Building a 31 model A coupe already channeled 4" and subfloor built now time to chop. I would like to chop it between 3"-4". At 3" I would have 2" of headroom. If I go to 3-1/2" then 1-1/2" of headroom. I am 5'-8" and building a bench seat, I realize I can install buckets if I have to pick up some room. My question is: How much headroom do you really need is 1-1/2" or 2" enough. Not too worried about passengers as I usually roll alone. Any help is appreciated
Lower the floor. I've got a friend that's 6'4". Both his model "A" pickup and his 2dr. sedan are VERY low. That is chopped and channled. I'm 6" and the tops of both cars are about nipple height on me. What he does beside what you mention in using thin bottom seats, is that he's lowered the floors almost to the frame bottom. He's made a slightly wider driveshaft tunnel to house both the driveshaft and the exhaust. He drives these cars all over the SoCal area. The pickup is his work truck. Mike
I am 6-feet in height and running about two inches of headroom (beneath the rollbar) in my '34 coupe, and have never had a problem bumping my head. But I have never had it on a bumpy road. The larger issue is vision...I have to scrunch down to watch stoplights. I first would figure out what chop you want and then design the seating to fit that. That's placing the car's looks in front of practicality, but if we were all practical we wouldn't have hotrods!
I like it the way it is but i dig east coast style builds. i wouldnt chop it any more than 2 1/2 to 3". also think about going with 1" less cut out of back window area if you go more than 21/2". just my 2 cents,cool car by the way.
It is looking great and will look better chopped. How about some more pictures of how you did the floor. Was the trans tunnel a kit or did you fabricate it? I am getting ready to do mine now.
i am 5'-10". mine is chopped 4" and slightly channeled. Suzuki Sidekick seat, almost on the floor. enough headroom but vision is the problem. I would recommend 2-1/2" max.
As funny as it may sound{its a combo of stance and seating with the body,doing a chop first or mid build seem to come out to be" I would of done less chop if I'd known " later on after driving. The driving of a car tells you a lot in the hopefully short time between finel finish of nice shiny paint an finish upholstery{but do have seats an all padding in car,drive for at lest around town for a few hr.,then you'll have a pertty good idea,if you still can't pin point the chop you want,tape a strip of cardborad along the top of windshield the amount of chop your thinking about an drive around some,dosn't take too long to say to your self this sucks or not. Over the years,there been a few guys bring choped jobs in to my shop,had me left there top back up some{cost more then the chop did to start with] other's just asked,but sold there over chopped car to next guy,so he could deal with finding out the "thought of as cool look",was not cool. Its wroth your time to get it right,being practical is under rated more then over=if you can't drive it in some comfort ,it will not get driven as much and that is fact.
One other thing I have seen is to increase the angle on the seat back. lowers the head position, while still keeping some padding under your butt. Like it is said above, try and set up everything else before you cut it. I hope that exhaust pipe across the front of the firewall does not add too much heat to the floor.
Thanks Dana makes a lot of sense, I've done the tape thing. Car isn't ready to drive yet, but I'm leaning towards less chop as I want to drive this car, I had a 31 pickup that was radically chopped and channeled, my knees were too close to the steering wheel and didn't enjoy the drive, sold it to a guy 4" shorter than me.
I drove a chopped and channeled A. It was a glass body that was chopped and channeled 4". The seat was thin and on the floor,the column had to be placed perfectly so that it could even be driven at all. It was a 4 speed car and my knees barely fit under the steering wheel to shift it. Good luck seeing traffic lights. This car was finished in our shop and I ended up driving it more than the owner of the car who died shortly after it was finished.
If you have anywhere from 1/2" to 2" in your chopped coupe sitting static will be plenty of room,but if you plan on driving the car take in consideration the real world driving conditions. Bumps,railroad tracks and potholes combined with suspension travel and your headroom will be greatly diminished. I never chopped my deuce pickup and I'm 6' 4" tall and I have bumped my noggin after hitting a pothole. HRP
I'd leave it alone as a tall fat guy the whole chopped top thing isn't really a headroom issue, but a vision issue. It's a pain to see anything in a chopped car for me at least at 6'2". They look cool as hell don't get me wrong, but I'm all about driving my cars and being comfortable.
my 30 coupe is chopped 3" and channeled 3". the floor is even with the top of the frame rails. seat is bench with 3 1/2 " risers and the seat padding is a bit thin. I am 5'6" and my head just barely touches the headliner. If you are the first guy at the light, you are leaning over to see it. it has a C4 trans, I doubt there would be room to work a clutch. I have a bad back and a bad left knee, and I have to "back" into the car to get past the steering wheel.
Had a friend with an old Bonneville '34 3 window and when he stopped at a red light he turned to the right and looked out the side window.
I have a 3" chop with 4" channel. I used a dodge mini van seat with the back flat on the floor and a 2 1/2 rise in the front. I'm 5'8 and have no headroom issues.
I've chopped a 30 sedan 5 inches, and a 28 coupe 5.5 inches. On both I redid the header above the windshield. By raising it 1.25-1.5 inches it really helps the vision, and I also kept the hinged windshield on both cars.
Form follows function. That means that the function is primary and the form or look is secondary. It's easy get something that looks cool but just doesn't work. Chopping and channeling get the look (form) & it's a lot of work towards the form. Dropping the floor pan below the top of the rail make that look or form functional. Running 1" tube on top of the frame for a floor structure is easy and looks good (form) but that raises the floor and takes another inch of head room and vision which goes against the function. If you measure from the top of that type of floor to the bottom of the rail there's at least 5" of space. Lowering the seats into that space is also a lot of work, but it's work towards the function of your modification to the form. My model A Vicky has 9-1/2" (5" shorter than a coupe) side windows and measures 44" from floor to roof skin.