how would a 1926 1927 ford roadster fit and look on a 1933 1934 ford frame? Any photos? I'm am sure the frame would at least need to be pinched. the front of the frame is more kicked upward than the 1932 ford frame.
I've never seen that combo before. Seems like it wouldnt work very well. 33 34 frames are curved everywhere. 26 27's are completely flat...
there's a reason no ones seen that combo before 34 frame has too long of a wheelbase and is quite bulky for a model A body you should go for it anyway
I guess I could make the assumption this is to be a fenderless roadster andthat you at least have access to the 33-34 frame or you would not be considering the build. In which case, you could make it work. Probably by using Model A cross members and 33-34 side rails. The exposed side rails might not be as stylish as the 32 side rails but you can make most anything work. I've been building a seriously modified Model A frame for my full fendered 26 T for a few years now...
I think you might be better off starting with a Model A frame. I think the '33-'34 frame would be a lot more work than it is worth. The '26-'27 T frame is too weak to use as a starting point. You might want to study this web site it shows frame dimensions: http://wescottsauto.com/SubIndexes/Techindex.html Of course given enough time and money you can do about anything. Charlie Stephens
I had a friend do one but the cross members had to be narrowed I will see if I can find any pics. It did look awesome
They used to use those type of frames in 30s racing applications where the rules stated that you had to start stock frame rails such as the car pictured below. By the time they were done the frame was usually fairly unrecognizable and later the rules were changed.
Well the deuce frame is a typical conversion but I can see that if you worked with it a model 40 frame may be a way to go. "Work with it" being the operative term here. I would not be beyond trying it if that was what I had to work with. Probably take lots of modifying to make it work though.
You can definately make anything work if you throw enough effort into it and I'm not convinced it would look bad either. 32 looks awesome...and 33/34 isnt THAT far off in side profile. Shortening it to a good wheelbase is about the simpliest thing to do. Just wondering though, if it might not be worth selling an original 33/34 frame to someone who needs it for a 33/34 and buying the much cheaper A frame and running with that? As far as that goes...it might actually be cost effective to buy 32 side rails and make custom crossmembers. Just a thought.
Actually if you really wanted to go old school a T on an A frame was pretty common and works really well. There probably been more Ts on deuce rails built since the turn of the century than there where ever built by real rodders back in the day. But you seldom see Ts on A frames built by the newstalgia crowd. The A chassis is a good wheel base too, 108" is right there.
Blacky's T was on an A chassis if I recall ( I got an article here somewhere) and it was all chromed. The deal at one show was that him and his buddies rolled up on its side about every hour so that everyone could see the underneath, a kind if a spit roadster deal. I guess that was before anyone knew about mirrors. LOL Damn it larry you made me get a tape out, correct 103" sorry bout that.
well then he could have saved a lot of time and started with one instead of modifying the A frame to look like one
I was or am going by memory from an article I read, I could be wrong about the chassis and obviously am. Here are some old pics of the original before the rebuild. and the spit roadster special He was a very interesting man for sure. Miles ahead of any of us I think well at least miles ahead of me.
The actual wheel base of an A is 103.5". Here is a rundown of wheel base on the transverse spring cars. Model T wheel base 100" Model A wheel base 103.5" Model B or 18 wheel base 106" Model 40 wheel base 112" 35-40 wheel base 112" 41-48 wheel base 114"
Wow you know, and the irony is, this was the only car to ever tie for AMBR. The car it tied with? A T-coupester built on a '41 MERC FRAME!! And worse yet, BOTH of these rubes had the temerity to do something NO self-repecting HAMBer would EVER do nowadays, they compounded their crimes by (horror of horrors!!) welding the doors shut!! Of course, these poor unfortunates didn't have the benefit of the HAMB to steer them away from committing such atrocities of bad taste when THEY were building these rolling faux pas. No-one warned them of the perils of building a T on anything other than Model A or deuce rails. Nowadays we know better, such things would never be tolerated...
Blackie's Shish Kebab special is mounted on a '34 chassis and moulded to the body. T on '34 chassis, with work it is possible.
A buddy of mine bought. A 27 t roadster that had been widened 4 inches and six inches at the cowl to fit a 1934 ford frame . It looked like a 1927 ford brick ! Hideouse !
I know of a Mustang that was "Pro/Streeted" by widening the body, roof and all, right down the middle. The guy didn't know how to narrow a rearend. Sounds like both these builders picked up on a workable idea...but totally missed how to apply it properly.
The body that was widened I mention earlier is now mounted on a 1938 willys frame ( roadster was started in 1949 , and not finished till about 15 years ago ..... Chopped windshield hot rod fenders 1918 maxwell grills shell two carbs on a hand made intake , 1938 willys four banger studi trans with overdrive the cowl was sliced 2" in width To put the car back in proportion ! I would post a photo , but how ???
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