I am looking at fitting mustang disks on the front of my 63 Lark in place of the stock drums, the car has the stock single master cylinder on the chassis rail, I would like to use a tandem master cylinder from Wilwood [#wil 260 12900] a 7/8 that is designed for a 68/69 mustang disk/drum without power brakes, this master cylinder has side mounts that will let me mount it on the chassis rail in the stock position by drilling an extra hole thru the rail very much like the stock M/C. being right hand drive here in New Zealand it would be a big job to go to a hanging pedal and booster. the stock pedal ratio is 7.1 and the mustang pedal ratio is 6.1 so leverage should be no problem , has any one had a set up like this and found any problems, I dont mind a heavy pedal as the stock brakes are heavy now. I have driven non power disk/drums before and found them good, any help would be great Cheers
Don't know if this is any help, but I put a "Turner Disc Brake Conversion" on my '60 Lark wagon and used the original master cylinder, and it worked just fine....required a little leg muscle though!
Stude had discs stock in '64 they were not power and still used the jelly jar master. We have converted a few to dual master and never had a problem. I am using a willwood disc drum master on my currnt project and Studebaker discs on the front without power. I have used the willwood without power before, no problems.
The original Studebaker disc system was the same as the one Jaguar used .in their cars. I believe it was made by Dunlop. There is a lot of information over on the Studebaker Drivers Club website. I may be mistaken but I thought that the 63's master cylinder was on the firewall. Jim Turner at Turner Brakes can probably help you out.
I also used the Tuner kit on my '60 Lark wagon, it uses '67/'68 mustang rotors with a grease seal adapter. I also bought the dual master kit for it and it uses a dual drum jeep master with the stock pedal. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/another-one-yea-i-know.991847/#post-11203331
48Jeep is correct....Studebaker had them first in 1962 on the Avanti....standard on the 1963 Crusiers with the PB booster and single pot master cylinder - 65 up had the dual with this disk brake option.....the stock set up's I have taken off of parts cars will bolt on to both Lark and CK/Hawks back to the early 50's....really need to list some....
Hi 48jeep the New Zealand assembled cars are right hand drive with the same firewall as the left hand drive cars so on our cars the heater is in the way so the master cylinder is down on the chassis rail, there was no option for power brakes or disks or even power steer, all the 70 or so 63 model cars assembled here in 64 [mine was number 2] where 259 v8 with 3 speed manual with overdrive and hill holder. to assemble cars here there had to be a percentage of local content so the carpet and seat covers where local versions and NZ Firestone tyres and local paint. even the wipers sweep like a left hook car so we get a small unwiped spot on our drivers side.
Yes, 250 flathead 6. I realized after I posted that your car may have had right hand drive. Thanks for posting the information on your car. Jim Turner may still be able to help you.
Wilwood master will work like any other master as long as the bore size is correct for the application. Sounds like 250 flathead 6 is using the wilwood master because it has side mounts to go to the frame, since he's not hanging it from the firewall.
Nope a mast cylinder is just a pump. Willwood is just bragging rights. What kills you on brakes power or otherwise is pedal ratio and cylinder bore size. After that it is stroke length and if your actuator rod is long enough to engage the entire stroke of the master cylinder. but Bore and pedal ratio is the number one killer of brake systems. Follow this link it is a very simple explanation of how to calculate your pedal ratio and what you are shooting for. basically for standard brakes you are shooting for between 5:1 and 6:1 and on power brakes you are looking for something in the 4:1 range. http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how-to-series/correctly-calculating-pedal-ratio
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