building a 29 Model A closed cab any helpfull hints???

My dad handed over the key's last year. the truck is a basket case and was missing the bed. I bought a new Brookville Bed just waiting for it to come in. I picked up a sweet 53 Mercury Flathead. most all the mods I was looking to do have all-ready been done. just need to freshen it up and add a hotter cam. I found some frame Boxing kits on Ebay seems that would make thing's pretty easy for that part. just need to figure out the steering & suspension part. and what to run for a rearend?? Motor Mount's ?? It does have the F1 style waterpumps and even came with the F1 trans setup. I still need to drag the truck to my house. but that won't stop me from finding part's I need to build it. I am not looking to build a show stopper. it will probably be flat black for a couple years. just would like to get the thing going and back on the road. dropped axle front??? 4link rear??? not sure the best and reasonable way to go about this part. I am very good at finding parts just need to know what to look for. I hope by this time next week to have some good pics to post. I do work as a Ford diesel tech during the week. and have the use of the shop tools. it seems the members here are a wealth of knowledge and I hope to gain some of that .



Thanks Ray

 

Buy Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel's book; "How to Build a Traditional Hot Rod". Memorize it and build your pickup using their roadster as a model.

$17.13 on Amazon. It'll be the BEST expenditure you EVER make.

Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Traditional-Ford-Revised/dp/0760309000#reader_0760309000

 

First thing I would do is forget about a 4 link. They look terrible under an A chassis. Definatly get the Mike Bishop book. It is the assembly manual you will need.

Oh yea, go on a diet. Those things have ZERO room in them. I know, I have one.

 

Im currently buildin a '29 aswell. To save some time and aggrevation, I went with a Brookville frame. I went with a 4-link front/back with a 9" ford rearend. Being powered by a '87 302HO (306). Im running a vega steering box with a 3" tubular drop axle. Was gonna be driven by a mustang t5, but ran into a problem installing it with the motor. The shifter was located right below the rear cross member. So, now im on a mission for a chevy s10 t5, which will put the shifter forward of the cross member. Jus not sure what will all be involved in the change-out. I can help ya out from what ive learned in this wild adventure.

Kevin

 

Stretch the cab and shorten the bed. Gary

 

if you are building it with Stock Cab size,plan on having a potato chip thin seat back as they were built for short people (not much room )

 

that tardel book explains how to add an F1 steering box w/ column which sounds like it would fit your project perfectly.

 

Three questions that need to be answered: (1) How tall are you? (2) Are you chopping it & how much? (3) Are you channeling it & how much?

 

This is critical. The '28-'29 cab is TINY. It is one step up from riding in your beer cooler. If you are set on chopping and channeling, be conservative.

 

Hanging pedals and remove the 45 dgree toeboard. That will gain you a ton of legroom. Ton being relative. I am 5'9ish and a stock cab is a tight fit. Tough to make a stretched one look right. Chuck Deheras is the only one I have liked.

 

I have no plans to alter the cab. I will be running full fenders on this also. it sounds like this will be a really tight fit I am 6'3" . I plan to have it built so my dad can drive it. he has owned it for a very long time and must have wanted to drive it at one point. so I plan to make that happen. good thing he is 5'9".
I will deal with me fitting in it later. I will look into (Hanging pedals and remove the 45 degree toeboard) Like Tman said that should help out alot. thanks guy's for the info and on the book. that should send me in the rite direction. This post has only been up for less then a day and you guy's have helped out alot.

Thanks Ray

Ps has anyone used the pree cut Boxing panels?? and what way would you go solid or with the holes cut in it. or little of both. meaning solid for the ears but holes for the rest maybee to run wires and fuel/brake lines through??

 

Here is a little info I bet most people dont know. The 28-29 closed cab is the same front to rear as a 2000 S-10 standard cab. This does not mean that there is the same amount of room inside. A lot of room is gained by moving the steering wheel closer to the dash. A thinner seat helps too. I went with the stock pedals in the floor and didnt have too much trouble. I am 6ft and was wasnt bad. But I loved the truck so much I wouldnt have know if it was. Lol. There is a nice build up of one on here that shows step by step and would be a good place to start reading. Build what ya like and enjoy....

 

Also if you do a search there are at least TWO good picture threads for ideas.

 

Here is my build. I wanted a more traditional truck. I used Vern Tardell's book a lot.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540287

 

Make your own boxing plates, some 1/8 x 6 x 20, a cut off wheel, and a large piece of cardbourd. 42 bucks and a little work.

 

I am running a '40 banjo rearend, SBC with s-10 5 spd., vega steering box. good luck!

 

here are some pics of what I have out. most of the sheet metal is up in the rafters. I have a new Brookville bed on it's way. and some pics of the motor I picked up. I need to clean and freshin up the motor. add a Hotter cam too.

 

i have one but it's my B/U trans.. you don't have to change out the entire trans though, just the tailshaft.

 

Glad to see another cracker box being built.Keep us updated.There is a social group on here too (box truck bastards) . feel free to join us.

 

Nice goodies on that flatmotor! Here's a link to a good one,too.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=533458&highlight=kcta+chris

 

If you haven't gotten to ordering boxing plates yet, we have them, even listed here on the HAMB, everyone has been happy with them. Personally I would go with the solid 1/8" ones, and I also think you will like the ease of use of our easy weld design that allows clamping to the chassis easily, but also allows for a nice weld gap so there is no worry of grinding too much, and it allows for great penetration. If you get a set that is just cut to the exact size of the frame rail, or cut them yourself, you should atleast grind a bevel on the edge of the plates both top and bottom, so you can get good welding penetration.

Here is our Classified
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557572&highlight=boxing+plates

Thanks,
Brian =)

 

Thanks for the info on the boxing plates. I am going a different route. no plates but running a 32 K member to stiffen it up and handle the built flatty.

 

I did the conversion: changed out the tail housing and went with the short shift rail. Had to relocate and convert to a chevy speedo gear. Give it a shot and see how it works out. Put the shifter 6" in front of the center cross member.

 

Ok its time to update the post some. I pulled the motor apart and found water sat in one of the cylinders and caused some damage. and the heads were junk . so I was looking for parts on craigslist and found Ken Makuch, and he talked me into going big or going home. so I collected up some new parts . custom 4 3/8" scat crank Scat rods and Ross Pistons. Navarro Heads . 4 97's for my Tattersfield intake. custom ground Cam Etc. picked up a 32 brake and clutch pedal assembly . 40 rear end, 46 radius rods,46 spindles 46 juice brakes front and rear. still need to find a 33-34 unsplit wishbone. just collecting parts no real work has started. plan to order a new Rodsville V8 quick change . figured I could find an old one for around the same $$ but who knows what's left of it. I have a goal of 300 HP at the crank . so no need to guess if the rear diff will hold up. also need to pick up a 32 heavy axle. I have a 39 truck trans but might go with a zepher if I find the right one. still having fun tracking down the parts.

 

I put new cab corner panels with a 6-1/2" stretch, put a short stake bed with locking storage and build a square tube seat frame for a pair of BesTop CJ-7 seats.

 

Does any one have any pictures of Chuck's stretched cab? I saw some under construction shots in an old "Rod Action" mag, maybe back around summer '95 or '96.

Later, Kinky6

 

I drive a 30 closed cab and it's chopped four inches,with the '29 I wouldn't chop it,they cool stock and you will want the head room

 

I have no plans to chop the roof. I did try sitting in the truck . it has no column in it and just the OG seat frame no padding. and I kinda fit. I think i will try different seat height's first. with as thin a back as possible. as short of a steering column as I can go so to keep it close to the dash. I already picked up 32 pedal assm. to go with the 32 k member. once I mock up the drive-line and have the k member were it needs to go I will see how the pedals work out. thanks for the Idea's I am sure I will use some.

 

Ok it's been a while and I have taken a small brake, but getting back into it. Since the last post I've picked up a clean 32 grill she'll , a clean 33-34 wishbone and today a nice clean 32 heavy axle . Need to send out the axle and have it dropped. It is harder then I thought to find the correct parts . Or at least the ones I want to run. Then finding the funds to get them is equally as fun.

 

Axle