Here is an idea for some simple and cheap stands for lifting or prolonged storage during the build process. 4x4 CCA stock cut into 12" lengths. Criss cross and screw together with coated deck screws. Top is 3/4" plywood. Stack to whatever height you need. In this day of outrageous concrete costs, many shop buildings are being left in gravel with a platform of plywood for the car. In this case, these stands can be screwed to the floor, they will never tip or move. For lifting, I really like house screw jacks. They are adjustable by minute amounts, and will lift the heaviest car, truck, or tractor. More importantly, they come down under load smoothly as opposed to an oopsie of turning a hydraulic jack a wee bit to far. In the photo, you can see the house jack on the platform with a 2x6 used for the beam under the frame. I drilled a shallow 7/8" paddle bit relief for the spring bolts to eliminate any possibility of the beam moving. Another little trick is to put thin bubble wrap under the springs, the pop, pop, pop, will tell you when you have pressure on the beam. There you go; cheap, easy, safe ! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have sued one of everything at one time or another, but I have seen stands built like this and they are stable and unbreakable.
I like the bubble wrap idea. The only problem is that the grandkids make sure that all of the bubbles are popped before I get the bubble wrap.
Good idea that might keep someone from getting hurt. I save just about every short 4x4, 4x6 and 6x6 wood block I come across to block things up and have been known to stop and pick some of them up out of the middle of the road where they fell off a truck.
I've built a set similar to 325W; they sure come in handy! I've also built a few sets of the wooden jack stands, only I pyramided mine (starting with a wide base and gradually narrowing toward the top)...one set was specifically for the Bug, where the top block had a radius cut to saddle the rear torsion housing, making for a secure and stable jack stand when pulling the motor.
Great idea. On the other end of spectrum (if space is unlimited), I saw someone mention the (gone out of business) car dealer ramp too. But I like your idea better.
Here is another photo of a taller set under a heavy touring car. Note screwed to the floor as mentioned above. Also a pack of composite shims are your friend. They will take up any slack, and won't crush like wood. These were originally built to help a friend restore a 50's Mercedes Adenauer sedan. It sat on those stands for three years and never budged. I never looked up the actual weight of that rascal, but it certainly was as heavy as it was beautiful !
I stack a 14 inch rim in a 15 inch rim and sometimes a 16inch rim under that. I have some that are welded together. I removed the centers on those to lighten them. I never have to worry about those collapsing and a tire will set in the depression. Ive got a air jack to lift vehicles around the shop. And use a JD backhoe out on the yard.
we use cribbing like that all the time to jack up heavy equipment ( like a 40 ton Cat ) , never seen it fail to date , and if you put the crossblocks 3" from the end you do not need to bolt them together the weight will pin it together and make it more stable
I made a set of 4 from 8 odd rim width 14" steel wheels matched to get a consistent 12" height. Welded the pairs together at the rim edges with 3 evenly spaced 2" beads. As noted above a tire fits in the depression. I use a wood shim if using them for support under steel. Was in a hurry when I first needed 'em so left the centers in, bit heavy but they have worked out well for me so far. No shop yet or JD hoe but I've gotten by so far with the chain hooks welded on the bucket of my Massey for the quick and dirty lifts, and assortment of underneath jacks for the more fussy work. Ed
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