Just put in a master cyl/power booster with a firewall mount Bracket. if my feet were attached to my knee I would be good. Is it acceptable and safe to cut and weld the pedal shaft so it would be 5 0r 6 inches away from the fire wall instead of 10 inches. would this change the braking force , any suggestions would help.
side view picture would help us figure out what's going on there. It looks like you might have just put it up too high? but it's really hard to tell without seeing an overall view, from the side.
the brake foot pad is 8 inches off the floor I didn't realize when you added the power booster it reused the pedal as well. Well guess I will lower and patch , thanks
It does look way too high. A car with a slanted toe board would have the pedal pad hit the angled board (like while bleeding). Normally the spot would be downwards a bit from the top of the toeboard
you might also consider moving it to the left a few inches? I like to take my time when installing the control stuff for a car...seat position, steering wheel, pedals, are kind of important, and you want to make sure you get it right, so it's comfortable to drive.
There are two important concerns you need to be aware of; pedal ratio and pedal travel. If your going from manual to a power system, the present ratio is probably 6:1 or more, and should/could be reduced to a 3-4:1 range. That will allow you to shorten the pedal arm, reducing ratio, and gaining some room. The other concern is overall travel. You have to be able to fully stroke the master cylinder in order to utilize the added safety of a dual system.
When I was working on mine it seems like 7" off the floor was standard. I read it some where then measured my cars and it was close. Go measure your everyday driver. I also believe the clutch pedal is in ahead of the brake by a little.
modern cars and old cars are not the same, the seating position, floor shape, firewall shape etc are different. Don't go by modern cars. I would try to put it as close to the original pedal position as possible, although with the pedal hanging instead of pivoting under the floor, it will be only an approximation. you really need to have a seat, steering wheel, etc in there and get it all to work together. Asking for some number of inches off the floor isn't going to be very helpful.
maybe I should be working on different prats of my project then. I see what you are saying about the seat and all just never thought about it. You always learn a lot on a first build.
Thanks will patch tonight and move lower I was figuring on 7 inches thanks . I made a dummy steering column to test as well.
Some time these are better off under the floor, especially in an car without much dash depth also frees up the firewall space for a cleaner more traditional look.
Controls and seat position have to all work together and work for you, where it feels good to you. I just changed my seat position in my drag coupe, for more comfort , I must of had the seat in and out 20 times till I got it where it felt real good.
I lowered the master seems to have helped the pedal is still a couple inches too foreward so when I get the brakes completed I will have to cut and adjust pedal.
WP38 inmo even tho you have dropped the master cylinde----from looking at both pic--- you are still too high and too close to the tranny tunnel. It looks like the pedal pad is right where your accel pedal should by the side of the tunnel. Jim M
I'd also be looking at where the steering column will be, other factors are is it manual or automatic are you a 1 footed or 2 footed driver. If you are 2 footed and it is to the right of the steering column you'll have a dangerous situation. Things are always more complicated than they should be.
No I have room floor almost flat thanks . Will take a pic Th350 automatic. column will fit to the left of brake pedal thanks
Lots of good advice here. But nobody answered your question about cutting the brake arm. If the welding is done right it doesn't hurt to cut it.
Yes, cutting and properly welding the brake arm is OK. but the reason I suggested moving it down, is that he probably would have had to lengthen it also, which does affect how it works.
Do not finalize your pedals including the gas pedal until you have your seat and steering wheel and column mounted. I spent a lot of time laying out my 27 roadster ( very small ) and could not be happier or more comfy. Gary
I wasn't trying to undo what you guys had told him. He'd have the pedal ratio off if he only made it longer instead of dropping the whole pedal assembly down
if you cut it and weld it so it is closer to the firewall, make sure you can still get full travel. you will also have to support that pedal bracket, back to the top of the dash, to keep the firewall from flexing.
Thanks update have the steering column loose in place. Should go a couple inches through fire wall . I can also bring it up an inch or so. , I won't adjust brake pedal until I get the brakes installed and full bleeding done, Lots to think about,
Is your column located w/regard to steering wheel diameter and door window sill clearance? The driver side dash opening appears offset in your setup. Often it would be centered in an OEM setup
ruffed in the steering column today more work ahead stiffening up the fire wall next , Just long enough ,
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