Register now to get rid of these ads!

Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jhnarial, Sep 16, 2008.

  1. Marty, do you think your bike will run as good as this kids moped?
     
    chriseakin likes this.
  2. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Vicky, I don't think it will run like that one. But here is shot of me, taking my Brothers bike for a test ride, after building him a gas tank.. Just like any 66 year old guy should be acting !!!!! IMG_5215.JPG
     
  3. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,482

    MP&C
    Member

    Recently I took delivery of a ball glove pounding pad, $39 on Amazon per a link posted by Johnny Arial on AllMetalShaping. It was very light, and where I did not give it a go with a sheet metal test sample, something in me wanted to see what was inside the bag. So here we go, can't leave well enough alone... o_O

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Looks like a high density felt pad...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My previous shot bag had become a casualty inside of a quarter panel when using it as a dolly... It found a sharp piece of metal which caused the tear... and I caused the cut so I could empty it out and pull it out of the cavity it was in.. It had approx. 50 lbs or better of lead shot in it at the time, and for some reason I didn't think about removal when I was dropping it in the hole.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So I had put in an order last night for another bus seat cover (Kevlar material) and took it today with all the pieces to Anthony's Upholstery. This one is a bit smaller, so also more manageable. I think I had about 1/3 of the 50 lbs left over, so may have to make another smaller shot bag..

    Comparison, the old to the new one..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Something told me when that Amazon order was placed that this thing would have lead shot inside before all was said and done.. It does make a nice shot bag, and has a nice look. :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    BigOr likes this.
  4. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I built a fan shroud for my '53 Ford COE. Using the newer chassis, the engine is mounted with some offset, requiring the opening to match. The material is .063, 5052 alloy aluminum. IMG_5643.JPG IMG_5644.JPG IMG_5646.JPG IMG_5648.JPG IMG_5662.JPG IMG_5663.JPG IMG_5665.JPG
     
  5. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,889

    Marty Strode
    Member

    This is a dragster cowl section I built for a friend of mine. It is .050, 3003 alloy, the toughest part was adding the wings, to attach to his new rear side panels. IMG_5651.JPG IMG_5652.JPG IMG_5654.JPG IMG_5656.JPG
     
    oldgoaly likes this.
  6. Ognib
    Joined: Mar 15, 2013
    Posts: 113

    Ognib
    Member
    from Mo

    1:8 scale for my deuce project.
    Development of bucks & practice panels.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]\

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    b-bop, selectedgrub, oldgoaly and 6 others like this.
  7. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    Lower air deflector 37 Dodge Brothers PU Replica Maytag toy racer body to be finished by owner. "Old school" louvers made with new tooling. Hood scoop. Replica Graham Bradley fan shroud. John 37 DB air deflector.JPG 2nd Maytag Toy Racer.JPG old school louvers.JPG 000_0020_resized.JPG Graham Bradley fan shroud.jpg
     
    oldgoaly and loudbang like this.
  8. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,457

    oj
    Member

    A 60's Impala fan shroud, it needed to be an 1/8 wider on each side for the new radiator. Buckin' rivets.
     

    Attached Files:

    stealthcruiser, hrm2k and 36 ROKIT like this.
  9. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    Trunk skin panels and passenger door skin panel. 102_2295.JPG 102_2294.JPG
     
    BigOr, oldgoaly and Jet96 like this.
  10. ^^^^Yowza; nice work! Is that a Detroit Electric?
     
  11. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    It's a just restored 1915 Milburn Light Electric Coupe, the 6th one built just after a road test last week.
    The car was built before welding was perfected therefore nothing in it's construction is welded.
    As far as metalshaping goes the 4 quarter panels are original aluminum and beautifully shaped. There are no visible seams in those panels. The running boards are cast aluminum with boot scrapers. The door skins, trunk skins and fenders are steel.
    Thanks for the compliment. Restoring this one has been a long haul. John
     
    oldgoaly likes this.
  12. First generation "smart car" ?
    I think I can see the family resemblance :)
     
  13. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,482

    MP&C
    Member

    Needed to duplicate a scooter fender... 1954 Montgomery Wards. The front fender had gone missing over the years, and I was sent the rear fender as a sample..


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Tuck shrinking along the edges and blocking the center on a sand bag....


    [​IMG]


    Some wheeling....


    [​IMG]


    Trimming some of the excess on a Beverly...


    [​IMG]


    More shrinking on a post dolly....


    [​IMG]

    In the homestretch now...


    [​IMG]


    Marked for trimming...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Tipping wheel to set the side flange....


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Profile comparison, front to rear...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    .....and side to side...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    cretin, john worden, oldgoaly and 3 others like this.
  14. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,482

    MP&C
    Member

    The original (rear) had been loose at some point as the fender mounting holes were nice and elongated from flopping around. So I'll get them filled in and Randy will need to match drill them to the frame..


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Use the right tools for the job ;)


    [​IMG]


    After marking, when cutting out such a small piece I like to leave a "handle" until the very end..


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    ....gives you something to hold onto while fine tuning the fit


    [​IMG]


    Nice and snug....


    [​IMG]


    Tacking in the filler piece...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    Next was to trim a nice radius on the front and back ends of the new front fender....


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Last on the list, the forming process with the old fender left some "pie crust" edging, as seen here and in an original photo...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    So we needed a special tool in order to duplicate this feature...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Spacing all marked out....


    [​IMG]


    Finished edge...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    All ready for delivery!
     
    cretin, whtbaron, oldgoaly and 6 others like this.
  15. godlemmy
    Joined: Apr 5, 2006
    Posts: 61

    godlemmy
    Member

  16. whtbaron
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 579

    whtbaron
    Member
    from manitoba

    Any comments on using lead shot compared to other materials... ie, silicon sand, etc. I was thinking of having a leather pillow made and filling it with wheat. Just wondering if there's a real need for the weight of the lead shot or if all you need is the "give" of a fluid material....
     
  17. CadMad
    Joined: Oct 20, 2012
    Posts: 876

    CadMad
    Member

    Here are some interior pieces i made for a 53 Eldo. All but the lower ss strip made from scratch. rps20150424_180303.jpg
     
  18. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,482

    MP&C
    Member

    When Peter Tommasini was at the shop earlier this month he told me that given constant daily use and enough time, the lead shot would get flat spots in it. With my shop being less than "full time", it was not as likely to occur. He uses sand in his bags, which is much more economical that lead. I would suggest sand instead of the wheat, you do need a bit of mass there as well..
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2015
    whtbaron likes this.
  19. MP&C
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,482

    MP&C
    Member

    CadMad, nice job on those interior pieces
     
  20. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,408

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I use steel shot. Stays round.
     
    whtbaron likes this.
  21. xpletiv
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 938

    xpletiv
    Member
    from chiburbs

    Good to see you continuing. :)
     
  22. Erik B
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,959

    Erik B
    Member

    Great work! Here is a grille shell being made out of aluminum. Upside down. Still have a long way to go.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    ha!
    That's cheating ;)
    I'm currently doing one ...... one piece, no welds.
    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG] [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    • 037.JPG
      037.JPG
      File size:
      170.2 KB
      Views:
      210
  24. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,408

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Those grill shell bottoms are similar to the one I built for my drag RPU. I used the top half of a rusty '24 Chev piece. Also the body was hand fabbed. After this car became the dominant car in its "street" class efforts were made to outlaw it. Look closely at the driver's side of the body. At one point a rule was made that "all cars running in Street Class had to have a working door." I grabbed a sabre saw, cut the embossed door skin off, added door jambs, fabbed a hinged door, and showed up the next week as a "door car". On the inside of the door is a painted message, "Got Door?"


     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
    loudbang and David Gersic like this.
  25. Erik B
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,959

    Erik B
    Member

    Nice R&R. Do you have more pics of your process?
     
  26. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

  27. Erik B
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,959

    Erik B
    Member

    I see. Some shrinking on the flange. Came out nice. Please update when you get more done.
     
  28. Mindover
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,645

    Mindover
    Member
    from England

    Thought I would add a little to this thread. This is part of my '27 T build. I made the firewall and cowl frame then came time to make the skin of the cowl.
    [​IMG]


    I took a paper pattern from a friend's tourer body.

    [​IMG]

    ...cut a blank from a 19g steel

    [​IMG]

    David
     
    cretin likes this.
  29. Mindover
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,645

    Mindover
    Member
    from England

    I marked the centre point and formed the radius on each side of the cowl.

    [​IMG]

    I blocked the area at the outer portion of the cowl corners. This gives me the metal to create the flare in the back edge of the cowl.

    [​IMG]

    More soon

    David
     
    cretin and MP&C like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.