Hi all! Pretty new on here! Starting a 30 Sedan build....one piece at a time. Bought the car in Idaho Falls back in May. Plans for a blown 331 Hemi, mild chop, no channel, 35 ford truck grille. Thanks for looking
Basic frame structure with swept A front rails. Lots more to do on the frame! I was just figuring out ride height. Modified 46 Ford bones on a speedway axle. Just a couple of mock up pics. One with the 331 setting in it.
With all due respect, those ground off welds on the frame look pretty scary. I'd be fishplating those, personally.
Like I said before, the frame isn't anywhere close to being done. All welds are full pen and blended. Guess I don't understand what's "scary"!
This guy welds, fabs and and fixes heavy equipment for underground mining... FYI, underground operators are not easy on their equipment nor do they care... so if his work can stand up to that I wouldn't sweat a frame for a hot rod
I decided I wanted more trans options than what you can get for the early 331 so I got the engine tore down tonight. I'm headed to Idaho next week so I'm going to drop it off at Troy's Engine in Rigby and have the extended bell cut off and a later style flange welded on. Wilcap has a lot more options for the later engines. Hopefully it works out!
This just proves that we cant judge a weld after grinding! It's a common belive on here, that if you grind your welds they are bad. I'm a trained and certified welder, and now works as an quality inspector on welds/steel construction. And unless you was there when welded, it's hard to tell the penetration from a fare, with no look at the back side. Its not good NDT to use a picture for testing! And please not take this as chest pounding, but as a thumbs up and pat on the back. Despite your first post that's channel, no chop! And I like it so fare! Keep at it, lad!
Thank you sir. I too am a certified structural welder and have been around lots of NDT techs over the years. It is my feeling that visible welds on frames are bad news. I would rather do a 100% weld and blend off the stress riser. And yes that was chop, and no channel. Car is sitting on the frame in those pictures..... and it is not channeled one bit. Chop will come later. Thanks again for the input!
I see you point of the welds. Eben when I worked as a welder, I've been welds that require post welding treatments, like heating and grinding flat. Most the welds that needed grinding flatwas inspected first, at least by UT. So my case is also to avoid flak in the future, by simply put the pics up pre-grinding. So you are saying this ain't channeled? What would you call it? Body dropped? Are you gonna run that truck grill like that or more straigth up You are missing five carbs in yor pic too
The body sits on top of the frame and will retain the factory floor height. I will post a picture with the door open for you. I am going to Ksmith30a is going to section the grill for me and it will sit straight up. As far as carbs go I want to do a 6-71 blower with 4 or 6 strombergs. Also a big thanks to Ksmith30a for the hemi, grill and other misc parts for the build!!
Nice build,but IMHO the truck grill shell,even sectioned is overpowering,a Model A or deuce grill would be tit's. HRP
I'm a union pipefitter/welder and if we touch the finished weld with a grinder, we're kicking rocks down the road.
Not welding on the pipeline here! I build and repair heavy equipment frames and have done frame updates with the manufacturers engineers( Caterpillar and Hitachi) watching every step of the way and on something that takes different stresses like a frame they make you blend everything. The toe of a weld is where a crack will start every time. Talking two different things here. I will post pics when the frame is actually done
I won't disrespect your welds here. I have worked with heavy equipment and welds that had to grind smooth enough to not appear to be welded before. You never need more weld then the metal that it is holding together. I would personally have a problem with that snow plow grill shell on something that I was driving, but if it makes you happy go with it.
The grill will be modified quite a bit from what it is in the picture but you guys might just be right! A 32 is always a good back up plan!
That's a great start! I'm jealous over the condition of that Tudor body; around here something that solid is hard to find! Keep up the good work- I'm looking forward to the HEMI part!! Pics are mandatory!
Thanks Mike! I definitely had to pay some cash for the car that's for sure haha! Hopefully it doesn't take too long for the block modifications so I can get a trans bolted to it and get going on the tunnel and floor.
Here is a couple pics with the door open. No channel or body drop. Just a whole lot of drop in the frame.
I really like that you can have the look of a channel, and still have room for head and a arse! But it would be cool to leave it unchopped! I dare you to be different! But that grill needs a lot af sectioning and work to look right. But even if it was cut like the one I showed you, it would still look like a unfished racecar. And that would let your good work down. But too me it would look good when the rear body line is visual over the rear wheel. But other then that you nailed the look.
Dogz30 You my friend are a gentleman. I think you controlled your replys well. I wish I could control my self as well mannered as you! Just an Observation from the corn field. Well played sir Don from a winter wonder land
It was Saturday yesterday, so where is your update? ☺ Remember to apply the BELCOM method after a long day of work! If you are unfamiliar with the term it means: pull it outside after a good day of work. Take a BEer, a Lawn Chair and play some Old Music and walk around the car and look at all the details. Look at the flow of the lines, look at all the details and look if things line up. There are some important rules two follow, like you hood line, or imaginary hood line from cowl top to grill shell too shouldn't go up to the grill. If you look at the line from the body belt line, has to go straigth from the rear of the body towards the grill has to be level (no rake) or a little nose down (rake) . But never rear down on a hot rod! Slight rear down is custom and nose bleed high in the front is gasser. I'm not saying these things because I think you did it wrong. But more to tell you why the BELCOM method is so important. Are you planning to keep the body color as is? Do you plan to run multiple carbs on that mill? Two or three pedals,
I'm kind of at a standstill til the motor comes back from getting the bell cut off. Then I can adapt my glide to it and start on the floor, firewall and tunnel. Not gonna chop the car until the very end of the build. I am also building custom sheet metal furniture on the side too so that's what I spent my time on last night. New ball joints on my lifted Duramax today. I also work minimum 60 hours a week as a welder/fabricator/machinist at the local Cat dealership. Definitely too many irons in the fire!
When you say glide, you mean the GM power glide, two speed automatic, know amongst drag racers as the power hop or one-shift-and-go? You work hard then. Is it correct to assume that you are around 30? Hence your screen name and the fact that you work so many hours?
I really wanted to to run 3 pedals but just don't think there's going to be room for that. So in the "traditional" sense a powerglide is my best option. I am actually 32 and been working since 13. I am a firm believer in hard work and being the absolute best at what you do. No room for BS here!
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