Been collecting parts for about 2 years and working on it when I get time. I've traded and wheeled and dealed for most of the parts. I only have about $400-$500 of my own money in it so far. 52 Gmc cab and doors. 49-51 (judging by emblems) chevy doghouse, 55 first series bed, 55 first series frame, 53 chevy car hubs and drums on 52 truck spindles and brakes, 3" drop axle, early 70s 250, 84 th350, early 90s camaro drum brake rear. This is my first vintage vehicle build. I'm used to sticking airbags under s10s. I'm trying to keep this a mild somewhat traditional hotrod/parts runner truck. I've learned a lot on the hamb, and any other help I can get from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking
Great lookin build, use what you got and build it. There's a few other low buck truck builds on here, I always enjoy reading them. Keep the updates coming.
Help? It looks like you could be helping many of us. Looks good so far. I think we all love these trucks. Of course hit us up with questions.
...sounds like you've done your homework, that's a great plan,...here's a couple I ran years back with the same engine/trans combo, a great all-round set-up.
A few detail pics of motor mounts and new front shocks as well as my retrofitted 67-70 mustang master cylinder. Decided to do a full mock up to see how it will set and show off the wheels. I can have the whole thing back apart in about 20 min with a cherry picker.
My biggest car regret, was letting one of these trucks go, when I was in my twenty. I miss that truck, good luck with yours.
Thanks for all the comments guys! I'm no body man or a painter so it's probably not happening. Gonna drive the wheels off and use it as a truck. I'm hoping it gets comparable gas mileage to my 2004 chevy Z71
That's a great montage of parts...they mold together just fine! (best of everything) I'm piecing an F-1 Ford together, bed and rear fenders were hardest to find. (got 'em in a trade for a '71 BMW after salvaging the head, transmission, and other parts for my Track T) Like my wife always says: "A guy needs a nice truck" Mileage might vary, but you can kiss the feeling of Z71 acceleration goodbye...
New water pump today because when the body is off and they're only $17, why not? Had clearance issues where it was hitting the timing cover (I'm guessing a defect in casting) but grandpa's old die grinder made quick work of that. Also pulled the rearend and welded my axle saddles solid. No pics though. Now to clean it up, redo the brakes, paint it, fill it with gear oil, and put it back. More pics later
Looks good so far. I would defiantly do something else besides a welded rod on your master cylinder. May last forever, may snap on the first heavy hit to the pedal. If you have to extend it or modify it, buy or make a threaded coupler. And make sure your pedal has an up stop, so the rod can't get pulled out of the master.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-33013914-Universal-Push-Rod-Kit,136383.html There are cheaper kits, this is a good quality one.
Update: chassis finally on four wheels to stay. Every bolt, bushing, shackle, and kingpin has been replaced. Rebuilt brakes front and rear. All new shocks. Dual master cylinder from 67-70 mustang. Next I need to mount a gas tank and run fuel and brake lines
Really like your truck build. If you have trouble getting a good pedal ( bleeding the brakes ) check the diameter of your master piston v/s wheel cylinders piston diameters. Went through this with my 48 Ford, when I put in a Mustang Two power brake master cylinder bolt on kit. Found out that the master cylinder only had a 15/16 piston, trying to fill stock 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 wheel cylinder pistons. The newer rear should be ok but dont know how big front 48 Chevy truck cylinders are? Took me awhile to figure this out, but solved it by using a master cylinder from a F-350 Ford truck. Had to drill the mounting holes bigger to fit the Mustang Two Booster. Hope this helps Norb
Thanks Tickety Boo. The master cylinder I bought says it's for front and rear drums. The front wheel cylinders are bendix so they aren't very big. I'm still up in the air on whether or not I need inline residual valves. I've heard so many answers I'm not sure what I need.
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