class to win with a lot of heavy hitters at each strip Plus that way of having the car all done, I could take it to the big shows each year out here in L.A.
What is your favorite color? Lighter colors, at least on the roof will keep you from roasting inside, sitting in the staging lanes etc. Red, or any color using red tints tend to be physically heavier because of the iron content in red toner to create the red color. My experience for this, goes back to the mid 80's, so they may not even use iron in red tones anymore. I'll throw a list of names at you, after I've had my thinking cap on awhile, first one that came to me was "Cuda Skoota" . If you put the engine size on the fender, could go with "383 Wedgamacallit" Deciding on the color, could influence the name too, looking at the color now, reminds me of a favorite drink, "Orange Bang" or "Orange Whip". Are you partners with anyone on the car, lots of cool old gassers just had the last name of the guys involved "Stone Woods & Cook".
White top, blue above the belt line, red sides. Use base coats, letter it, then clear everything. Names: Tennessee Terror Classical Gas Terminator Cave Man What ever you do it will look good I'm sure.
This may show ignorance on my part but why have you used two drive shaft hops? is it a rule thing or am I missing something here?
Maybe it's me not keeping up with the times, but back in the day, 2 loops were required. One front and one in the back half of the driveshaft. Maybe someone here knows the answer. I'd like to know for sure. It's been a long time since I passed a door car through any kind of tech.
These cars launch between 8-10000 rpm's, imagine breaking the drive shaft up behind the four speed. Right beside your seat!! I don't think by rule you need two, but it's a heck of a good idea!
I had a 61 Chevy car in high school and me and a buddy blew the front drive shaft joint doing a burn out of coarse. It came forward and busted the shifter off the 4 speed and sucked my hand that was on the shift knob down through the shift boot. I was not hurt but very surprised to say the least! Gary