I have a set of 15"x 3.5" aluminum slots that seem to have an odd shank diameter. I thought they were Appliance slots as that is what center caps they had on them. I ordered a set of Gorilla's Appliance lug nuts and center bushings. However the bushings measure .850" O.D. and my holes are .800". They also aren't counter bored as most Appliance wheels seem to be. I spoke with my local machinist and he can ream the holes out to fit the bushings and leave the shoulder flush with the face of the wheel. The wheel flange is about 1.25" thick and the bushing is .50" from bottom of the shoulder, so this would leave the stud unsupported on the sides about .75". Is that acceptable? (they do have the uni-lug pattern on the back so part of it will never be supported.) Or does the bushing need to extend all the way through the face of the wheel just shy of the brake rotor? I've also looked high and low for a .800" shank lug nut and can't find anything. If anyone has a source please let me know. Thanks
Can your machinist counter bore the holes, so the bushing sits in a bit closer to the hub? Since it's a front wheel, and relatively narrow and little offset, I would feel comfortable running them with the bushing .75" away from the hub. You might also see about making or having made some custom bushings. This would be easiest if you had a lathe.
The hole in the wheel is smaller than the bushing or the lug shank? I am confused. I don't use bushings in any of my aluminum wheels is why I am asking.
The holes in the wheels are bigger than the shank of any lug nut you can buy. But the holes are smaller than any bushing that you can buy.
Ok now I understand. I somehow lost the logic in the discussion. Seems to me like the simplest solution is to find a bushing that is close and bore the hole.
I thought about making new bushings, but the bushing is stepped internally and takes a special lug nut. I'll ask my machinist about counter boring, but it's starting to be more time and $$ than I want to spend on these. I'm just confused to what they originally had. Essentially these are 13/16" and the appliance are 7/8". However, in all my digging I can't find any 13/16" shank diameter lugs. Here's a pic of the lugs and bushings I bought.
Well the holes are .8125 now and you want to fit a lug with a .875 shank correct? then it should be as simple as reaming them .0625 or 1/16. I guess I am not understanding the problem, but I am normally void of understanding when it comes to these things. I guess if it were me and I had lugs with shanks that were 1/16" too big around I would just snag a drill bit and drill them out.
The easiest solution would be to lathe turn the bushings down to the .800 diameter. You may have to grind off the chrome first, but anyone with a lathe should be able to turn down the bushings.
I've never used a bushing either. Have you checked McGuard, they have just about everything. Are you looking for a certain car type, say ford or Chevy ? Another option would be switch lugs if you found the right shank in a different style.
porknbeaner - Correct ( well ream to the .875 bushing) and that is how I am proceeding. My original question was wondering (maybe overthinking) does the bushing need to extend the full width of the wheel? Since this bushing is only long enough to go through about half way until the shoulder hits the face of the rim, unless we counter bore. This leaves a gap for the first 3/4" between the stud and the wheel. (7/16" stud in the 7/8" hole) However, I can't counter bore to deep as it is the unilug oval on the backside. Like I said above, I don't want to get that deep in these. Sounds like the gap might not be an issue, I have to get longer studs anyways. I'll just replace with some high strength ARP's if I do. FritzJr - I contemplated that as well but thought I'd rather have a "standard" hole so if I lost a bushing I wouldn't have to modify its replacement. I guess I could make extras. Again fitting it to the hole is not really the issue, just trying to determine if the length is safe.
I have tried: McGuard Gorilla Mr. Lugnut Jegs Summit and a million different google searches, its been a royal PITA Closest things I've found are .800" shank diameter nuts for Dually Wheels, but only came in metric threads. These are going on Mustang II rotors with 7/16x20 studs.
If you can counter bore and not have the busing sticking past the meat of the flange than counter boring would be the best thing you can do. If you are going to bush the best you can do is have as much busing on contact with as much meat as possible. I wish I could tell you what you got or what it is that you are working with because that would at least answer one of your questions.
did you know ET made some mags with a insert like you show that used a larger tem lug nut ( vs the .625 standard unit ) they had a pop in insert in a oval hole on the back with a aluminum filler block and the chrome insert that went into the front . they were a odd ball .and 4 3/4 -5 .5 BC pattern . might it be one of them , they were not labeled like a standard ET mag either they used small font on the lip
That hole is big, I just checked the shank on Fenton Gyro, Weld and some US Indy wheels I have. They all seem to be in the .675 range.
Just as a long shot - There is a guy who restores vintage aluminum wheels for a living. I know he sells wheel packages including lug nuts and center caps. Since he seems to be dealing with just about every brand of old wheels, he may have sources or solutions for lug issues like yours. detroitvintagewheels.com I haven't dealt with them, but from what I have read on some of the OT sites he straight shooter. It would be worth a call to see if he has an easy solution.
I forgot to mention AKH, I tried them first. I asked for 13/16 and he told me all he had were 7/8. Stimpy - you might be on to something. I did not know that. The wheels are 4.75 bolt circle but could be drilled bigger based on the rear slot. I'll search tonight for the ET setup.
Hard to tell exactly as the pic is kind of small but I believe so. ( I left them at the shop) The back side has the uni-lug oval and the bolt circle is on the inside edge. The only casting marks I saw said "meets SEMA specs" and "for racing use only" no brand name visible
yea thats it, except my lug holes are really close to the same width as the unilug slot. So you can sort of see where the bushing I have will stop and not extend all the way to the rotor. My concern is side load on the studs from the face of the rotor until they enter the lugnut. Or should I be concerned at all?
If the shank nut holes in your wheels are 7/8" in diameter then you want what is called a duplex style shank nut. Google mag shank nut and you will find several suppliers that have them. If they are 13/16" you could have a machine shop make some mild steel bushings the right size to use the duplex nut.
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