quarter of an inch spacer needed... 28-31 ( Model A )axles had 21/4 perch bosses as did 37-48 car (and 1/2 ton pickup until 41). 32 to 36 had 2" perch bosses. All used the same diameter perch pin ( bolt) but there were differences in length of the pin and in the top area for brake , spring and shock mounting etc. Original wishbones were matched to the axle in the perch area ( no spacer), but the distance between the perch bolts was different in different years. 37-48s were wide apart ( perches and king pins closer together) which makes it difficult to drop the axle and also means with split bones the tires will rub on the radius rod before you reach full lock. Spindles vary in length and backing plate mountings, depending on which brakes you want to use, the king pins were all the same diameter but also varied in length and style , and position of the notch for the locking (cotter) pin, according to application. Some had bearings on top under the head of the kingpin others had the bearing between the axle and the stub axle... when mix and matching parts you need to be aware of lining up the notch in the kingpin (for the locking pin.) Your Pilot axle is pretty much the same as a 36 axle. If the wishbone will not go onto a Model A axle , check to make sure someone has not been bashing it with a BFH. Should be 2 1/4 between the flanges.
Yes 97, eventually worked out I needed a 1/4 spacer of some type, tried to find a solid 1/4 spacer and settled for 4 hardened washes. Was going to stack them but changed my mind to putting them on each side of the axle. They are tight on the spring perch so should not move about. BUT having trouble getting the perches in the axle, need to clean out the perch holes. The axle has spent some time out side loose on the ground so was quite pitted on on side around the sway bar mount, that's why I spent a few hours grinding out the sway bar mount, came out ok Will see if I can find a baby drill mount flapper wheel and clean out the perch holes. As you can see in the picture the F1 spindles and its kingpin fitted perfectly Everything from the axle, brakes and steering all came from 1949. Axle made in England, F1 spindles made in the USA, shipped to South Africa as RHD, then imported into Australia. Very well traveled parts here.
Finished the steering box, made up from 3 different 7 tooth boxes. Did not want to use the correct top steering column bearing as the steering column is worn out where the bearing sits. Came up with this. It's a slinted bronze top hat style bearing, I opened up the original remains of the factory bearing to 26mm and pressed in the bearing and used flange sealant to help hold it. I then had to smooth the steering shaft where the bearing sits as it was quite worn and pitted. Had to get it down to 20mm I cracked the first top hat bearing so ordered a second, this time spent more time removing the high spots. Still quite tight to turn but prefer to go tight on clearances as being hand ground once the remaining high spots ware out it should be good. Fitted the centre of a A steering wheel to use as a steering adaptor. Just about time to start cutting the chassis centre cross member for gearbox room
Not sure if you can use this trick on your perch bores but a slit wood dowel and a strip of emery cloth make a decent flap type sander
All sorted Found out that the A perches I had were out of round. All good now Will throw it all under the chassis and see how long I need to make the steering drag link from pitman arm to the J arm. Any idea on how much clearance is needed under the wishbone for the tie rod? I'm at only a few mm
3/16 (5mm) should be plenty, less than that will be OK, it might rub if the drag link flexes , but it won't be an issue, you could gain some by putting all those washers ( or a single 1/4 inch spacer ) on the top of the axle at the perch bolt.
Hi 97, yes might try a solid 1/4" spacer for on top, have 2 hardened washers each side currently. All still in mock up so everything can change. Just nice seeing parts fit together
Checking if everything fits and working out where to cut the centre crossmember Starting to look something Still need a reverse eye spring. Also for any Aussies need help finding some small parts U bolt and rear 7 pack spring clamp, only have one of each
You can reverse your front spring yourself. Take the main leaf out of the pack. Lie it on its side on a piece of MDH (customwood). Draw a line along the curve of the spring with a marker....this is your reference . Now you can begin reversing the spring , either with a set of rollers, or a big hammer over a big V block , or do it like I did my first one back in 1976 , ......run it over ( lengthwise) with my pickup( front wheel)....roll back and forth , initially on the grass until it is flat and then on the concrete , with the spring eyes facing down , followed by rolling it with the eyes supported between a couple of pieces of 2" timber, then three inch timber if necessary, all the while checking against your reference line on the customwood..... reassemble with the spring eyes facing up and the rest of the spring as it was... It only took about 20-30 mins.... rough and ready, did the job at the time. I have a set of rollers now, but wouldn't hesitate to use the truck again.
My brother just reminded me that we put a couple of 3' metal bars through the spring eyes to stop the spring turning over sideways while we "worked" on it.
Ok, engine in after cutting the front of the centre crossmember Need to work out the radius rod, really want to keep it triangulated but might have to review my ideas yet. Thinking of a solid crossmember going across under the bellhousing to hold it, will get the "float A motor" mounts modified and rear of gearbox mounted first then work it out Lots of things to work out now
Mate, I'm in Melbourne and have a reverse eye spring, with all of the shackles and u-bolts to hold it in there. Let me know if interested, I could use the space. Even comes with axle / a-frame
I have that exact 37 type wishbone with the spring mount cut off. it's over 2" wider at the perch bolt mount unfortunately
Went to try the tie rod, length is perfect but found out I have a LHD steering one. At least I know my steering is done once I find a RHD one. Going to combine the wishbone mount and rear engine mount into one simple u shaped crossmember. The factory isolated the wishbone on the gearbox that way, I'm replicating it in a different way.
Starting to make my gearbox mount, started with a old modified Mopar A body gearbox mount and cut the ends off This is what I ended up with My plan is to hang this part off under the factory centre crossmember after it's been reinforced.
Ended up with this Now have to work out how to hang it under the crossmember The original idea I had would just not work
Back to plan A, gearbox is held up with this Now under the crossmember and ready for the small brackets
Engine and gearbox now fitted to chassis Started to get the engine ready for a test fire Made up a plug wire set from a $10 kit to suit a obscure 80s 4 cylinder. Just shortened it up. Still need a longer coil wire. Fitted the waterpump but needed to grind the end, I grindered (not a word I know) it but still need to remove another 1mm. That's where I left it for tonight.
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