Hi. I need your help again. 327 in a 54 chevy pickup running a 4160 I think 4 barrel. Stamped with B1850-1. Started running rough at tickover as I came home today and I see that the two rear barrels, I take it these are the secondary's are flooded. Where do I start? Once she had cooled down, I did start her up and check the float height. Both seemed good. Just a little leakage if I rocked the truck a bit. She ran absolutely fine then but I took her for a spin and I live down an unmade rough road so I have to trickle down for about half a mile. She started to yet again run very lumpy and slow on tick over. I whipped off the air filter and there was a lot of fuel sitting in the two rears again. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
I did have one when my distributor came loose that blew the plug off the back of the carb but I have done about a thousand miles since then with no problem.
More than likely crap in the sec. needle & seat.....take it out & clean it ...that doesn't work, replace it [you can get a complete rebuild kit w/everything for about $30 on the bay..quick fuel makes a very inclusive kit] dave
Yes Needle and seat might have a piece of dirt lodged there.Holleys are known for that yet its the only carb I ever use.
I'm with others in stating needle and seat. I had an ongoing issue with secondaries flooding and just removing and cleaning made no difference. I went thru 3 sets of needle/seats and each one off them lasted maybe 1000 miles. My problem was the pulsating from the electric fuel pump at 7 lbs pressure kept taking it's toll on the o rings of the needle/seat. A fuel pressure regulator fixed that problem for good but eventually I got tired of the holley's on going deficiencies (it was a swap meet/used carb when I got it) and I ended up buying a new 1850. These carbs are notorious for wear at the throttle shafts and depending on how far you have your foot into it, They will either leak fuel (at shaft) or draw air -thus throwing off your air/fuel ratios as well as making them a bitch to tune (impossible). After putting all that time and money into a used carb I could have almost bought a new one. .
replace the gaskets behind the metering plate and metering block, they shrink over time and then your heap will run like crap, use holley gaskets only
Probably not power valve related, if blown, most fuel would go down vacuum passage trough base plate. One thing not usually considered is O rings on the needles and seats. Can seep just enough to let fuel drip out boosters without significant rise in fuel level.
And,like 2old2fast said,a rebuild kit will take care of most problems.Do check your fuel pressure,I never liked to run over 5 lbs on a carbureted engine.
Thanks all for the advice. Gives me an idea where to go from here. There seems to a general tone of dislike for the Holley carbs in general. If I wanted to replace the carb altogether, what should I be looking for?
I've had no more trouble w/ holley than any other brand carb , haters gonna hate...I like mine just fine .. dave
Any carb you put on, you will have to tune it...get a kit and rebuild it, check you fuel pressure, no more that 5 PSI, replace you filter.
also check the float to make sure its not leaking ( white ones ) or melting ( black foam ones) as it will deteriorate over time unless its a brass one and those take longer than the plastic ones . and they will slowly raise the fuel levels over time . on the rear needles and seats what kills them is people do not blow the carbon out on there motors enough and the gas goes stale and the needle -seat builds a layer of crud on it . specially if its a vac secondary , the mechanicals do not have as much of problems the gas keeps it fresh . ( one reason why I like the q jet as the fuel bowl is basically one chamber ( yes I know the cells for the secondary wells ) but only one needle and seat .
Put a pressure regulator on it!!!! Holleys only will survive with 5.5 PSI or less. any more and it will overpower the needle and seat and flood the carb.
The Jalopy Journal
